Recommend a 11.1v battery with mini tamiya connector

Can someone recommend a 11.1v battery with mini tamiya connector and chargerto my Double bell M4A1. Also recommend a good seller to buy it in Australia.(web link)

https://x-forcetactical.com.au/?s=gaoneng&post_type=product
I bought a deans version of these recently but they also stock tamiya. A pretty tight fit in the buffer tube but a very good output battery, and with good capacity, as good as you will get without going to a nunchuck style which doesn’t fit in most stocks.

I also recommend deans plugs over tamiya, worth doing the conversion if you are game and depending on your warranty status. Tamiya is ok, but even stock blasters can get them pretty warm.
Also, the main downside of tamiya connector is if something goes wrong the metal plugs inside are so thin the basically weld/melt together, and you have to really rip your smoking battery out and then immediately be careful not to short it out and continue the smoking battery, because it is very likely the metal plugs inside pulled out of the melted connector.

With a deans plug, they are not getting warm. Not on a gel blaster. And if the horrific happens and you need to rip the battery out, it just pulls apart with no damage to the connector.

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For those who might want to have a crack and haven’t done it before, here are some golden rules for connector swaps on lipo batteries :

  1. Cut ONE battery wire at a time… never both at once :laughing:

Seems obvious enough, but you’d be suprised how people get caught out. I usually cut the pos wire then tape it down to the battery while I cut and solder the neg wire onto the new connector so there’s ZERO chance of a short. Then the pos wire gets soldered after the neg’s been sealed with hestshrink.

  1. ALWAYS use heatshrink.

I actually prefer the adhesive heat shrink for that little bit of added peace of mind, it stays put when you’re plugging and unplugging much better than the normal heatshrink.

  1. Be precise with your soldering iron around your lipo.

Sometimes when your focussing on the very tip of the iron you can forget where the rest of the iron is… short out the pos & neg and it’s bye bye lipo.

  1. Always use liquid flux or at least flux core solder and get your iron temp right.

It speeds the process up significantly and the less heat you have around a lipo battery the better.

It’s definitely worth having a go and much better than paying a shop tech for what is a very simple operation. :+1:

I like those heat shrink that has the hot glue in it or whatever it is. Seals up nice and watertight plus dust , corrosion proof. Pretty fkn good in my hood.

sounds like you were an EOD in a past life.

I’m an ex P.O.D. member :laughing: :v:

Opening scene in that clip’s just a bit jarring :wink:

I dig your taste in music, Maiphut… man after my own heart. :+1:

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When that came out the whole of Redwood park hated me :rofl:

They actually had a street party when we left. My stereo cranked, fk em :v: :joy:

That’s the way…

Hope your sheep like it! :joy:

Best thing out here, can be as loud as I want and haven’t got Jesus banging on my door complaining. That’s what we named the next door nerds :laughing: them the days!

Which gen is this for?