hey guys, hoping someone can give me some info on this screw under the grip.
no information in the paperwork included with the blaster.
obviously it’s for adjusting the motor, just looking for some more info before attempting to adjust it
cheers
It’s for adjusting the motor height, which effects the mesh of the bevel gears inside the gearbox.
They are measured/set from the factory and shouldn’t need any adjustment.
If there’s no issues with the blaster, then I would recommend not touching it!
If you tighten it up for no reason, it will force the motor pinion gear hard into the main bevel gear inside the box, which can cause all sorts of issues and possibly break the gearbox 
1 Like
that sounds like some need to know info that should’ve been included with the instructions. thanks @DocBob
the only issues I’m having with it ATM is some double fire on single mode, fairly consistently when it does it, and it locks up on single fire mode every now and then and won’t fire at all, trigger seems to lock, won’t continue to fire until switched to auto
the double fire may be the gels, about a month or so old aka’s that kind-of look a little smaller than other fresh gels I’ve been using so further testing required, I don’t think it was doing it with the strawberry milkshakes,
2 Likes
gels be shrunk a bit is the double fire issue. If it spits 2 out at once. Mag feeds two up bwcause they slightly undersize.
As for the trigger locking up. Be the selector plate trigger mech you have to open it up. The selector plate pressure sprung be not quite right. That lil tappet return common problem with V2 gearboxes until you spring and lube them right.
Welcome to the world of fixing blasters my friend.
Try running 2S 7.4v that can induce problems if you on 3S.
Or do like the yanks. I know whats wrong wid it… aint got no gas 
Was going to say about 11.1V causes double feeding issues more often than not, but @Maiphut beat me to it 
11V can also mess up the semi auto interruptor mechanism with the higher ROF, so 7.4V is the go for the smoothest running on standard type blasters 
I don’t think that there’s a single blaster manufacturer that puts detailed instructions in the box, only the basics of how to assemble the blaster, charge the battery, grow the gels and that’s about it 
Yea not only that it’s everything. I was always taught to read the drawing and build it. Scan a QR code now and it takes you to the manufacturers website and there is nothing on there anyway!
Try that @shadow187 if you can. 2S 7.4v.
The wells quality for running 3S needs to be upgraded for reliable function. That includes the springs throughout.
yeah sweet, I’ll see what I’ve got and grab a 2s 7.4v when I can.
cheers guys, much appreciated
Easy to set motor height… just use your ears.
I usually cycle on semi and listen… wind the screw in by quarter turns until you hear the gear noise increase. Keep backing off in quarter turns until the gear noise is at it’s quietest
Wind back too far and it’ll get noisy again, so just stop adjusting when you get the quietest and cleanest cycle.
You’ll know when you’ve got it right
2 Likes
Nothing to do with gels… Wells motors are pretty fast and have reasonable torque, for a stock ferrous magnet motor. Combined with 18:1 gears and a spring that is a bit on the short side they do this if they are set reasonably well.
Fire auto, they switch until it works in semi
In time the motor will wear a bit and it will work more reliably in semi, but for now if it is doing that it means the gears are reasonably well meshed and don’t have much resistance… It’s a good thing despite the annoyance in semi.
The pinions on them are made from the finished flour and Metallica powered. Lol. They do not like being too far in, and the cast bevels in them are no better.
I replaced so many bevels and pinions under warranty as they didn’t use thread lock on them from factory and the motor height screw would wind out.
Usually while at a game and then there is less teeth… and wears much faster. Then some genius field Marshall just winds it right in for them leaving a load of metal filings to clean out… can’t blame them.
I used to set and thread lock them coming out of the box when they came in before sale… unfortunately I’ve been privy to a load of wells warranty and pre sale repairs. Even had a load of them with metal gears and nylon pinions from factory to repair once. Wtf!
I hope yours lasts. If I can get my cqb to a game I will do a video tearing it down to see how my efforts of making it last and perform have gone… I did, every trick I could think of, and so far it has lasted many games doing 310fps and around 25rps… Maybe faster actually I can’t remember! Rok has been working too hard all December!
Forgot to mention the Loctite thing, but this would require someone without any experience to actually take the screw out and readjust it again properly without knowing what to listen out for to get the best alignment 
I only ever had a couple of WELL’s, a PDW9 and a M4-06M, which were both a piece of shit in my opinion compared with much cheaper stuff such as JM Gen8/9/10’s in regards to performance and reliability.
Straight OOTB the Gearboxes sounded like trash, double feeding or no feeding was more prevalent than just normally expected one shot for each trigger pull or steady constant firing on full auto.
I didn’t do anything with either of them apart from testing them stock standard straight out of the box, then getting frustrated with them and putting them back into their boxes and throwing them on the pile never to be used ever again
They aren’t worth doing much to, unless you want to convert to an mk Tactical CNC box or ldx style box, they will never really be a good reliable blaster that lasts for long. But the only thing wells left at that point it the external.
Still if you like a tinker and pick em up cheap it’s fun to try!
I must have got a Wednesday built one as it is fine and still going from when they first released.
Funny to read the shit canning though
Yeah I know of one that’s still choochin’ after a couple of years of regular use. 
must be down to luck.
But, then again, there’s probably the odd Lada Niva strill running as well.
Yes they are very good And the right one to try to get you back in action without confusing yourself on too much tech info. Or disassembly.
2 Likes
awesome sauce, thanks mate
1 Like
I had to put my glasses on and blow it up.
That’s most likely the issue that I had, always buying the very latest release blasters, then having issues that were sorted on the later release versions.
Bit like the Car Market… never buy the first new models, always wait until they release the following model and hope that they have fixed all the factory feckups on those versions 
I had the exact opposite with that Fighting Bro G18C Glock though, which was a pre release model and worked solidly without a single issue, unlike the final market release versions 
I was at the M4A1 shop local. The lineup was down the street. Sold out of Wells M4 Nylon in 2 hours. That’s no joke. I went in with a mate as he wanted one said got sale on let’s hit the gas.
I didn’t expect half of Adelaide to be there same time Shop said they sold out by 10am made a mint. 800 Wells M4 in 2 hours.
I already had mine before that. Fun times.
Production can be spotty with everything these days even if they are QC’d you still get some misses. And some good ones, hence the Aussie slang must been built on wednesday. Monday wheel falls off, Friday they forget to put it on.
Yeah I know of a few that have lasted years. The unfortunate side I dealt with was so much warranty work from them.
Tbh it could be one part poor quality build, one part luck and how is it being used by the owner too.
They are often cheap, and people’s first blasters so they are the only blaster getting thrashed at games before the owner know much about caring for their blaster too.
Most are good little performers when they work.