I’ll bring this photo down, for closer reference…
But once again, this is his “bitsa brown”, own paint…
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Haven’t you got yourself in quite the conundrum. I like the darker personally.
You’ve got more than one pulse rifle. Do one in each and compare 
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Yeah, i like the acrylic so far, too…
the “Blasta Brown Bess” is not really popping, so far…
I’ll colour match off my HCG hero ( located at my unit) , which is probably based off the most colour accurate version.
At the end, just find a colour your happy with…
Here’s another pic of a HCG Brown Bess M41A…
I think the lacquer is a better match… 
It definitely should have a hint of green about it.
Hey if we start up a new thread for this under “Creator” can we title it…
“M41A Pulse Rifle Repaint (Or… Takin’ It Down To Brown Town)” 
Doing my head in already…!!
Someone mixed up two tamiya’s… brown and green at a 60/40 ratio…
I’ll do a larger 5x5 cm sample of each, to get a better idea…and see what this gunmetal grey looks like…
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Dont talk me into getting another one…!!
Baby shit brown, or heavy constipation…??
Im crapping myself already…!!
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If you use water based acrylic it won’t be as durable but you can always shoot a coat of flat clear over it after you weather it.
Ah, no guts no glory… jump in, it’s only paint.
In all honesty…the shroud doesnt cop that much handling or wear.
The grips, the pump etc handle most of it.
Maybe a lacquer base, and acrylic on top…??
When it finally wears through, it reveals a lighter, more durable brown under.?.?
Acryilic will work good as long as there is no flex in the plastic it tends to crack. Clear will help lock it in somewhat.
With this
as an example. Hard body ABS, with crashes will snap I did 4 coats of lacquer (Tamiya TS) for the colour. Let dry. Applied the stickers. Then 6 thick coats of TS13 clear to seal the stickers and everything. It’s held up well to multiple rollovers and endos.
The clear on top really helps . I’m not sure about lacquer then acryillic on top. Lacquer is more flexible and acrylic tends to be more flakey and less durable, but then depending on what mix and what it’s on. Acrylic you usually use on static models that don’t get hammered.
Not an expert in painting models etc just sharing my exp.
Do some trial sections first with both, inside somewhere that doesn’t matter. Then see what works best.
To add: with Tamiya PS paints for polycarbonate bodies that are flexible, that is lacquer too but bit different mix and spraying on the inside of the RC body so it does not get scratched off the outside. No clear needed. Polycarbonate bodies are clear. It’s different to what you are looking for I know but some does transfer across.
I wouldn’t overthink it… a well executed airbrushed brown of your choice should do the job.
Don’t forget, light weathering will totally change the look anyway. 
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I did watch a acrylic weathering job vid last night, thought might be bit over the top. But eh more info for the man might be of use, I’ll go find it. Looked pretty cool, on a tank model. Still more tools in the box…
oops not acrylic…
Make Your Models POP! Easy Beginner Weathering Tutorial for a Pinwash on Model Tanks
Hmmm…
Maybe baby poo brown, is closer to the mark…
Here is my HCG Hero…(albit under night lights)
The smaller spatula mark, in closer, is the lacquer…
Full shot, body shot…
under crap night lighting.
I’m still keen to see what dark gunmetal grey looks like, on the barrel/vents/ stock…a near black colour, but just off…
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Looks to me a in between the two would be it.
I did read this… A quick PSA about different types of paint on ABS : r/Gunpla
But I don’t understand as I use lacquer on ABS plastic fine. Fk’d if I know… I just spray and pray 
Let’s see what the light of day brings 2morrow…
80% lacquer…20% acrylic…
Let’s call it Lacqurylic…!!
Or Acyl-Lacquer…
Which sounds like…
Accer-Dacker…!!
You’ve been…thunderstruck.!!!
For your dark gunmetal, you could always do what I did to my KELe Peacemaker and M16. Gunmetal grey Tamiya with a coating of translucent smoke Tamiya to darken it up.
It comes out well, looks metallic too, but not OTT👍
If you look at that M16 photo, the receiver and mag are both Tamiya gunmetal… the mag got a light smoke coating, the receiver got several smoke coats. The more smoke you apply, the darker it gets.
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Looks good,worth considering…
How much paint do you need.?
These paints seem to cost around $333 per litre…!!
Does your airgun kit, only consume small quantities.?
I’ve only used larger airguns, for painting fences etc…
That might be TS38 I used on my Clodbuster.
One 100ml can would do it with a few coats.
Bingo, Maiphut… TS38 it is indeed. 
And yeah, one $12 can goes a long way… certainly enough to do the PR bits.
And here’s the smoke I use to darken it up… TS71
Ok…
Full daylight shots.
This is the 2008 HCG Hero…probably the most colour accurate…
The smaller dab on the spatula, is lacquer (brown bess bottled)
Different depending on the angle, but reasonably close (assuming this was the reference colour).
The bunnings paint (larger dab) is darker/ browner…
Distance shot…
I could try, getting a bunnings trial pot, from this HCG colour, as its different from the bitsa…