Looks like they have done a “wells”. Shorter cylinder and longer cylinder head to accommodate the extra tappet travel gel needs over those… “traditional” V2 gearboxes.
The old cylinder is 70mm, new one is indeed 72. I’ll take 2mm off over the weekend.
wtf is going on there, I said file not a 9" 
The belt sander/disc sander combo may have been too aggressive 
In all seriousness though I thought a piece of stainless would be fine. $30 Lesson learned!
Order that green og one, that will be the right size and save stuffing around 
Got the green cylinder which fits no problems.
I’ve started with the new 18:1 gears and set the pinion to bevel gear mesh using the half shell method on Youtube.
After that the spur and sector gear went in, using the shims from the original gears. I’ve screwed the gearbox back together tightly and found that I cant spin the gears, but the sector gear has about 1mm of side to side movement.
I would have thought if there was so much side to side movement that they would rotate very freely, not bind up.
Appreciate any suggestions from here? I do have a set of shims on hand if needed.
No gears are ever exactly the same, and no gearboxes are either for that matter, if they were we wouldn’t need shims- but nothing is perfect, there are no specs and tolerance standards in this game!
Once you have set motor height, and shimmed the bevel gear, remove it from the equation.
I then do “parameter shimming” on each gear. Basically starting with the spur, then the sector (order doesn’t matter); add/remove shims until there is as little movement as possible side to side, but they spin freely. Only do one gear at a time.
Once the parameter shimming is done, re-install the bevel gear, and spur gear. screw together and check shimming between them, adjust until there is good teeth contact, but they don’t rub.
Now I leave a little more than “just enough to let light between the gears” like some do, because over time things can wear and move a little, and you don’t want them to rub.
bevel needs to be spot on, spur and sector around 70-80% teeth contact is fine.
Once bevel and spur are nice, move to the sector gear and repeat.
The best practice is to only change ONE variable each time you open and close the gearbox, that way you can backtrack, and identify what has changed.
Success!
It’s back together and seems to be working well. Between the forum members here, Low Guido and cyber triggers YouTube channel it was enough guidance to fumble my way through it.
Frustrating at times, oh boy was it frustrating but learned a hell of allot and I think I’d have to confidence to jump straight in and try to repair another if needed.
Thanks for all the replies
Edit. That anti reverse latch is a bastard
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Congrats mate! Hopefully it is a good while before you need to do it again.
The first one is always the hardest, every blaster has experience to be had and learning of some sort, I still learn things from some blasters 
I can’t possibly know it all, but I can try!
Great to hear. We all have to start somewhere and I know jackshit 
It is great fun though learning and having success isn’t it
Great hobby it is 
Just have to have patience and dedication. Great to hear it’s up and running.
Did I help at all… probably not
Always best to start with a basic sub 300FPS build to get the basics down before you go for the moon or whatever you want Plutonium, 88MPH Doc
Uh oh… thin end of the wedge.
Once you break the seal there’s no going back. 
Pretty soon you’ll be like the rest of us… tubs of spare parts everywhere, offcuts of inner barrel rolling around under your feet, bits of broken gel all over the place.
Or if you’re anything like @RokSolid a room full of disintegrated styrofoam… some of it floating around in your coffee cup. 
err wait until you see my place
Bit like shit from arsehole to breakfast time is a good description
Takes me half a day and a few kilometers to find my tools some days. Where the f did that go. Oh there it is hours later, right now I can get on to it.
Or the other one a tool or part falls off the tractor and I only notice it later that day. Uh oh, then find it rusted to f 3 years later in the paddock. Ooops
All part of the fun, keeps you fit that’s for sure… like when you run out of fuel and you are 6klms from home in 45c weather with no one to help. That gets your steps up for the whole week let alone a day
Yeah the first one was certainly a hurdle.
I have an Noveske that got pulled apart last night to remove the “upgraded” tappetless cylinder head that was horribly inaccurate. Stock parts went back in and its working just fine now
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Thin edge of the wedge alright! I have an SLR ION with a 4.5"barrel that I’d like to investigate short stroking.
Speaking of tubs of spare parts, I did have to do a Bunnings run to organise my bits and pieces better, so it has begun
Yes mate your post’s definitely helped
No crazy builds planned, for where we play 26-28 RPS is about the sweet spot.
I would love to try a dedicated long range build though, 28 RPS, 300 - 320 FPS, relatively lightweight, full metal, fast trigger response. Its on the to-do list 
Sounds like an ETU might be in order next time
T238 seems the go these days. I used to use Perun but they have fallen by the wayside today with better options, availability and cost from T238.
Says me that still hasn’t had time to put his T238’s in. Although Roksolid knows they are very good.
Welcome to the downward spiral mate
Investigate short stroking with 27rps and 310-320fps… I have a video coming this Friday Arvo just for you, and everyone
I’ve done countless builds 30+rps and builds with 380+fps… and my favourite sweet spot is around 310-320fps, around 25-27rps. Best sweet spot of ease of build, low maintenance, reliability, efficiency, range and accuracy.
Best of all it still sounds faster than most, but it won’t send the enemy team running off elsewhere on the fields so it is still fun for everyone.
T238 ETUs have been my favourite for a long time as they are good value and their support and improvements over time does keep getting better.
And their blue brushless motors are outstanding value.
Perun is more durable but can be quirky.
Leviathan is overpriced for what it is.
We don’t talk about gate. Dogshit.
Eshooter seems to be popular but, I prefer t238.
I will have some LDT ETUs soon to test… and I do have a heap of gearboxes with them but so far haven’t had a chance to experience them and test them out… Too busy fixing BMEs stuff
That everyone is me. Look forward to it and something I asked you about a year ago.
Then god invented Beemer …
Epic timing, I look forward to watching that
Do you ever open up gearbox’s to give blasters a “service” Or do you typically wait for tell tale signs that it needs some love?