Even the New M95 spring, sees 320-330 fps…
I dont know if i’d trust a New M90, not to jam again…
Even the New M95 spring, sees 320-330 fps…
I dont know if i’d trust a New M90, not to jam again…
It’s literally a piece of piss to cut and shut magazines provided they’re roughly the same size, and even if they’re not it can still be done.
Years ago I grafted a stick mag lower onto an M4 stanag upper for an M4 pistol build. Looked cool, worked fine, albeit shit capacity. M4 receiver, Vector suppressor for a handguard, Scorpion EVO / M4 mag. ![]()
Rear wired to an XT30 plug, concertina battery wire ran up to a box attached to the sling.
With any custom mag, once the shell’s sorted the terminal wires and feed tube are easy. Same principle applies when you make custom drum mags… of which I’ve made plenty. ![]()
Long barrel, really good JG seals, and they do have a tighter barrel than most… PME risk is damn high especially any spring less that stock one.
it seems to go okay on the M95…
I might be " stuck" with 330 fps…!!
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I wanted to try it at 300…
Long barrel with good seals and m90 is probably around 330fps anyway.
The nozzle to cylinder head spout will loosen up a little and drop slightly over time but about 320 was as low as I seen out of them.
And xforce Monday morning just got busier ![]()
" I really really want…
290 fps, and accuracy out of it…
So…
Ported cylinder, and cut the barrel down"
" Why the hell did you buy a Long Boi.?.?!!"
Dont worry, i can live with 330 fps…!!
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It’s just a number on a chrono in the end…
What the squishy round thing does when it exits the barrel’s the important thing.
It’s not like you can walk around with a t shirt on that says “My blaster does 330FPS!” ![]()
… or can you? ![]()

Yep…!!
Have a go on my bike Beemer, I can guarantee 50 shades of code brown when you hit the throttle. ![]()
No flaps or rudders, point and shoot
I should invest in one of those gopros.
Actually, they had a gopro, did a big session but it was flat haha Some of the organized rides I’ve been on, put Crusty Demons to shame. Got woken up at dawn by dynamite going off, you may say fireworks, no it was explosives. Shook through my ute I was swagged out in, at dawn. Fkn crazy fks. Bit of drunken banter from some pissheads oh yea I’ll warm one of their mates bike up at 5am for him, XT500 they started it in front of his tent straight full throttle cold as and held it pinned. I’m like wtf these crazy crunts doing. Bang, blew the motor up deliberity and laughing there tits off. Owner crawled out of his tent, you cunts, thank fuck I don’t have to ride with you today.
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HaHA…!!
You win the internet for today…!!
First prize… one Wells blaster.
2nd prize… 2 wells balsters.
3rd prize…3 wells blasters…!!
![]()
Oh my god
I never win anything ![]()
I’d like to thank myself for stealing friendly’s idea, bme’s example and building on it and producing the final product which looks absolutely fabulous I might add
Get yours at Create your own | Spreadshirt
It’s a pity I just got back from up on the sunny coast, otherwise I could have collected my winnings on the way home ![]()
Just fooling lol
Okay… battery box sorted… a bit complicated, and i’m sure @shadow187 will be interested.
The space for the standard battery is…non- existant.
Taking the top cover off, there is a tiny space, compacted by the " rigidity rail".
This rail runs from inside the blaster, all the way to the front, into the front iron sight. It stops the front iron sight from rotating.
It comprises a “floor”, and two “sides” one on each side of the barrel screwed together. You need to remove the front sight, to get everything off.
two options…
1: Remove floor, and side rails.
Nothing in there now, except the barrel. Problem is the battery bangs and floats around, making noise.
2: Remove floor… keep side rails screwed apart.
I used my own longer, 16mm M4 screws. One in the front, 1 at the rear.
Lightly screwed in, it keeps the parts together, but able to slide outwards to create more space. This helps retain the battery, stops it from moving and banging around…
This photo… the floor is gone…how it looks if the 2 sides are screwed together tightly…
Now, one screw front and rear…its able to move apart, wider…
A cylinder battery fits perfectly/ tightly in the groove. Have the " raised bit" of the battery, facing down in the channel. this gets the battery as low as possible, and doesn’t put upwards pressure on the battery cover.
Barrel with everything off…
I used a loose zip tie, to retain cable / keep it all from moving too much…
Channel can still open.
Central channel opened up…
And, battery in…no moving, no bumping no noise…
The only downside is, having lost the “rigidity rod”…the front sights can rotate.
With the battery cover on, it does tighten up, but still moves a little.
But hey, small price to pay for silent battery running.
Nothing would fit in there, with the rod in anyway…
Arnie shoots from the hip, when walking through the police station…sights not required…!!
With these batteries…
the bottom one, was supplied. It fits.
The top one is larger…and does fit, but jams in tight, with pressure on the cover.
Me No Likey.
It seems the cylinder battery is the one to use…larger capacity, fits in the channel, and no pressure on the cover.
You may have to change some leads, but hey…
What’s one more job, at this stage, @shadow187 …??!
Its all F( un/uck), right…!!
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I was supposed to post in here earlier but was running late for work and it’s literally been a shit show since, details in the shit pit thread shortly
Found my Turnigy 7.4v in my cupboard fit a lot better than the supplied battery as it has thinner dimensions however was still a very tight fit and mines handguard is stiffer than a week old dead hooker that’s been discarded in a ditch to slide lock in and out of place
Was thinking of looking for an 11.1v Turnigy battery the same size but sounds like this procedure may be the way to go
It’s a pity HobbyKing are out of stock
Dimensions are a touch off, but this one may do the trick…
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1000mah-3s-20-40c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html
11.1v
Hmm might not be enough mah
7.4v
Hmm this would be perfect if it fits
This one might do the trick
in all honesty, the channel is designed to hold a cylinder battery
One of these suckers.
Cheap, reasonable capacity…change the plugs and done.
I may grab one, and let you know how it goes.
My current black one is 7.4v, and has mini tamiya plug already.
It fits fine, and goes fine.
More capacity than the smaller, supplied battery…