Golden Eagle MK16 GBBR

GOLDEN EAGLE MC6637M MK16 9" KEYMOD
Will update this as I get time to work on it

Initial build quality is good, well weighted and balanced.
Magazines are a little tight but also don’t drop out freely if not seated properly which is probably a good thing.

Need to grow some hardened gels as my usual go to, X force pinkies, are a bit too soft and tend to break.


Hop-up is one of those LDT slim ones like what was on the MP5’s. Barrel looks to be brass and doesn’t look to be easily replaced, has a narrowed end that the bucking goes onto and a couple notches cut out that the “t-piece” clamps onto to stop it from rotating. Barrel itself is quite short so would probably rather lengthen that and use a muzzle hop-up.

The mag that came with it and the extra mag I got have different surface finishes, one is more smooth but the other has a bit more of a texture to it.

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Brass barrels are a PITA as they take a LOT of special care and maintenance to maintain their polished internal finishes. :face_exhaling:

Do they work, yes …are they solid, yes… do they improve performance over standard barrels…yes.

But unless constantly maintained, they will turn to shit REALLY quickly. :disappointed:

I have always recommended Stainless Steel over Brass or Alloy barrels, as they are the only material that can hold their highly polished internals with the most longevity over other materials. :ok_hand:

Ask me how I know :rofl: End of day it’s what you can get too. :+1:

Pulled the barrel out again today to see about fitting a longer one.


Used my better verniers, barrel is actually 7.6id.


Breach side ended up just being a notch cut into the barrel that a lip inside the bucking sits in to hold it in place, so pretty much anyone with access to a lathe could carve a notch into a standard barrel and file down two grooves either side for the locating tabs on the t-piece and it should fit no problem.

I had a length of DB 8.5od barrel left I thought might fit like the AAP does but unfortunately not, but I’ve printed out a spacer that should work.

Reassembled the bloody thing while it was printing for some reason and cbf pulling it apart again tonight.

Also replaced the buttpad with a MFT stock for more comfort. That pad has a little flick on the bottom and man does it sit in the wrong spot on your shoulder.

Been trying to model up a new t-piece clamp to use a standard barrel nut was having the same issue with the bucking and that groove, so tried to compensate by adding a taper inside to make room for the bulge of the bucking.

Today I discovered Ausgel barrels just fit the stock setup…The 3 grooves cut in the end match the groove for the bucking and the alignment grooves in the t-piece clamp…


Cycles and fires just fine, only issues were from the gels being funky, think I’ll still cut it down slightly though.

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Found one of my mags had a leak, no big deal, checked o-rings and lubed them up, still leaked, replaced o-rings, still leaked :thinking:

Can hear it leaking but it’s not from the fill or release valves, wondered if the reservoir had a crack, thought unlikely as it hasn’t been to a game or been knocked around at all. Go through the process of pulling the whole thing apart including undoing the knot for the draw string ( in hindsight this wasn’t necessary as there’s a notch carved out to slide the base plate off).

Get it apart to find this…



This makes no sense to me why they would machine it this way, they even had to drill through from the side to connect the two chambers then plug the exterior hole…

Evidently one of the o-rings on the plugs had broken so there’s the leak, only o-rings I had on hand that would fit were those brown ones, replaced both just in case and added some PTFE tape for good measure.

Reassembled and somehow managed to get the drawstring knotted again, not gonna say how long that took or how many new words I discovered…

Final result, a non leaky mag.
Just for anyone who has or gets one of these and has the same issue.

Those machined grooves are normally added wherever Alloy/Steel components are designed to be threaded into softer materials like nylon or plastic.

It’s to prevent the soft threads from getting locked up/stripped out. … but zero use for providing a gas tight seal!

mm could definitely do with an o-ring groove so it seats properly in the plugs.

Wouldn’t be hard to do if you had access to a lathe either. Guess they just skip that to keep costs down. :man_shrugging:

There was a very shallow groove on the plugs for the stock o-rings but those were like 0.5mm, with the tight tolerance of the plug holes having a thicker o-ring seems to seal a bit better as it seems to be sandwiched from all sides rather than just the top and bottom.

Also I don’t have access to a lathe, as helpful as that would be for other projects.

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Cool, yes my eyes aren’t so good these days :joy:

See how the better O ring goes might be all it needed :+1:

I too miss my lathe and mill. Been asking santa for awhile now, he’s not listening :rofl:

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