Hello! I have recently pulled out my blasters after a year or two and have decided to tackle an issue that always bothered me.
I have the green gas mp5k from well with 4 mags (managed to get 4 that don’t leak, a miracle!). However, I find that that the full auto fire mode dumps the mag too fast. But when I have it in single fire, the recoil will knock it back into full auto randomly (regardless of if I try to hold the selector on single). I have been all over youtube/google trying to find a video or explanation but am yet to see anything.
Long story short; Is there a way to disable the full auto mode so it is only capable of single fire?
I don’t have any experience with this particular model, but all I could suggest is if it uses a mechanical fire selector, maybe replace it with an Electronic FCU?
An aftermarket FCU can replace the mechanical components rattling out of their switching and allow for multiple programmable fire select functions.
Yeah FCUs don’t work on GBBs… unless I’m tripping.
The GBBs would, I assume, use a fire control group assembly not dissimilar to the real steel. It’s easy to do what you’re after with AEGs, but how to do it with a gas blow back is not in my wheelhouse of knowledge.
Looking at why the selector walks into full auto under use would probably be an easier option. Being mechanical, it should be something that can be corrected… unless… medinchina.
I know the reason why those MP5Ks were not big ticket items was because of the 1.5 second mag dump with the giggle switch engaged and the miniscule mag capacity.
They’d be not bad units for CQB semi only venues though if you can sort that problem out.
Thanks for the info mate, I might pull it slightly apart this weekend and see what I can see. I might just be able to put a chock in somewhere that jams the selector from jumping up.
If you pull the two pins out and drop the lower with the trigger group out and look for bare or worn down metal, assuming the pieces have been painted.
GBB triggers usually work on the same principle as real steel with a disconnector being engaged on semi stopping the hammer from being released after cycling, it basically locks the hammer back a notch then when the trigger is released the disconnector releases the hammer onto the trigger and when that’s pulled again that releases the hammer and the cycle starts again, that’s the click you feel when releasing the trigger on semi.
If you upload a pic of the inside that might help us find the cause
Mine smell though, then nekkminut doing fart competitions with Dad. Oh here we go, nope that’s a 6 out of 10. Hang on gotta go to the dunny. Pull my finger, why, just pull it, braaap. Oh fk that smells not pulling that again haha
Alright, I didn’t get any pictures (sorry! still going to have a proper go on the weekend), but I had a quick look last night and it seems that the fire selector operates two small paddles (metal, thankfully) that are both lowered when in “safe”, one is raised for “single” and then the 1st is lowered and the 2nd raised for “auto”. The second one seems to lift a small plunger that I assume is the only thing enabling the full auto fire*. Again, I’ll put pictures up when I actually go for it, but I think removing that plunger should render the blaster as single fire no matter where the fire selector is sitting, solving my problem.
If I’m right, this will be a mean little blaster that doesn’t dump the entire mag randomly. Y’know, what I thought I bought originally after that it’ll be a longer barrel covered by a suppressor for more fps!
*I was wrong, the 1st or semi auto paddle was lifting the plunger (which was actually a lever…), enabling semi auto.
Ok, so the pictures of the paddle things are safe, semi auto, full auto in order. The paddle on the right side of the blaster engages when in semi auto and lifts that little lever thing
The last two photos are what those paddles come in contact with.
I tried gently forcing the paddles to stay in the semi auto position with a screw driver when I had the fire selector in full auto, but those things STAY in that position once the selector has moved.
It seems to me, in my incredibly limited knowledge, that I could:
remove the paddle that engages full auto, but I’d still have to figure out how to stop the selector being knocked into the now mis-firing full auto mode. Still stuck on how to do that.
try and jam that lever that the semi auto paddle hits before it activates the firing mechanism in the “up” position, so that even if the selctor is in the full auto position, semi is being activated (I think…). The problem with this option being that I can’t see where that lever goes to or what it’s doing inside that black box.
or some other option that I’m hoping you bloody legends can help me with
Hmm, looks more like a gbb pistol setup than what I thought it might be.
Those paddle things do play a part, I think the one that’s for semi locks the seer when engaged but the other does the opposite and holds the seer down for auto.
It’s a weird setup, are those paddle things on the bolt carrier/nozzle assembly?
In that first image there looks to be quite a. It of wear on the back left side there, like the metal has been hammered a bit.
It’s could also be something has loosened like that screw 4th/5th images.
The paddle thingies are on the fire selector just above/behind the trigger, not part of the bolt carrier. But they are what hits the mechanism that releases the gas, it seems. That’s why I suspect jamming that lever up might be the go, it’s the only thing semi auto paddle touches that full auto doesn’t.
That wear is on the semi auto paddle, it is just a bit of surface paint wear, not deep at all. I suspect it’s because I’ve tried very hard to only fire it in semi auto.
As for that screw, it was tight as hell when I gave it a go, seems to be locked in good.
I realy think the recoil is just knocking it into full auto somehow, I just can’t figure out how it’s happening. Will try jamming something in that lever when I have time, see how it goes
after that it’ll be a longer barrel covered by a suppressor for more fps!
