Ge gbbr m4 mod 1 93m , inner barrel length

Hi , I’ve been trying to find out my inner barrel length it’s a GE 93M , M4 , GBBR . Have emailed various retailers, no answers yet, I measured length at 22cms [ while insitu, ] . Any one out there knows the proper length?.

I think most retailers sell 24cm barrels intended for the CQBs and 34cm for the full carbine length, right? Sometimes 45cm for a full rifle? I’d start there, then cut as needed, probably.

1 Like

I was looking for a s/s barrel, I was amazed how short this gbbr barrel is , especially looking down the barrel and seeing the hopup .

Mate stainless steel barrels are rubbish. Personally my GE bog stock is exceptionally accurate. 50mm grouping at 10m and dinner plate at 25m. I didn’t even need to adjust the hop up.

Every stainless steel barrel has ruined accuracy on any of my blasters in the past. I personally feel you are going through a lot of effort and wasting money and won’t see any performance gain.

1 Like

Ok , just experimenting, the airsoft GE inner barrel 26mm , the Australian gbbr inner barrel is 22cm , must have some barrel length removed to fit hop up.

Yes well the hop up would be approx 40mm long I’d say so that would be right.
But if you really want to know pull the barrel out and check to be sure.

1 Like

Will do , not looking forward to it, but theirs lots to learn . Cheers

1 Like

The barrel with its integrated hopup is one of the best things about this blaster. There’s so much else wrong with it that I’d recommend starting on, especially the gas efficiency.

1 Like

Give it to us Bradley :wink:

I mean I have no issue with the gas efficiency on the GE as I only use semi and find with 30rds in a mag it’s quite senseless to use auto. Double taps are the way to go in game.
But in so saying the GM MWS is entirely different beast to the GE cycling on auto way faster and more efficiently. The GM you could get away with leaving on auto and using single trigger pulls activating bursts of auto. The GE doesn’t cycle on auto like that at all.

Interesting perspective re the barrels. I myself have had success with both alloy and stainless as I’ve mentioned before. The real benefit I was seeing was upgrading from a shit standard barrel to one with a nice finish makes the difference.


Yeah I can only report what I have found and excluding GBB pistols I find 7.3mm barrels dramatically reduce accuracy. I have on many many occasions with multiple blasters trialled stainless and due to them being 7.3mm or sometimes smaller in diameter, back to back performance vs a quality 7.5mm barrel is sub par. In fact so poor I cannot understand why people recommend them.
And before anyone says anything this is with graded gels and VE adjusted for barrel ID tested over a 25-30m distance.

1 Like

Where were you sourcing 7.3mm SS barrels from? Out of interest. I used the CHGBB barrels upon old members’ recommendation and they were a great improvement in accuracy and FPS with matched VE. They measure true 7.3mm ID.

1 Like

I’ve used them, 2 different types from x force and randoms off eBay.
Personally I put it down to being 7.3mm more as opposed to barrel material.
From my experience the following is the most important for consistent accuracy at 25m +
Quality hop up
Braced and stable inner barrel
Ensuring no curvature of the inner barrel
Inner barrel properly finished at both ends.
Stable outer barrel
Magazine quality or matching the magazine to the motor/battery output (amazing how times accuracy has picked up or dropped by change magazine manufacturers)
Gearbox is properly secured (especially in builds that do not have a buffer eg LDT Scar and MCX)
Matching spring and motor if using a mosfet (overrun plays havoc with accuracy)
Nozzle and cylinder stability

Things that I have found don’t favourably affect accuracy
Tight bore barrel or 7.3mm barrels
Longer barrel length over 10.5” barrel set ups
Stainless steel barrels (but quality barrel is important)

On the note of VE I don’t feel it’s as critical as what is often made out. In honesty I have found generally my best set ups are so widely outside the range of the usual calculators that I generally ignore them. But I do believe there is merit in matching inner barrel length to cylinder volume. I will port cylinders when running sub 300mm inners - with my rattler build having a custom ported cylinder because it was so short I couldn’t get a cylinder ported low enough for what I wanted.

Anyway this is all my findings and everything needs to be taken with a grain of salt because I run on conservative builds chasing accuracy and durability vs high ROF and FPS.

It’s nice to have GBBRs because I can put all the motors and gearbox BS behind me.
However gas opens up new challenges. Currently waiting on a NPAS for my GM because I feel they have over gassed it for gels.

1 Like

Hi , 7.5 mm S/S. ID , 9.5 OUTER , test and see for my GE gbbr , tired of multi grow times .

Can I ask what your reasoning for changing the barrel is? You mention multiple gel grow times.
I have pearls and black labels that are 7.5mm feeding fine in the GE. I don’t believe it is a 7.3mm barrel. Now I I have to preface this that I have not measured the ID myself (largely because I have no reason to) as it’s a little awkward with my set up as I have a barrel extension and a MCMR 10 handguard on it making removing the hop up a little time consuming.

But I have 2 other friends that run the same blaster and they do not grade their gels and grow pearls for 2.5hrs with no feed issues.

I’m just trying to get my head around what you believe your net gain with going to a 7.5mm SS barrel will be?

Interesting. I run both 7.3mm SS for my longer blasters and 7.5mm and 7.6mm for the short barrels. No grading or any of that shit. Works for me. :+1:

Mind you for AEG, lol just realized this is GBBR which may be different :person_shrugging:

1 Like

I grade gels mainly to remove variables when testing. It also helps get tighter groupings but by grading gels I eliminate the doubt of whether the gel size inconsistency is affecting the build of a new blaster.
As it’s relatively quick to do I often do it for gaming as well and as a player I prefer semi auto double taps as opposed to auto bursts so again it often helps the confidence for longer range shots.
None of my blasters need grading for feeding other that the new GM MWS and it’s not the barrel it’s the hop rubber or mag lips. Not sure which. But if gels are greater than 7.3mm I’ll get a lot of shattered gels.

1 Like

Hi , jas, was only thinking about it weighing up , pros and cons, with use it’s firing better , and locking back , I was thinking about the tap water , being in north QLD might be crap for gel growth, and have grow some with bottled water to see .

1 Like

Well if it helps the barrel won’t assist you there.
Main reason the blaster doesn’t lock back for us is gel particles jamming up the system. This isn’t a result of the barrel ID as it’s inside the receiver itself. So it will typically be caused by the toughness of the gel (pearls are more prone to do this than black labels) and it breaking from the feeder or being broken whilst being loaded in the mags.
Shooting performance is affected from the gel size inconsistencies. It could be something as minor as larger groupings or with extremely hard gels like ultra elites they can jam the barrel. Even 7.5mm from time to time. Ultra elites can be terribly inconsistent in size. I generally avoid them.
Grading gels would have a greater affect than changing the barrel out.