For anyone wanting metal mags. I think some mentioned problems with these before
LDT MP5 Metal Stick Mags Warinterest, Gel Blaster Parts – RPM Techshop
For anyone wanting metal mags. I think some mentioned problems with these before
LDT MP5 Metal Stick Mags Warinterest, Gel Blaster Parts – RPM Techshop
Only $5 and still making a profit at that!
I wouldn’t assume they are making a profit at $5. My guess is they are copping a hit on this just to get rid of them.
Dead stock is more of a cost to the bottom line than the loss taken up in the P&L.
Yeah for sure…… was just being a bit cheeky
I’m a business owner myself…… empty shelves at a loss is definitely better than shelves full of gear that nobody is buying
Ah gotcha. Missed the cheekiness
I was told when I purchased my mp5 the metal mags were no good for the ultra elites and those real hard gels. Stick to the nylon mags if running those gels.
Hi everyone, I installed the high torque motor and now the batteries are going dead faster than usual. Is that to be expected or is something else going on now?
More details required…… battery type, motor type, other internal/electrical mods
You have posted a great breakdown of your blaster, but not specific about the actual brand of MOSFET, battery brand and ratings or specs on which motor you ended up fitting.
Hi @DocBob ,
The motor and battery are as below:
For one you are letting your battery dangerously low. Balance charge that up before you blow up. That should be 11-12v for a 3 cell Lipo. Run them too low and they are fucked.
I have no idea if that charger you are using is any good or not. There are bad chargers and knock offs out there. Put a multimeter on your balance lead and test. If you don’t know how ask.
People have got to understand that Lipo’s are not AA batteries that you can throw around everywhere. Understand them, do your research, it’s all over the net and you’ll never have a problem. Unless you crash a 2 meter foamie from 200ft up and it crosses the wires, made a nice little fire
BTW that Xforce charger looks shit, it charges through the balance lead.
Genuine Skyrc imax B6AC V2 Balance Charger For Ni-Cd Ni-Mh 1-6S LiPo | eBay
Hi @Maiphut,
I always charge up fully before use, this is the reading when the motor stopped working.
I only got three and a half games in which is a lot less than usual from my battery.
Roger on the lippo care and I will look into chargers. My current charger is streets ahead of those usb ones that come with some batteries though. Lol
It’s all good, the USB ones that come with the blaster throw them in the bin. That X force one may aswell go in there too.
Lipos will push full power until they die for good from draining them too low below 3V per cell, so in your case with a 3 cell is 9V. I’d guess something wrong with your blaster binding it so look there. It don’t matter if charged up before use it’s how much work the battery has done during that time, if it has to do more work then it will drain more.
Check your blaster and spend some time reading the plethora of information about Lipos on the net and you’ll have 15 year old Lipos like me Not all survive though
ask if you need more help.
As @Maiphut commented, those are crap batteries, with a crap charger and those are dangerously low numbers for an 11.1V battery
A correctly fully charged 11.1V done with a proper quality balance charger will actually output somewhere around 14 volts when charged properly.
The 10V output you have shown, along with the cheap tiny batteries is the whole cause of probable any issues that you might be experiencing with that blaster.
This is poor enough to effect FPS, ROF, Accuracy and feeding issues from the magazine.
Get yourself a proper TURNIGY battery, either single or nunchuck style deposit on your available space… and MOST importantly… a quality battery charger such as a SKY RC as recommended above
Using this motor, with the modifications you have previously listed, combined with this battery will definitely lead to very poor performances, motor/battery overheating and extremely short battery life
It’s like building a Ferrari and then fitting a Briggs and Stratton power train……. just ain’t never gonna work
Just googled it and don’t look any better than using the USB charger
Thanks @DocBob and @Maiphut ,
I will replace my batteries and charger ASAP.
I’m so frustrated with Gel Blaster retailers right now.
I sent my blaster back under warranty when I first bought it as the motor was too hot to touch after one magazine of gels and they replaced the motor, at that same time I returned the B3 charger that they sold me with the blaster as it died on first use. The X Force balance charger was supposed to be an upgrade and I paid extra for it.
I’m guessing that the batteries and charger have been a problem from the start, I even sent it to a tech and paid for them to fix it when it started happening again as I had made the upgrades so voided my warranty.
You would think that the retailer would know more than the average punter and not sell products that are not fit for their purpose.
Thanks again to the brains trust for giving me the advice that I needed.
Cheers.
Try one of these are great for a battery, fit in AR buffer tube.
Turnigy Nano-tech 1200mah 11.1v 3cell 25-50c Li-on Battery – OP Force Delta Gel Blasters
Just check your Dimensions: 116x16x19mm battery size for the turnigy. Just doing some reading might not fit in your MP5. hmm but the Bigrrr one lists as 150x30x30 size so I dunno probably typo can’t be that big surely.
The Bigrrr battery has a basic 20c discharge rate so will struggle with upgrades like heavier springs etc. Not many options out there from a quick look.
The other option would be to double up your Bigrrr batteries, I read that can be done on the MP5. That would give you more juice.
Hi @Maiphut , thanks for the advice, I ordered the Turnigy Nano-tech 1200mah 11.1v 3cell 25-50c Li-on Battery. My MP5 is front wired so I should be able to fit it in the hand guard. If not I will attach a mock PEQ battery box to hold it.
Something funny is going on here. I was just reading through the thread.
In the picture it shows a bigrrr mosfet. Is it the bigrrr mosfet?? If so I have these on all my blasters some front wired and some rear. All bigrrr mosfets have mag prime. It’s a setting that can be switched on and off via a combo of selector movements and trigger pulls. If you are unable to put it into mag prime this could point to an overarching issue.
Now the only times I’ve experienced what you are describing with a bigrrr with batteries and wires getting hot was with one that had a damaged wire and a another where the wiring had broken near the motor spade connector and it wasn’t visible. Poor soldering can also affect their performance.
I have been able to run all sort of batteries with zero issues both 7.4v and 11.1v. Even super tiny batteries I have run in the handguard of my MCX rattler.
My gut is telling me even if you get a turnigy you will still have issues.
I know it will be a pain but make sure the wiring is spot on everywhere.