Context: ARP9 running an LDX Expert with all the works, microswitch levi, 12:1, m110 and a DOG 26tpa running at around 33rps. Recently switched out the apache for a different nozzle because the apache just eats gels.
But the new nozzle is giving me problems. Apache seemed to feed just fine but would shred gels, whats the best way to go about troubleshooting feeding issues, I know the mag is trying to feed but it’s just not working in the tpiece. Have no clue what to check first, maybe the tpiece is the wrong size now, the nozzle isn’t moving well enough, tappet is being shit etc.
Might sound weird, but I had some bad feeding issues with an ARP9 a while back that turned out to be the mag motor feeding too fast and jamming up the t-piece.
With that 30+ ROF, I don’t think it should be an issue, but might be something else to check out?
I only discovered it by priming a full mag on the bench, then inserted into the blaster, no mag prime activated, then simply fired a single shot in semi.
Removed the magazine and gels were jammed up in all sorts of places after a single shot!
Repeated this process a few more times and got the same results.
Short Full Auto 2 second burst was better, but still had gels jamming in the t-piece.
Swapped out mag motor from another old spare I had laying around and it fixed the issue.
Not saying that this is your exact problem, but might pay to test it out being the same model blaster that I had these problems with……possibly why the APACHE was chewing gels as well
Are you using ultra hard gels or lesser strength gels, Apaches are kind of known to smash gels unless they are ultra hard.
The new nozzle, if it is a double o-ring try removing one of the orings, you don’t need two, the second one helps to keep it straight, but generally speaking has significantly more friction and will bind in higher rps slowing the nozzle from returning to sealed position. Also if you are in the 30rps region, trim the tappet plate tail enough so it doesn’t touch the shaft of the sector gear.
Also worth checking is that the tappet plate moves freely, best practice is to assemble the gearbox without the cylinder assembly and return spring, tighten screws and just wiggle the gearbox, the tappet should move freely back and forth with no resistance.
You didn’t mention if it was the HLF or the XYL, but I will assume for both. XYL is a prick as it kind of uses its own proprietary nozzle and tip, you will have to get one that fits, and put the stock tip on it. I think the SLR nozzle, with the xyl tip works but its been a while since I played with one.
The HLF is easier as it is close to the LDT style nozzle, but with a larger rubber tip, again, use a nozzle that seals well, and moves easily on the cylinder head, and use the stock rubber tip glued on to be the same length. This sucks sometimes, and is the reason I have heaps of nozzles
Lid off. How long in submerged water? Sometimes depending on brand you only need 2.5hrs.
Then out of water drain them off in a sieve/colander whatever you can get your hands on then run them softly through a tea towel lightly to get excess water off.
Then put them in a plastic coke bottle/spring water bottle that is empty and seal that lid air tight. Store in fridge door. Do not freeze. Do not leave outdoors in sunlight or heat. Air will make them shrink as they dehydrate.
