Great stuff, was thinking must be something to do with the cut off lever or maybe the springs that run it can give trouble on higher voltage.
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I dunno how Ray has them so cheap, but I am glad he does 
They are a JG works full metal. Great value. I have seen a few with semi not functioning out of the box, all were the trigger switch trolley, swap that out and they have been good. They all double tap on 11v, its a JG v2 box thing. Best way to fix it, is get a better piston and a m90/m100 spring… hell if you’re feeling game I have done many with m110, though that will limit fields you can use it at, and I would recommend an aoe pad, as I have seen a few blow the front of the gearbox off. To that end I aoe pad all the ones I do as standard.
They do have a great motor, 13:1 with an m100, shorten the tappet spring and good quality piston, you will have around 24-25 rps, and 330-340 fps, and a very nice responsive and reliable semi. And best of all, there is no air seal work to do as that is great.
Great starter blaster, and really good, with just a spring, piston, 13:1 gears, aoe pad, and shorten the tappet spring, put the deans on the right way, and they are phenomenal performers, for very little money. I’ve long lost count at how many friends and friends of friends of done this for now!
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Hi , great info , did you only replace the trigger trolly only , did you leave the selector plate in place ,with the electrical tabs and contacts , or did you replace the whole switch , other wise I’ll do the mod’s you suggested , other wise it’s a fantastic blaster . Cheers Clyde .
I’m lucky enough to own a few and have worked on many, in two of mine I have replaced the trigger block with t238 so had spares… I only replaced the trolley not the switch. They are pretty standard so you could likely just replace the trolley leaving the block there.
I have replaced the entire trigger block and trolley with an SHS item aswell, only requires wire to be connected to the new block, you can leave the original selector plate with no issue.
You will lose the electrical disconnect portion of the safety selection. Honestly probly not a bad thing as it is really just one more point of failure, only upside to keeping it is if there is a short selecting safe will cut off a portion of the circuit. In my experience though the short is usually in the buffer tube area so it’s not really removing the main risk.
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Cheers ROKSOLID , IVE A FEW TRIGGER BLOCKS , FROM MY ACR J1O , WOULD THEY FIT ??
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I am actually mid build of something with a JG v2 box atm, and have some j9/10 blocks, will have a look at some point today or tomorrow for you. I can’t say as its been a while since I fixed a j9/10 trigger block, but I do remember they were fussy with aftermarket triggers and can’t remember if it was the location of the trigger block or just the trigger was different, from memory a gen9 trigger is a hair longer, but I think the block itself is the same… I’ll get back to you.
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Cool, thank you, I’ve purchased a SHS trigger switch/ block as well .