In my experience they are the only drums that kept up with the performance of their stick counterparts!
And totally acceptable as their stick mags hold stuff all gels!
In my experience they are the only drums that kept up with the performance of their stick counterparts!
And totally acceptable as their stick mags hold stuff all gels!
That’s what I found, was some guy said nope they are crap and don’t work. I said oh well must have got a dud as highly recommend them for more gel capacity for game day. Less reloading with the stick mags etc.
Robust Nylon? I think too so good for a bit of bump and scrape.
When the Wells kicked off, I was all over those drum mags too, dare I mention Wells LMAO. They work fine for me, Pop the window open and pour your bottle in on the fly and slayed my mates son that was being cheeky. Ohh that’s not fair, you’ve got endless gel supply.
Good times. Mates son got me square in the rear end, right here comes the pain train kiddo haha.
The wells drums worked well too actually.
It’s more the gen8 mag pattern drums that suck.
Purely as they just aren’t as universal as a gen8/SLR mag is. All my m4s have no issue taking gen8 and SLR mags, yet both those drums fitted say 6 out of 10 on average.
Sure I could mod to suit, but then I’ll likely lose the gen8/SLR mag compatibility.
And further since nearly all my stuff is higher than stock rof, it is a plus to give them a rest while reloading stick mags!
I had some friends with those double drum Gen 8’s and they had no end of troubles wouldn’t feed even 3/4 full. I never bought them after I see them fail on game day and a lot of others mentioned it here on the forum.
Haha yeah they were the worst… primarily because they had slower intermediate gear type but also had a dirty great resistor in them… remove that they were better, replace motors with high speed and they were ok.
They were a convenient design, but get real sick of pulling them apart before a game to clear out all the shrunken gels!
All I’ve got to say is yep. I got sick of it. Burnt a heap, here’s how you fix it
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Another week, another video!
Thanks BME for letting me review this.
There is another video for this on Sunday.
Back to one video a week for at least a month after that as I won’t be in the country for much of that month!
That’s the one I’ve been waiting for, matey ![]()
interesting point on the Si-jun blowback…
it can be " disabled".
cocking lever all the way back, and locked up.
Ejection port opens, and stays open.
No more cycling upon firing…blowback disengaged.
cocking lever forward, and it reengages.
So, it has a nuetral posn.
Weird…!
That is interesting. I wouldn’t run it like that if I were you though.
Can’t imagine it would do that cocking spring a lot of good being fully stretched all the time. You might find that if you did that a lot when you did release your cocking lever it’d stop somewhere short of fully forward and rattle around. ![]()
You know what Chinesium springs are like. ![]()
I’d prefer the springs to sag than the charging handle to break- which MP5s of all types are notorious for!
And TBH, MP5s have the best most reliable blowback. That doesn’t say much for blowback, but the fake bolt is very well contained and guided, and not too heavy.
When someone says they want a good performer that has blowback, the MP5 is my top recommendation. …well my top recommendation is to not worry about blowback!
I never really touch the cocking handle on my MP5s.
The “H&K” slap’s a great way to guarantee eventual breakage, won’t happen overnight Rachel, but it will happen… and if it doesn’t function as a mag prime I see no point other than a bit of theatrics. ![]()
I’d prefer to have it held tight at the front looking cool than broken or stopping a half an inch short.
But one man’s meat, etc, horses for courses and all those other platitudes. In this hobby, you do whatever trips your trigger… literally. ![]()
Stuff it…
Two little videos today! I fly out for a holiday next weekend and will be mostly offline for a few weeks excluding hotel wifi. I have videos scheduled until I get back so have some bonus content for the long weekend (not for me I have to work tomorrow!)
The first is a preview of something I’ve been tinkering with and slowly piecing together for a few weeks. Bit of a show off session lol.
It’s going to be painted, just waiting for the paint to arrive. It will also be only the third blaster I have painted so will no doubt be an experience!
The second is the SiJun MP5 upgrade… which is not something that warrants its own episode, but it’s the opposite of showing off my skills.
You’ll see!
Lazy Sunday Arvo, and this pops up on the tubes…
Where did cranky Rok come from…!??
You need some threaputic styrofoam, to vent…!!
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And seriously…who needs 340 Fps from a MP-5…?
I can hear @Friendly_Fire yelling…
“You lose your accuracy after 280 fps…stick with the M-90!!”
Who would want a M-100??
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Looks like i owe you a choccy milk, for the lost bark on the fingers…!!
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Makes for a good budget, easy upgradeable MP5-SD…now the LDT’s are no longer…
Thought it made for funny watching anyway, so went full send on the cranky character ![]()
It does cranky pretty hard on the M100!
M90 and the hopup would make it a perfect cqb blaster.
Really didn’t want to ham out the suppressor threads to “fix” something that wasn’t broken, and quite a shame it is that way.
Could probably drill a couple holes into the rear suppressor cap to fit a angle grinder disc change tool or armourers wrench into, but again, a lot of work to fix something that isn’t broken and really is working and sounding quite good as is!
That and MP5 blowback is the least risky of all AEG blowbacks.
I’ll have to watch out, for cranky Rok…
Start packing some heat, for the murder alley meet ups…!!
Wait-a-minnit…i’m usually bringing enough…!!
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The good news is, the Sijun MP5K will come apart, so much easier…!!
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See how that blowback disabling actually works…!!
All the videos I found on the MP5 and K models were quite easy, with the barrel and muzzles all being easy to grasp and remove with our tools.
It might also be a one off that this one is super tight on there, others may be easier to remove… sample size of one and all ![]()
If that SD was mine I’d be drilling two holes into that front end cap and making up a spanner to wind it off.
I suspect it already has them and some numbnuts in the factory’s wound it on upside down on assembly. ![]()
Other way would be a couple of shallow flats in either side to accomodate a custom C spanner.
Inevitability Beemer’s going to see a drop in performance when the o ring suffers from sitting around being unused.
That’ll force the issue of finding a solution to the “Bastards Inc.” threaded cap design shitstorm. ![]()
Is she single? Hook a brother up
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HAHA @RokSolid I’ll get the fucker apart. 9" angle grinder and a hammer. ![]()
Catching up on some of your vids. Funny as, I had a backfire again, missed the keyboard and screen this time. I was slightly prepared.