Select Shooter Accuracy

I will comment on my doubt, I have the replica at an average of 290fps, an incredible distance, but a little uncontrolled precision, I wanted to know if it was more due to the ammunition or simply due to some other element, I have not yet tried with the aka balls, I am still using the balls from the red package, could you tell me what I can improve for better precision?

There’s gonna be more from the guys who know more about this I’m sure, but. A tight bore barrel is a good step after a well tuned hop-up. You may need to adjust the volume on your cylinder afterwards, too. The ultra hard AKA gels will also improve accuracy a little.

When you go above a certain FPS, softer gels lose a lot of precision. This is because the wind resistance changes the gel’s shape to a weird blob, which then ruins the aerodynamics and flight model.

Harder gels can go at higher FPS, and if I remember right the AKAs were perfect at that 290-310 FPS mark.

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A decent inner barrel will help a lot and stabilised. Search - stainless (

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Unfortunately gels are the least accurate of any of the hobbies, due to their size, weight, shape and softness.

Paintballs are the closest similar type of projectile to gels, but obviously much larger and more mass that helps them to stay on their trajectory.

NERF darts are awesome because of their weight, shape and the ability to use rifling to keep them very stable in flight.

BB’s are hard plastic, so easier to manufacture precise weight and surface quality, along with better performance getting backspin through the hops and less friction through the barrel.
Zero deformity, surface hardness, weight and surface quality all helps keep them very stable in flight.

Unfortunately we are stuck with basically wobbly jelly for our projectiles, which in reality, are the worst possible thing that could be expected to run through a mechanical system and fly through the air with any degree of consistency or accuracy.

All the available research from everyone who has tried to get the best results from their Gel Blasters through trial and error has come down to these few simple things:

  • Get your Volumetric Efficiency tuned first.

  • Keep FPS roughly between the 280-310 range as a guide.

  • Use a quality high polished Stainless Steel barrel.

  • Stabilise your inner/outer barrel within the handguard and ensure the handguard is locked straight and solid with the receiver body.

  • Fit a quality Hop-up that’s been proven/recommend by other users for your particular model blaster.

  • Use the heaviest/hardest gels available and grown to the correct size.

These are the basic tried and true guidelines as to what people have found to get the best results from their different blasters, whether long barrel rifles or short SMG’s and pistols.

My experience is that Stainless barrels have a higher mirror quality polish than brass/alloy and maintain their internal finish much longer.
Don’t forget to clean/maintain your barrel same as real steel to keep the internals clean and free of dirt/oil/gel debris.

Tight bore barrels such as 7.1’s are a pain in the arse and cause more blockages/gel size issues than what they are worth in any noticeable performance gains.
7.3-7.5 are much easier for gel sizing and feeding.

Always check your gel sizes.
Optimum size is .1mm under barrel size.
7.3 barrel: 7.2 gels, 7.5 barrel: 7.4 gels etc.

Barrel length and I.D. should be tuned for maximum ideal Volumetric Efficiency, not stupid long boi looks if you are serious about accuracy and performance over image.
It’s a myth that a longer barrel improves accuracy.

Been many times where I found shortening a long barrel actually improved performance and accuracy quite considerably…… possibly due to less weight/flexibility in distance from the receiver to the end of the long heavy barrel/handguard along with better air efficiency.

I think also quite possibly the less friction/drag on the gel as it’s spending less time travelling along the inner barrel surface.

Tune hop ups to the distance that you usually engage targets at particular games/fields.

A quality muzzle break/larger opening suppressor helps with the control of high/low air pressures and turbulence on the gels when exiting the barrel into the atmosphere for a much smoother transition.

Search YouTube for slow-mo video of when projectiles leave a barrel……the gas/air turbulence is quite violent.
Anything that can control that turbulence has a massive improvement over long distance accuracy.

It’s all trial and error for everyone, but following these guidelines will give you the very best basics for you to experiment and fine tune your particular blaster :ok_hand:


And you can do all that and it will be great. Pick it up two days later and it will be crap and the reason will be indiscernible. Two weeks later you might find the small chunk of gelball that had got stuck in the t-piece or in the end of the hop-up

I suggest sacrificing a chicken with every new build


Bwahahaha…… soooo true mate!
Hence my comments about keeping the bastards clean and maintained regularly :ok_hand: