The switch is probably okay, unless the terminal’s been pulled out of the switch as @RokSolid suggested. But it’s starting to sound like your loose wire connects internally inside the switch housing.
Is it possible you’ve unintentionally bridged the two connection points with a little too much solder?
Maybe try stripping the insulation off the loose wire and touching likely solder points while you’re triggering the mag prime. Testing that way’s better than soldering and desoldering all the time. Too much heat into a plastic switch is never good.
If that switch is proprietry ( doubtful, knowing the Chinese ) you’ll be struggling to find a replacement… because… gel blasters
If testing that way doesn’t work, you could just live without mag prime… it’s not that important. Just fill the mag feed tube when you fill the mag…
You don’t have a lot of luck with mag prime switches on these pieces of plastic, do ya?
Looks like the one I use for both eyes. Cheap, has a AAA powered light and different magnification you can flip down the things to see the little fiddly bits better. Light is handy too.
Good enough for me as last I checked I’m not a brain surgeon…
the 2 metal tabs, are brought into contact by the switch.
they run through the insulated block, emerge from the rear…
one angles up ( gone)
one angles down (remains)
Attach a wire to each.
Which, is why i couldn’t find anything to attach the wire to…nothing was there…
And why, with loupes, trying to expose more with the hot soldering tip…you would get teasing glimpses of just the thinnest amount of metal…
i reassembled, and applied a blob of solder at the rear…hoping it would connect with the tiny bit of metal showing…
probably a fools errand…
So, there the problem… wafer thin bit of protruding metal, lightly bumped, and snapped off…
The new switch is a little further back, than the old one.
It J u s t connects with the cocking lever…and thats a good thing.
It means, the lever isn’t smacking the switch hard…less force on the switch.
Sometimes, you need to use a little rearwards pressure on the lever to make contact…thats ok.
So, its just about the epoxy holding the switch on, longterm.
It has 3 points of epoxy contact…side, top, and bottom… so hopefully should be long lasting.
I trimmed 1cm off the barrel, so its not protruding from the tri lug.
Lost a teeny bit of fps…
It was 300-310 before…
Now its around 290-300 fps.
Minimal loss, for improved aesthetics… and its still a solid performer…
