MK Tactical vector CNC gearbox

Mine shipped yesterday. Looks awesome and can’t wait to take a vector beyond the current limits of the polycarbonate box!


wow … that does look very trick

Damn… there’s some serious machining in that puppy. :exploding_head:

Be interesting to see how you go with this… I still have a soft spot for the old Vectors, they were good back in their heyday and a monster gearbox and better FCU in one would make them pretty competitive today. :+1:

Is that an integrated t-piece? Hope they made it the standard 9.5 barrel.

I imagine that thing costs considerably more than every other part of the vector together too.

Yep, at $350 it ain’t cheap… $150 more than the V2 box. :thinking:

Be a damn good Vector with that in it though… :+1:

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It is not, still uses the vector tpiece.
If you want to use a 9.5mm barrel, couple wraps of aluminium tape then epoxy it in.
I even did it with a wells 9mm barrel once and worked well as then you can use an oring to centre the inner barrel to the outer barrel nice and tight.

Yeah, WELLS barrels suck arse, but with something as expensive as an MK Alloy box, a suitable t-piece should be supplied as part of the whole package :roll_eyes:

I’ve had countless MK Boxes, along with many other expensive custom boxes such as Fighting Bear USA gear, along with UK produced stuff that is honestly only Airsoft gear that has been half arsed modified to include the Gelblaster market.

You can do the research, hand over a decent wad of cash, but still end up with a product that fails miserably in the specifications required to operate in a Gelblaster :frowning:

Being so heavily involved in building/modifying these things for my customers, as well as my own personal experimental projects, it became immediately apparent as to which products were actually suited to Gelblasters, and not just some high profile brands that were Airsoft based and sold onto the unsuspecting Gelblaster enthusiasts as being compatible for their requirements :rage:

Got it today! Yew!
Had half hour look and check over it and all the issues with the prototype I had have been sorted.
Checked a number of things out but really just spent the time marvelling at it.

I’ll keep you all posted on the build as it progresses.

I have a plan and idea of what I will use and what I want to achieve. 25-30rps, and make use of the easy spring change the vector has to to go from about 320fps, up to 380fps with a couple of springs to choose from.

Depending on the rate of fire I may even be able to have 290fps on the table if it’s closer to 25rps… but am using a motor that is new to me, so not 100% on the rps outcome, also not 100% settled on this motor so time will tell.

Either way, VERY excited to build it.

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380 FPS! Fck that :flushed:

I have a couple of MK Gearboxes though and can certainly share in your excitement about these sexy looking things! :hugs:

Only because it can haha.
This is my fifth MK box in my collection. They have always served me well.
If this one works out I will get another to kit out the other vector I have.

It’s very exciting for me, as this hopefully removes the limitations of the vector polycarbonate gearbox that has always plagued the vector owners.

Only potential downside it it makes it quite a bit heavier. I view it as a positive and don’t mind that as it also made it feels very sturdy compared to stock, but my wife my get sick of carrying it.

I only ever had a Hybrid and a V2 MK box, which whilst looking extremely sexy, I still went back to my poverty pack Singularly Gen8 Nylon boxes! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Singularity boxes are not poverty pack! And will always hold a special place in my heart… and a few of my blasters!

The H92 is a great gearbox to build. Very straight forward, gen8/9 cylinder head nozzle and tpiece and will see fantastically. The tappet design realistically limits you to a little over 30rps, but you don’t need above that, I once got 36rps out of one, but unless I serviced it after every game the fps would drop in full auto, and with a mosfet installed, having too much lube above it in the tappet area was not ideal.

The V2M I love, and loath at the same time. It is quite particular with nozzle tpiece and head choices. Kind of a will fit most things, but is a bit of a c*** do get it to do any of them well. Wells fit and work well, and cyma seems ok on the later versions. LDT is a bastard unless you run a fancy tpiece and change the nozzle length to suit. GBU of all places used to sell a alloy tpiece that worked a treat with a tap washer between the gearbox and tpiece. But I digress!

So far, it looks like the vector is going box to be a hit. Yet to see an issue with this version. The old prototype I was sent had a few issues and all seem to be ironed out.

My build is probably not going to be the first completed one out, apart from building the gearbox, I also will be fitting a T238 vector mosfet, and I have a full time and then some job, with a Saturday job, and I am away this weekend :frowning:
Timing is not good for me on this one, but I will chip away and likely have it running end of next weekend.

Little update:
Aftermarket stainless cylinders fit, and the cut outs mean you can use any length porting with no gearbox shell covering the port. Tpiece and nozzle all looks to fit well. Tappet plate sits beautifully, and does not need gluing zip tie pieces under it to prevent it diving under the sector cam as in the poly box.

Major notes: a v2 anti reverse, will need the nose shaved down a fraction to avoid contact with the pinion, as the standard vector box had the same issue. Couple minutes with a file will sort this.
Also the motor is apparently to fit a Lonex short shaft straight up, I don’t have one and the only short shaft I have will need the shaft shortened by about 2mm to avoid contact with the bevel ratchet points, and the pinion needs to be about 2mm further down the shaft, so a little shaving there is required.
TBH, an o-type pinion, and a long shaft motor you can cut down is probably going to be the easiest option. That way, just cut the shaft to length, and press the pinion down until it is right. I loathe o-type pinions, as there aren’t many options, and they often have a different profile and are a bit noisy. Also to remove them easiest way is to grind them off, and fit a new one! Anyway, small price to pay, and the standard vector box had a short short shaft that needed all this fart around anyway, so all just part of vector modification.


I’ve only ever built one Singularity box up. I remember being pretty impressed, definitely a huge upgrade on the nylon JM Gen 8 shell.

I also remember they had a bit of an issue with the type of motor cage you could use with them. The black nylon JM cages didn’t seem to quite line up, I ended up using one of the older clear acrylic cages. :man_shrugging:

Wish I had that Singularity box in my Scorpion EVO3… there’s a monster Gen 8 in that but it’s running with the standard gearbox shell.

If you want another Singularity Gearbox Shell kit, I’m sure I can find a brand new one in my pile of spare parts boxes :+1:

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Little update.
Shortened my short shaft motor by a little, got the pinion set at correct spot and Loctited down.
Though the motor is a very tight fit there was a little torsional movement allowed… couple pieces of aluminium tape and now the motor is absolutely locked in place when the gearbox is closed.

Next will be to seat the rest of the bushes, which are VERY tight fit, same as all of MK boxes. Then onto shimming. Which is going to be a piece of cake as unlike the poly box there is plenty of room for shims on all gears.

Still very promising unfortunately has come to me on a busy week, and I am not home to touch it this weekend. But it’ll get there soon enough.

Great to see you’re picking up the small stuff that needs addressing… we all know the devil’s in the detail, miss something and kaboom! :wink:

It’s the sort of attention to detail you’d be hard pressed to find in 99% of the so called “techs” working in this industry.

Should be a really well set up reliable unit when you’re done. :+1:


Got me why he doesn’t back that tolerance off a bit. Must be some reason, no need to be that tight.

Yes, I used to heat up the shells in the oven and chuck the bearings into the freezer for an hour or so.

This worked a treat and the bearings would drop right in, then be a tight interference fit once the temperatures evened out.

Removing them on the other hand…………

Small sockets supporting the underside on the bench and a section of steel brake/fuel line to use as a drift around the outer race :ok_hand:

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Yes, why MK don’t sell many. 90% of blaster self maintaining people would not be doing and/or bothered what you say.

Doc’s way is definitely the best. :+1:

MK have made them a shrink fit instead of an interference fit… dunno why. :man_shrugging:

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