Same metal trigger’s gone into two different CYMA V2 nylon boxes, both times it’s resulted in losing select fire. Swap back to the nylon trigger and it’s fine.
Dimensionally identical, so no logical reason that I can see.
All I have come across before is the axle on some metal triggers being quite tight inside the gearbox, leading to the disruptor lever for semi unable to disengage the trigger under the extra tension put on the trigger block to be able to disengage
@DocBob makes a good point, have seen that more than a few times.
Have I had trigger issues… Oh have I!!! I absolutely HATE getting a blaster that has trigger issues! Trigger slipping off the trolley, trigger not releasing the trolley for semi… and the hours sometimes I have chased my tail just when you think it is sorted it does it again… or even worse got it working and a week later it comes back… yuck.
The SLR CQB, was my favourite blaster to recommend at the time for a new player as they were reliable and good. They ONLY time I EVER saw them for repair (not upgrade) was a broken trigger. Never did a warranty job EVER on them. (I loved that!)
…they are absolute pricks though for being picky with triggers. I literally used to grab a stack of V2 and gen9 triggers, and just start the trial and error. Some would take V2, some Gen9, just never knew. And it was a job I could only charge an hour maximum; always included a service and o-ring, maybe spring, cylinder head and nozzle. And the worst case ones would take a good bit longer than that!
I like to think I am pretty good at tech work, but trigger issues at times have had me question my life choices! I always win in the end, but man have I had a few blasters really try and beat me down with trigger problems!
Gen9 triggers, are usually a fraction taller than V2, an “SLR” trigger from the pre SLR CQB era was taller again but the newer CQB model ones are closer to between V2 and Gen9. Most are v2, but ended with gen9.
Long story short. I now keep a few T238 Basics on hand always.
They are about $40-$45. I am yet to have a faulty one, and they do work with T238 brushless motors
They have active brake that can’t be disabled; which I don’t like, but it does lend well to leaving the gears under no stress at least between cycles of semi. Auto just finishes wherever the trigger is let off though.
Auto mag prime of 0.5 second. And you can change semi to binary, I don’t but it is there. That is it. No real frills and basic as it says.
If something is having trigger issues, I KNOW I can just bang one of these in and it will work and remove any possibility of trigger issues.
Comes with deans installed already. Awesome. Only have to solder on mag terminals.
You have to remove the metal sleeve on the selector plate, and quite often remove 1-2mm from the rear edge where it contacts the full auto switch. I install the unit, install gearbox in the lower receiver, attach motor and battery and move the selector switch to gauge how much needs to be removed, it beeps when switching from semi to auto, I just get it so it beeps roughly half way between the two.
On metal gearboxes I cover most of the board in electrical tape but it is only a few minutes extra for the piece of mind. The instructions don’t say it but I recommend it.
For me it is just easier and quicker to install one of these than playing with trigger switch problems. I am more time poor these days so for me this is a great option. I do love how a stock cyma trigger feels in semi though, so I would give it a bit of time before swapping it.
Probably the most annoying aspect of trigger issues with a V2 is the amount of reassembly you have to do to test whether you’ve fixed the problem.
I swear the motor and grip went on and came off that lower receiver at least five times last night before I threw in the towel, grabbed a beer and sat down to watch Netflix.
Oh yeah, easily the most annoying part! So much effort for something that is only “it might work”!
It is slightly less effort to assemble the gearbox without the compression section, hold the selector in semi and trigger then cycle the sector gear with a small screwdriver. But the catch is what works this way does not always work once fully assembled. So frustrating at times. And even an outdoor blaster that will almost only be used in auto still annoys me if it doesn’t semi auto because it just isn’t perfect!
Required removing a lot of meat from the front of the tab area that pushes the trigger trolley… which resulted in a fair section of the top of it falling off because of a casting flaw
Strangely, the little nub I was left with works perfectly. Go figure!
Don’t care, I’ll take the win! it’s not a stellar M4 but one of my faves.