Thanks for the advice @DocBob I will pick up a Red Chi Hai Motor.
I want to avoid shredding my gear box with the Purple Chi Hai Motor.
I go through the small MP5 stick mags fast enough as it is without it going crazy fast anyway.
Appreciate your fast and knowledgeable advice.
Cheers.
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That’s an intelligent reply mate.
Choose a motor specific to your desired use/output.
Realistically 300. FPS and 12-15 RPS is the actual sweet spot for everything related to performance/accuracy/reliability and without spending stupid money on “upgrades” that aren’t required 
My simple stupid arse cheap builds were:
Air Seals.
Green O-Ring.
Upgraded trigger/wiring/plugs/battery.
AUSGEL 1.18 Spring.
7.5 alloy with length multiplied by “X” depending on customers particular blaster.
Reality is, 300 FPS and 12-15 RPS for a standard rifle type blaster is more than anyone could wish for 
The point of building all these different blasters for customers was that they were simple basic Sherman Tanks that could smash out anything that you tried abusing them for.
Stay simple, stay safe, stay unstressed and reliable…… that’s the ONLY thing that will save your game day and not get stressed over whatever online bullshit recommendations that are thrown upon you
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To follow up on my “intelligent reply” with a dumb question.
Are there only two types of gel blaster motors, short and long or do you have to buy one compatible specific to your blaster model? Many specify for a specific blaster eg “Jin Ming ACR” but I can’t find a LDT MP5 specific one except for the one that I already have and want to replace.
Will this one fit my LDT MP5?
And how is this one any different apart from the label on the motor?
Or this one?
Sorry for the noob questions.
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For the mp5, you’ll be looking for a 480 long motor. The first 2 you show are 460 long types which is a little bit shorter- they can be made to work but a 480 is better anyway.
The last one you showed uses a wet ferrite magnet, which is pretty much a stock motor level of performance.
What you’re aiming for is a 480 motor with 25k-35k rpm, with nd-feb magnets. I think from reading what you’re after the following link might be a pretty good fit - and at a stupidly low price.
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Early blasters from the Gen8 era came with 460 Type Short Shaft Motors.
They then had a slight upgrade to 480 Short Shaft Motors in the Kris Vector and a few others.
460 is the physical length of the motor casing, not the shaft length.
The 480 had a slightly longer motor casing, hence those early 460 & 480’s were still referred to as short shaft motors, even though the 480’s were longer between the pinion gear and the brush ends than the 460’s.
Because the Gen8’s only ran a 460 size motor cage, you couldn’t physically fit the longer 480 motor into the same position.
But this little black duck managed to butcher a Gen8 cage and 480 Vector motor to fit into my old Gen8 test mule “Little Pig” 
The Gen9/10/ACR etc were the introduction of the V2 Style gearboxes that were fitted with the 460/480 Long Shaft Motors.
Confused yet? 
Then the V2 style became the “long shaft” motors that ran the aluminium axle spacer and tension spring…… but can also both be found as 460 and 480’s , hence @Captainkrug ‘s comments that the first couple of “long” motors you pictured were actually “shorter” 460’s…… not “longer” 480’s ….just to keep you guessing and confused
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@Captainkrug & @DocBob you both have made me feel both smarter and dumber simultaneously. Smarter because now I know but dumber because it’s obvious when explained. Thanks to you both for your sage advice. 
Don’t worry mate…… we all started out as complete noobs into this hobby many years ago, which was actually easier way back then when everything was only one basic model m/design to learn from.
This allowed to be able to follow the whole expansion of the industry gradually learn the technology step by step as new developments were made.
If I was a noob coming into this hobby right now, with sooooo many different makes/breeds/mechanical evolutions taken place…….I’m sure that it would take me a year just to learn and catch up with whatever the hell everything is about! 
For anyone wanting metal mags. I think some mentioned problems with these before 
LDT MP5 Metal Stick Mags Warinterest, Gel Blaster Parts – RPM Techshop
Only $5 and still making a profit at that!
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I wouldn’t assume they are making a profit at $5. My guess is they are copping a hit on this just to get rid of them.
Dead stock is more of a cost to the bottom line than the loss taken up in the P&L.
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Yeah for sure…… was just being a bit cheeky
I’m a business owner myself…… empty shelves at a loss is definitely better than shelves full of gear that nobody is buying 
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Ah gotcha. Missed the cheekiness
I was told when I purchased my mp5 the metal mags were no good for the ultra elites and those real hard gels. Stick to the nylon mags if running those gels.
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Hi everyone, I installed the high torque motor and now the batteries are going dead faster than usual. Is that to be expected or is something else going on now?
More details required…… battery type, motor type, other internal/electrical mods
You have posted a great breakdown of your blaster, but not specific about the actual brand of MOSFET, battery brand and ratings or specs on which motor you ended up fitting.
Hi @DocBob ,
The motor and battery are as below:
I have just checked the battery and it is at 10volts remaining but the motor won’t turn.
I would try my other battery but I killed it by hot swapping it on the charger in a rush at Donnybrook today
My thought it to fully charge the battery, try firing it and see if I have killed the motor.
If it works again down to 10volts back off the motor screw?
I have no idea what went wrong.
Any advice appreciated.
For one you are letting your battery dangerously low. Balance charge that up before you blow up. That should be 11-12v for a 3 cell Lipo. Run them too low and they are fucked.
I have no idea if that charger you are using is any good or not. There are bad chargers and knock offs out there. Put a multimeter on your balance lead and test. If you don’t know how ask.
People have got to understand that Lipo’s are not AA batteries that you can throw around everywhere. Understand them, do your research, it’s all over the net and you’ll never have a problem. Unless you crash a 2 meter foamie from 200ft up and it crosses the wires, made a nice little fire 
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BTW that Xforce charger looks shit, it charges through the balance lead.
Genuine Skyrc imax B6AC V2 Balance Charger For Ni-Cd Ni-Mh 1-6S LiPo | eBay
Hi @Maiphut,
I always charge up fully before use, this is the reading when the motor stopped working.
I only got three and a half games in which is a lot less than usual from my battery.
Roger on the lippo care and I will look into chargers. My current charger is streets ahead of those usb ones that come with some batteries though. Lol
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It’s all good, the USB ones that come with the blaster throw them in the bin. That X force one may aswell go in there too.
Lipos will push full power until they die for good from draining them too low below 3V per cell, so in your case with a 3 cell is 9V. I’d guess something wrong with your blaster binding it so look there. It don’t matter if charged up before use it’s how much work the battery has done during that time, if it has to do more work then it will drain more.
Check your blaster and spend some time reading the plethora of information about Lipos on the net and you’ll have 15 year old Lipos like me 
Not all survive though ask if you need more help.
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