Mines still going in the Aug. Applies to the Vector too being same board. I used the BR1050. Still got a couple spares incl easyfet I never ended up using.
Was interesting for me to do as my electriks are tier dumbo.
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How would one go about the T238 insulation, or rather what do you do?
Looking at putting one in the future.
Depending on the model you get, the more expensive ones come with a sticker to cover the circuits, but in my experience, they donât cover every opportunity to short. A few carefully placed pieces of electrical tape on the gearbox shell will reduce that potential for failure, main areas to watch is the contacts near the edges. Nylon gearboxes is not a worry, but metal ones definitely take care around the front and lower edges on the gearbox shell.
The 1.7 has been my favourite, good balance of performance and features and value. Can be had for around $80 if you wait for post from China, couple years ago when they came out they were about $50-60, so whenever I had a custom build, it worked out pretty good to get that rather than wire up a trigger block and get cutoff levers etc. It worked out only about $20 dearer, and people and me where generally happier with the âmosfetâ than trigger block. I was too as it was less work and less to potentially not work in a custom.
I had dealt with all the T238 products and everything else available under the sun.
My simple solution was to simply coat any surface connections with Araldite/Epoxy two pak glue resin.
It insulates against any issues, but at the same time can be easily âcrackedâ and removed if further work was required 
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