I havnt got around to getting flux and more solder, definitely need to get some soon and start practising, have a skd m92 that needs a new mostfet and I’m really not looking forward to that, even Rok said it’s a headache to do so that says something lol
But yeah changing terminals is something I do want to look at doing in the future but need practise soldering first
I had a brand new silver 7.4v cylinder battery with Tamiya plug and it was fully charged but it didn’t work in the Sig 550 at all, might not have been powerful enough
I really wouldn’t recommend any of the lipos that are covered in chequered heat shrink… garbage.
Dubious Chinese batteries, sub standard quality and absolutely spurious capacity ratings. Put them on a B6 discharge / balance charge cycle and that “2000mAh” battery usually ends up being about 500mAh in reality.
A smaller capacity Turnigy or other better quality battery will always outperform a chequer battery all day every day. There’s a reason they were the batteries that came included with Jin Ming blasters back in the day.
It would. Any 3x 18650 fits like a glove… room is tight but a long round one is what they are made for.
Titan batteries are of the thinnest 18650 equipped batteries. And use good quality Samsung… or LG cells depending on the production batch. They are not cheap but with batteries you do generally get what you pay for. An actual good quality 3000mah battery cell usually runs a bit over 12 AUD a piece, so half the price is the cells themselves.
I have a load of Titan batteries, I think I still have one or two of the 11.1v sticks, that I don’t really use anymore, when I get home if you haven’t found one you are welcome to mine.
I have moved to lipos everywhere possible as since the advent of brushless motors I have been slowly converting everything I own to, means I don’t need large capacity batteries anymore.
Where a 3000mah used to last me all day at Donnybrook, now with brushless I can just use a smaller lipo, and they seem to be more reliable over time.
I like Titans, but they do not suit higher amp drawing stuff. The get hot with too much amp draw, and when they get hot their output drops. They also take a long time to cool down once they are hot. If you have things close to stock levels of performance, or just under 25rps they are totally fine, and will last all day. Approaching 30rps though without a brushless motor they start to show their weakness.
The other main downside is I got sick of repairing them. If you continually bend the nickel strips to fit them in various blasters the strips break. Easy fix for a handy with a soldering iron f***er like me, but still dangerous as you are soldering live DC electrical things to 18650 batteries. They also become not so thin once I have repaired them- leading to less easy fit, tighter and more bending… the positives are reduced once repaired.
Tac Toys used to have storm power batteries that were long thin lipos for AKs and the like. Loved them for these sort of blasters, though only around 1200-1400mah, they fitted and worked well. They two I have have been very good to me.
Awesome, that’s just the info I was looking for… it’s hard to know what battery to choose for me, I just want something that will go the distance and last more than an hour or two like some of the stock standard batteries that have come with blasters Ive bought brand new, some only lasting about 45mins
It seems with the batteries that come with most blasters you don’t get a lot of bang for your buck so it’s understandable why you need to upgrade batteries to get the most out of your blaster
I’m trying to stick to only using a battery for a specific blaster rather than chop and change using one battery in multiple blasters, might be excessive but at least I’ll know I’m not adding unnecessary stress on the battery and hopefully keep each battery in the best condition possible for as long as possible so they last
I just used my imax b6 v2 balance charger to charge my 8.4v ni-mh battery that came with my MP40 and holy it’s damn near scorching hot afterwards, it’s a bit worrying… for some reason it’s saying 10.89v when it’s an 8.4v is that something to be concerned about? I don’t remember it getting this hot last time I charged it
I guess it all comes down to your intended useage.
If you plan on running your blasters often in skirmish games then efficient large capacity batteries matter.
If, however, you’re like a lot of us in here and don’t really use them in anger but rather have them because they’re cool and look good on display or just plink in the backyard now and then, the smaller ones are fine. As long as the battery turns the unit over now and then to keep it in order that’s pretty much all you need.
I don’t have a large colection of batteries anymore because I don’t skirmish. I changed my way of thinking that every blaster needs three or four lipos a long time ago when I got sick of storage charging a mess of lipos that spent 99% of the time in a lipo safe bag on the shelf. Doing the math, if Rok and Beemer had two batteries for every blaster they owned, they’d have about 400 lipos between them, enough energy potential to power a small country.
Same applies to magazines… two or three’s plenty for me.
It helps to have commonality in wiring too… all my blasters are wired XT30, so are my batteries. I figure I can only use one or two at a time, so half a dozen small and half a dozen large batteries in a mix of 7.4v and 11.1v is all I need.
And, most importantly, don’t get in the habit of leaving connected batteries in blasters when they’re not being used. Or at least disconnect them. Making it like a real steel routine to clear the blaster when you’re done with it is a good habit to get into… clear the mag, feed tube and t piece of gels, stick it in safety and pull the battery.
Nothing worse than picking up a customer’s blaster to find the battery’s in and the mag’s full of gels, hey @RokSolid ?
These JG Sig 550’s have to be the most annoying blasters to install a battery in and close the handguard properly and reinsert the takedown pin
Mine is just that stiff it’s not funny to slide up the bottom half of the handguard to enable to pin to be reinserted
It was an absolute pain in the arse to get it to unlock the first time I went to open it to install a battery, struggled for ages and then when it finally let go I heard a big crack sound
Nothing was broken, I checked thoroughly, no hairline cracks or anything I believe it was just an exaggerated click sound of it unlocking after sitting for so long
@BME how’s yours go with getting the handguard back together and everything clicking back into place?
it’s damn near scorching hot afterwards, it’s a bit worrying… for some reason it’s saying 10.89v when it’s an 8.4v is that something to be concerned about? I don’t remember it getting this hot last time I charged it
