I haven’t been able to see your posted photos for a while, but now I can’ t see any photos at all.
The error I get is “the image could not be loaded”
Wow…the long slide looks awesome…!!
Where did you get the faux laser / mount.??
I have one of the same pistols, for exactly that reason…
It’d go great with da Oozi nine millameeda…and der 12 gauge ordo loader…!!
is it the traywick design kit.?
Ooo nice.
Longslide 45 wid laser sighting, UZI 9 hey you can’t do that… wrong 
They now do the .45… and robocop kit in 3d print resin…!
supposed to be a much stronger and smoother finish…
No need for smoothing prep, just paint.
Any of the 3d print guys, have any experience…??
@DChapo ??
Sorry was this comparing resin to filament printing?
Resin does give a much smoother finish as the layer hight can be down to microns whereas a standard FDM printer can only get down to about 0.1mm, and that’s pushing it, most printers can get down to 0.12 comfortably but that will increase print time substantially.
Resin is also a lot more cleanup, having to wash the part of any excess resin and then a final cureing to fully solidify the part. An FDM print you just peel of the plate and it’s basically ready to go.
Also resin printers are quite a bit smaller than FDM printers with most being about half the printable volume of a standard FDM.
FDM is best for larger more rigid parts, resin is better for smaller parts requiring higher dimensional accuracy.
I can’t say whether resin is stronger than filament but last I saw it wasn’t really any better, most parts I believe are solid whereas FDM has an infill on anywhere between 10%-30% being optimal. You also have access to more materials in FDM from standard PLA to things like fibre reinforced nylon and other engineering plastics.
You can however print a part in ABD and then use acetone to vapour smooth a part to save on sanding, but that opens up other issues like chamber heating and build plate adhesion.
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Yeah, im comparing resin vs PLA,
with the above kits(s) term and robo… they now offer them in Resin as well as traditional…
their image…
For term, it is probably best to go resin…smoother and finer finish.
For robo for my Kele M93… ih ad to dremel out a lot of material around the magazine, to get the gel mag in.
It ended up really thin.
im wondering if resin might be a better choice for robo v2, or stick with pla…
Im assuming resin wont melt in heat, like PLA.?
im also wondering…how would resin react to fettling.??
The robo grips would need trimming down to fit…if resin they would be solid… but does resin fracture easily, over a larger area.??
Composite fillings in dentistry are resin based, usually pre polymerisesd and ground, to minimise shrinkage on curing.
You can remove resin with a dental bur easily, but there are many different types of resin…?
Would it handle a good dremeling.?
As you can see in the image the FDM(left) is 0 but the resin is 0.05mm layer thickness so naturally it comes out a lot smoother, although filament used can also affect how visible layer lines are.
I’m not sure about the mechanical properties of resin but there are a variety of formulas available with tougher versions available but again I don’t know how they compare to filament.
Resin would probably be better for being able to remove material and it not being hollow, like what you had to do with that other kit.
You would still need to prep the surface for paint either way but would be much less hassle than filament.
They certainly should be using something a bit stronger than just PLA for parts too, for one PLA starts becoming malleable as low as 45°>50⁰.
PETG or ABS would be better but are a bit more finicky to print, especially ABS, but are stronger in almost every way.
There are newer PLA blends that offer equal or better properties than both PETG and ABS now also.
Afaik there shouldn’t be any problems using a Dremel with resin, as long as you take care not to go too hard too quick with it, I would be more concerned about heat if using a sanding/grinding bit but I’m not sure on the melting point of resin.
I recently watched a PSR video of some newish 3d printing material that is much hardier, probly more expensive too from over the pond. Buggered if I can remember the name of it. Don’t know 3D print stuff. Worked good though.
Use dremel regularly to fettle resin model cars, not a problem
There’s the hobbyists stuff that we can get for a couple hundo for our sub $1k printers then there’s the engineering stuff that’s thousands that goes into machines that are tens of thousands.
If you’ve ever watched Kindig, they use a commercial grade printer to make a variety of parts for cars, some of which are used in the engine, don’t know what material it actually is but that some pretty tough stuff for them to be confident in using it in the level of cars they work on.
Thanks guys…
í’ll just bite the bullet…
I’ll email first and see if he can do a 'trimmed down order"…
Only need the laser / mount for the Terminator…
And the Robo grip, shroud and rear sights, all in resin. Less parts for him to print.
Less parts should also make it less fuss for our friends in Syd…
One would think…
One can hope…
By the way, @Bart368 …was yours the traywick kit.?
i couldn’t find anything else anywhere…
Yours looks good.
Which paint did you use ( serious question !! 
)
mm I see military is getting in to it to make spare parts wherever they are deployed, like inconel or whatever is needed. Pretty cool stuff I don’t know about, keeps the whole eco system going
They’ve been using 3D printed drones over in Ukraine for a while now and you can guarantee militaries have been experimenting with 3D printed assets for a while now too
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