I have never bought any upgrade parts in kit form. parts bought individually, yeah.
If I had a buck for every nozzle/ cylinder head set where one or the other ended up in the parts bin because I got a better result using the OEM part, I could probably afford… well, I could probably afford an upgrade kit.
Completely agree!
The amount of times had tested expensive aftermarket dual o-ring Alloy cylinder heads and nozzles… only to get better results with the properly lubricated and sealed original Nylon parts!
I’ve learnt it is about what fits and works best… and sometimes plastic is better than metal… remember there was a brief period where metal tappet plates existed? Metal and plastic are both good when used in the right purpose.
I actually like nylon cylinder heads when they seal well, especially in a metal gearbox.
Yeah, I guess all it takes is a bee’s dick difference in the length of an aftermarket alloy nozzle body and another bee’s dick difference in the rubber nozzle and there goes your efficient airseal.
Hence why I stuck with Nylon all those years back pushing 430-450FPS out of Gen8 era experimental builds.
Nylon/Plastics absorb shock loads, metal doesn’t.
Alloys are more tolerant to shock loading than steel, but the whole bullshit aftermarket “performance” crap about Steel/Alloy being WAY superior in certain applications to Nylon/Plastics is not based on Physics… only marketing to sell more products for higher prices despite their terrible performance.
I used to think if I angle the spring tabs to get the forces pushing in the right direction the bastard won’t move.
But the trigger would still randomly pop out on it’s own and sit on rhe bench laughing at me as if some evil poltergeist was playing jackass jokes on me for his own personal shits’n’gigs.
Might try out shimmed metal gears and rack, upgrade cylinder head and nozzle, modified motor base plate for adjustablity. Milder piston spring than the M100 currently in it so the box case doesn’t crap out and warp. Maybe an M85 or M90 depending on how good I can get the airseal.
What’s the bet I end up putting the nylon running gear back in it?
The goal is low stressed reliability.
P.S. fixed up the drooping moderator by shortening the 14mmCCW thread on the outer barrel and allowing the moderator to seat correctly on the OB shoulder.
Location holes are totally different, the top head holes ar smaller and aren’t even round. Doesn’t go even close to fitting into the J9 box… for obvious reasons.
Yep, J9 box alright… even down to the metal threads into nylon, damaged insulation at the pinion due to bad routing and the random cuts in the super-soft silicone insulation everywhere.
Long story short, the blue cylinder head went in because of the location hole issue but also because the nozzle spigot was a few RCHs bigger in diameter than the gold one and gave me a better airseal.
Tried a metal trigger I had in my spares box and found out why it was there in the first place… slips on the trigger trolley. So back in with the plastic item for now.
Cut a slot in the left side of the gearbox so the wiring could be routed and glued well away from meshing gear teeth. Repaired all the damaged insulation with heatshrink.
The motor was never free in the grip so opened up the bore in the grip slightly to allow the spring to push back against the adjusting screw. Sounds much quieter now with the motor tweaked to the sweet spot.
All reassembled with the same M100 spring and showing pretty much the same FPS as before, a smidge under 300 at around 295-297FPS. But very consistent.
I’ll leave it at that for a while. Probably just enjoy it, maybe upgrade the 460 long to a better unit down the track.
Nice work on the motor plate and the wire tuck.
The wiring through there is very tight, good solution.
The j9/10 triggers are a smidge longer than a normal v2 trigger. Similar to SLR triggers, just slightly longer so you have to trial and error heaps of triggers to find one that works. PITA!
Interesting about the cylinder heads. I used to like the brass head and nozzles for Jin Ming as they worked well and fitted well.
Alot of the alloy and pom ones were just not quite right.
ACRs came with 460 long shaft motors like the M4s, yeah? Standard Gen 9 motor…
Reason I ask is because setting the nylon pinion was unbelievably touchy and with that M100 piston spring the inevitable happened… zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz catus pinion and bevel gear.
No biggie, I dug up a spare War interest long shaft with metal pinion, a set of 18:1 SHS gears and piston, that’ll be tomorrow’s job. But I trial fit the WI in the grip and realised it was a 480 long. It did fit neatly with the base plate screwed down home though, pulled the trigger and cycled perfectly with great pinion engagement too.
Now, I know metal to nylon is a huge no-no… I mean, I ain’t TacToys. It’ll be getting the full metal gear set tomorrow. I remember how much fun shimming a Gen 9 box is… not! so not looking forward to that.
Just thought it weird that a 480 would so easily fit like that though.
Same pinion/bevel problem with my metal geared ACR and red ChaiHi motor. Still have gearbox open on the bench because ACR is running really well with stock gearbox/motor and M100
Seems to fit into the grip just fine and cycles well. The shorter 460 motor puts the adjusting screw pretty far into the plate.
That means I’ll be running a Ch Hai red 460 short shaft in a Vector that should have a 480, and a War Interest 480 long shaft in an ACR that should have a 460 in it.
An 11mm drill will give you a perfect press fit into plastic for those inserts. Pity the thread’s not metric fine, but I guess we can’t have everything.
I’m one of those guys that stands in the middle of the shed and looks around thinking “there’s gotta be something in here I can use…”
There usually is…
I’ll be building the J9 box tomorrow so I’ll post my findings on how that 480 long motor fitment goes, but so far looks like no problem.