So I’ve blown my plastic gearbox in my CYMA up when running an 11v…to be expected.
Now I have my all metal GBX I’m keen to run an 11v in it.
It’s a metal gearbox, so should be all good…??
Thoughts…??
Not all metal gearboxes are tough construction… the early Nwell boxes broke quite often due to no radius in the corners at the nozzle end… all four corners should have a radius to spread the load and prevent cracking at those stress points. Spring size plays a big part too… go huge and anything will break eventually.
Not sure what GBX use but if there’s sharp corners in yours I’d be breaking out the dremel and doing it for piece of mind. Then you should be pretty much good to go. 
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Should be fine on 11.1V as long as everything is stockish and in good condition
Remember that 11.1V simply means that the ROF will be increased and nothing else.
Many new players have been misinformed into thinking that 11.1V turns their stock blaster into a fully sick modified high FPS monster blaster……. but that’s far from the truth as we all know.
I’ve had a few blasters where the higher ROF upset the tappet/nozzle timing and air pressure in the stock pistons/cylinder heads that led to WORSE performance over the 7.4V !
The higher ROF caused double feeding issues, jamming, confetti, lower FPS and all sorts of weird issues…… all which could be fixed with a bit of modding, but hopeless in the stock blasters.
It’s all trial and error, but the only thing 11.1V does is speed up the gearbox still working with the same stresses of the stock springs and gears etc……. and will mainly just wear everything out quicker than 7.4V 
Funnily enough I’m moving away from 11.1 back to 7.4v on a lot of my gear. Just not up for the pursuit of the higher ROF, I’m definitely no speedy boy 
A slower ROF suits certain blasters better anyway. Can’t abide an AK running flat chat on 11.1v, sounds like a chipmunk compared to the real thing. 
Totally agree with you mate!
I did love building higher ROF speedy boi’s, but they were the small CQB/9mm/SMG model blasters that suited those brrrrrrt fire rates.
My M4/AR/ACR/AK etc style blasters were always built to a standard type ROF with just much higher FPS, where 11.1V was only needed to run higher rated springs with low speed high torque motors without stressing a 7.4V battery under constant load.
What I really enjoyed was purposely building the medium/heavy machine guns with a slow ROF and as much mechanical noise as possible 
There’s nothing more satisfying than the old slow clanking of a heavy machine gun!
7.4V, heavier modified “short” springs, pistons, cylinder heads and a plethora of heavy metal parts in all the right places had those particular model nylon toys sounding like a blacksmith hammering out a new set of horse shoes 
GBX should run 11v no worries. The versions of JG M4A1 sell come with no battery or 11v, and are all regarded as “can run 11v” blasters.
My experience is that their pistons while not being great are a much better point of failure than anything else, and can easily be upgraded to an SHS or similar piston if they fail.
Keep in mind, most that had a failure in piston, also had numerous ultra hard gels jammed in the barrel, and as the JG have a really good air seal, a jam will slow the return of the piston enough to cause issues if you try to clear a jam by pulling the trigger. A proper m90, or larger spring will make this issue occur less, but the cast gears, are always a lottery and my not handle the larger spring.
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