Question in regards to my modded blaster

Hey guys.

I paid to get a blaster modded with a leviathan v2 mosfet, a cnc gear box. 12:1 gears and all the rest of the stuff. I got an issue where the blaster will stop firing. But the mag motor will still run when you pull the trigger.

I have tried different batteries, including a 2 cell and a 3 cell titan which hasnt changed anything. The app shows that the mosfet is detecting the trigger pulling and the selector switch working.

When i took it in the store last time. They said it was a serting in the app and changed it. I did not touch the app after and it did the same problem.

I am starting to think its eother the wiring to the motor, or the motor itself. Any suggestions on what i can do?


Sounds like a classic problem, there’s a very good chance a wire/plug has slipped off your motor. When you pull the trigger the circuit completes to activate the mag motor - but without both plugs on the motor… no action with the gears.

Open up the base of the pistol grip/motor housing and have a look. This sort of thing does happen and isn’t necessarily a dodgy tech sort of thing. But getting blown off by saying it’s an app setting? That doesn’t inspire confidence, anyone installing a levi should know troubleshooting basic stuff like that

These are what you’re wanting to look at

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I have had a look at the wiring and all the wores are connected to the motor, but the heat shrink has all been torn. Sometimes it will be fine for a few days. Then it will just stop and not work.

I will havs another check and see if i can figure it out. Im hoping to get it sorted before friday.

I dont think my motor should have black sout on it…

I’d agree with you on that one. A burned out motor will give you the same problem as the slipped plug i suggested.

I’d suggest going back to the tech and asking them to come to the party on remedying the problem, but don’t get your hopes up too much as the industry is notorious for not giving a shit after sale. And a burnt out motor “could” be attributed to poor usage by the operator and be difficult to prove otherwise.

Whatever happens, I’d suggest going for a slower and more torque-y motor. That particular motor has a 14 tpa count putting it firmly into high speed motor territory. Depending on the spring used, the amp draw running 12:1 gears would be pretty high, and could have caused the burn out.

What sort of motor would you recommend mate? I was looking at the shs high torque and possibly running that

She has a heavier spring in here due to the build we were going for was a 30 rps at 300 fps. The amperage was over 100 amps which was way to high for my liking.

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Something like a tienly 30k motor should be suitable for the task, giving a theoretical rps of 30-32 but putting you into the torque side of motors with a 19tpa.

Regarding my reference to tpa (turns per armature), a 16-18tpa motor would be considered a balanced motor and anything above 19tpa is actually a torque motor. The shs high torque motor is supposed to be a 16tpa motor, so where it’s likely going to be better than the boost 40k you were running the amp draw at your gear set and spring will still be up a bit.

A warhead brushless would also be an option, if you’re willing to spend the money on it


I will be getting a warhead BRUSHLESS 35K BASE SERIES 480 LONG MOTOR for my blaster. hopefully that should do the trick.

Thank you very much for your help Captainkrug


I was just coming back to answer the rps estimates, but you’re all sorted. I like my warhead- great motor, there’s 2 things you need to be aware of though.

Don’t alter your rps/motor speed in the leviathan app.

The the motor tower is a bit smaller in diameter than other motors, which makes getting a proper pinion to bevel gear mesh impossible. Fixed with a piece or 2 of heat shrink or swapping the tower piece between your dead 40k boost and the warhead. Unless they’ve fixed this issue and i was just a first batch issue.

Enjoy the blasting

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By tower piece, are you referring to the piece on the shaft?

If that is what your talking about. i have a old Cyma motor that i can pull that off of. (Im going to try to get warranty on the other motor so i can fit it into a different blaster)

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That’s the one.

Edit: bulletproof customs did a fb vid of a repair and upgrade that touched on the warhead tower shaft issue. It illustrates the issue well enough, and they showed an electrical tape fix.

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I’d try crimping the motor terminals a bit more, could be the terminal just coming out of contact enough to have the unit think it is disconnected.

40k boost with 12:1 is definitely an inefficient setup, and likely if you have soot on the motor, you have too much active brake on also. Build quality of the boost motors is typically good and they should last ages, but in a 12:1, probably stressing it out on semi, especially if you spam semi and have active brake up too high.

As @Captainkrug has stated, a slower more torque based motor would be far better. I have my first warhead base 35k coming this week, which will be going in my front wired mp5, purely so I can run a smaller battery and stop taping one on the side.

I do have a 30k black warhead in a 12:1 and it achieves 25rps, with an m110, is drawing 9amps. It is amazing the efficiency of these motors, I can run it on a tiny 11v lipo from a vector, and it has no difference in speed than a 2.2ah brick, and doesn’t heat the battery at all. Definitely take particular care on the motor shaft tower, as while they are good, Mine was a bit small also so I swapped it with another one. The juice is worth the squeeze though for the torque speed and efficiency.


thanks for the response @RokSolid

The shop set up the active breaking for a reason that i can not remeber. The motors feel like the terminals are tight. but i will double check.

I actually run the blaster in 5 round burst and full auto. I have rarely put it into semi auto due to my field doesnt require semi auto

They set the active breaking at 24, but i put it up to 26 when i was hearing the beeping that it was over travelling which fixed that issue.

But like everything. The boost isnt adequate for the blaster like what you said unfortunately. so it will get that warhead into it to let it run at its best potential.

as for the boost. If they give me a new one under warranty. I will probably fit that into either my brother’s Cyma Scar, just as a better motor, or slap it into my m4 cqb for the hell of it and see what happens.

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Boost 40k is a quick motor, and certainly no point wasting it. I’d only recommend it on 18:1, or 16:1 if you want a bit more, generally gets in the 25-30rps territory. Personally I prefer to get the same with 13s or 12s and a high torque motor, as motor heat and battery drain is less.

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Ok, had a gander at trigger blocks finally.

You may be able to use the Jin Ming trolley in the JG block, looks very close and the slight differences in them may not matter for function.

The shs trolley and block is almost identical.
Easy option would be to just use the trolley from the SHS trigger block.
Would be a little more involved to swap the entire block and trolley but I reckon it would be worth it, as my experience with SHS trigger blocks is they offer a really positive trigger feeling… with a tasty click and reset in semi, and they tend to last a very long time too.

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hi guys, is there any way to have shot selection on my replica without using the urrkii g3 MOSFET? I don’t know how to install it or rather I don’t know if it’s going well :man_shrugging:t4: I think I prefer to put a normal protection MOSFET in it and put a selector in it if it exists

Even if plugged in between the battery and blaster you can change the amount of shots fired.:thinking:
Plug into blaster first.
Plug battery in and immediately do 2 trigger pulls to go into burst fire round count.
Mosfet brinks twice to confirm .
Enter value for rounds.
Mosfet will blink to confirm value
Mosfet will then blink 3 quick time to confirm save
Wait for dim light before testing.
If still over shooting
Run command 7 to adjust sensitivity.
This will depend on motor/gear/spring etc.
Even on the F2000 that currently needs anti reverse fixing it will fire single shot with a double slipping in occasionally.
When I do the anti reverse I will adjust the sensitivity further


The problem comes when I connect the soldered cable to the trigger and to the motor, when I connect the battery the MOSFET blinks 2 times and after a while 2 times and so on, I don’t know what it means, I charged the battery believing that it could be that… but nothing, removing the cable it does what it wants, sometimes it doesn’t do anything and sometimes it lets me shoot 2 rounds at a time but it gives an order that I didn’t give it, this thing is already on my nerves :joy::joy: