I’ve sorted the issues and it’s chooching nicely again, except for one little thing with this nylon striker that screws onto the rear of the slide and acts as a wear block for the hammer.
The original one was broken and lost when I got this pistol, so I didn’t get a chance to measure it up. I knocked a replacement up out of scrap nylon because I couldn’t source a GE replacement anywhere.
With the block in the pistol’s a little undergassed, it hits hard enough but doesn’t seem to have enough grunt to cycle reliably and will often stop at half cock mid mag.
With it out it behaves like a GBB should. Cycles perfectly. My question is do I try to decrease the block thickness ( hard because it’s pretty thin now ) to get it right or take some meat off the hammer so it fully dumps the gas?
That’s weird, my old hicapa, (not being a ge though) doesn’t have one of these wear block and seem to cycle fine, wonder if this is just a ge thing, (mine is db)
I’m thinking you’re right… I thought they all had them.
Yeah, I think I’ll just leave it out. The problem with thinning it is that by the time you get down to what you need there’s not a lot of meat around the screw countersink and I’m thinking it’ll just break like to original one did anyway.
The original nylon block had a lug on the back of it that located into the counterbore on the slide and was held in with a screw… I do remember that much from what was left of it.
Must just be a GE thing… probably to save wear on the hammer. The thickness is obviously critical for it to function properly and I must have got it wrong.
Anyhoo, the screw’s back in minus the block and it’s cycling fine now.
I don’t have any first hand knowledge with those model pistols, but I do know that my GLOCK G18C full auto function was just a little switch that acted on the gas hammer mechanism that activated an extra catch lever to reset the gas hammer on every cycle, which in turn made it fully automatic until you released the trigger.
In semi automatic mode, the switch simply disingaged the gas hammer catch so that it would only fire a single shot by not resetting the hammer when the slide cycled back.
I would imagine that anyone with a bit of skills and tinkering could design and install a mechanical stop/lever to reset the hammer on each cycle to modify it to operate in full auto mode quite easily
From memory you had to grind a nub or remove a catch that would stop the slide after a shot preventing it from cycling again, so it was a permanent change rather than a switch.
As Doc said, with my AAP the switch just moves the nub out of the way of a catch allowing it to cycle continuously
Quick question on these Hi Capas for the GBB afficionados…
I recently bought a couple of new mag lips for two GE Hi Capa magazines… I was told at the time of purchase that I was breaking the lips because of my mag loading technique.
Apparently loading a mag with the slide forward was the reason why lips were breaking… I was told I needed to rack the slide back, insert the mag then release the slide.
Never heard of that before outside of reloading after an mag dump with the slide back anyway, so am I correct in putting this nugget into the bullshit recepticle or is there some truth in it?
I think the ones that broke were just old… they’re not a great design, really thin on the side the lock back slot’s on, which is where they seem to break.
I’d just never heard of having to lock back a GBB slide to put a mag in… sure, might look tacticool, but what a pain in the arse doing that every mag change.
If you’ve kept them lightly silicone oiled up they should be fine. The plastic is not holding up. Which does become brittle after some time no matter what expert tells you.
Nope you can’t rack it then stack it. Unless you are Deadpool
You’ve been told that because they could not be bothered replacing or maybe didn’t have any on hand.
One of the most recent batches of GE I seen has weak as mag lips, very brittle. Some were breaking with normal use after a few mags.
I’d be asking for some new mags lips, as older batches never had this issue.
Also it shouldn’t make any difference if the slide is racked or not before insertion (gigidy)
It should only slightly depress the balls into the mag on the loading nozzle, and that is normal operation.
but