FPS and Accuracy

Awesome, some great information and certainly allot to digest there.

Starting to notice there’s a few similarities between getting a firearm to shoot the way you want and a gel blaster to do the same. Both seem to require some trial and error, trips to the range (or back yard), ammo testing and so on. In saying that sometimes you get lucky and things just work.

RokSolid appreciate your post with the Bradley Phillips YT references.

An M90 spring is in the post which was ordered before reading about the uneqeal springs, I’ll have to keep that in mind for the future. Again appreciate that nugget of knowledge.

Coincidentally I happen to own that hop-up you linked however I believe the wrong tongue is installed. Its the older style with the narrow cut outs. My son has the Aztech Hellfire on his blaster so we can try that on mine too. I cut 8mm off his barrel to get the hellfire to fit properly.

When the M90 spring arrives I’ll swap that out, fix the hop-up to the correct Tongue and see how I go.

To the man cave…

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This is the way… :wink:

Sounds like us with gel blaster upgrades…

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Random thought did you deburr the inside of the barrel when you cut 8mm off. Even a microscopic burr will throw everything out the window.

Copy that, used some 600 grit

Some spring testing

Testing AG1.18, AG 1.28, SHS M100 in CYMA M4 - no mods except handle, foregrip and muzzle hop-up. 2 week old AKA blacks graded below 7.35, starting to develop flat spots. 11.1V battery. 16rps

New springs

Note difference in length of new springs

AG1.18

AG1.28

SHS M100

Springs didn’t make any difference to accuracy. AG1.28 and M100 travelled about 2M further than AG1.18 and had flatter trajectory

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These are the shit for deburring and chamfering barrel ends after pipe cutting…


Two second operation with a cordless drill, for when time is money. :wink:

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The shiz, been destroying P&N tools for 26 years and still counting :point_left: :pinched_fingers:

Yeah, can associate with @Maiphut about these de-burring tools.

Wasn’t life great back in the old days when we could spend good money on buying British/Japanese quality equipment :ok_hand:

Nowadays the same original old school tool makers are all getting their products made in China……… and there’s very little industrial quality stuff available on the market anymore :frowning:

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Seems that way. The quality stuff is still out there though :+1:

P&N or Sutton… I avoid anything made in China if I can.

There was a time when steel tooling items were made from decent material and if they were black they were nitride coated… like gun barrels, etc.

The last set of turning tools I got from ebay (carbide insert holders) arrived and almost went straight in the bin.

I swear they were made of mild steel, painted black not nitride coated, which included the screws and clamping blocks that were definitely not high tensile.

I guess you get what you pay for. :person_shrugging:

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Yea, used to use Sandvik 20yrs ago. They were not cheap but quality for all mill/lathe tools.

Supervisor would bust a left nut when you cooked a carbide tip trying to finish machine heat treated tool steel for a die. Slow down but hurry up :laughing:

Just remembered we have an RCBS case deburring tool that would have worked better than the sandpaper, or at least be easier to use. Nevermind, next time

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Give it a shot next time… :+1:

I’m sure it won’t be the last inner barrel you chop up. :laughing:

That’ll do it, perfect :+1:

I always used those brands, as well as Sandvik right up to this very day.

Unfortunately Sutton stuff had gone down the plug hole and is no better than whatever cheap Chinese crap is available in the local hardware store :frowning:

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Sutton… they used to be good. Maybe they shifted place of manufacture to compete with prices like a lot of companies.

Looks like a good place to buy from TURNING TOOLS LATHE TOOLS HSS CARBIDE INSERTS PCD CBN INSERTS - Engineered Tooling Pty Ltd

dang they haven’t got any cheaper for those swedish buggers.

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Pretty good range of tool holders, prices aren’t too bad.

I do bugger all machining these days, so quality stuff will definitely last my lifetime. :+1:

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Used to be a knowledgeable fellow on the GBF that knew the ins and outs as he sold tools. Would have been good to have the input on this subject. Oh well.

Downgrading to an M90 spring has knocked the FPS down to 300-310. I’ve put the correct tongue on the ihobby hop up as well and done some more testing but unfortunately the accuracy is still pretty woeful. I’d say 2m spread at 25m.

Put my son’s Aztec Hellfire hopup on which saw an improvement of maybe 1.5m spread at 25m.

Have tried 4 types of gels and results were similar so I feel as though it’s the setup and not the gels.

I’ll do that barrel cylinder measurement at some point and see what that looks like

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As a general rule, we usually check grouping accuracy with gel blasters using full auto or burst fire… which means all that vibration will transfer to anything loose and gels will be all over the place. I’ve found 90% of accuracy issues I’ve had have resolved with a bit of work on a solid setup.

VE is important, but once you get over a certain length with the inner barrel, you’re pretty much stuck with what you get, dictated by rhe cylinder size. Bad VE can be improved with tighter bores, porting, etc but on something like an M16A1, M14EBR or L1A1 with a long barrel over 50cm you’ll never get optimal VE.

For what it’s worth, I’ve built blasters with what should be appalling VE and they’ve been very accurate. I’ve also built some with perfect VE and they haven’t been accurate at all. It’s a bit of a crap shoot. :person_shrugging:

Keep plugging away, you’ll get there.

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