I won’t bother posting pics…I’ve put them up before.
Net result…
Using 7.4v, I’m getting around 550 r/min
Using 8.4v getting around 650 r/min
I did a short burst with 11.1v …around 950 r/min
My custom build, was set up to take 11.1v , I wouldn’t risk any higher than 8.4v with these.
ROF is a little low, but that’s prob due to higher compression / better fps.
It makes the mags last longer, anyway…
And…
It fits the SW M41A battery compartments! 
OMG…!!!
i was wondering how they broke in, and filmed…
A squid must have slithered in, and scuttled security…!!
For those interested, uavme have the pulse rifle on sale for $750.00
Bit more affordable, if your keen…
Ok, painting time…
@friendlyfire has kindly offered to help, with repainting a Xforce pulsey, from Olive drab, to brown Bess.
We’ll also touch up other parts of the rifle. He has all the airgun painting gear, so life is good.
Problem one, which Brown Bess , is brown bess…??
How longs a bit of string.??
Which OCD leaning, is stronger??
In all seriousness, this subject has driven other hobbyists mad…trying to get the “right brown”, as it exists in your head…
I went through this, trying to match paint for furniture to my feature wall… and decided the easiest solution was to stop caring…!
There’s brown bess, and there’s brown bess… just pick one your happy with.
I have 3 contenders, for colour…
Mag cap off my HCG brown bess bitsa… its A brown bess. ( good enough for a source material)
Bunnings colour matched acrylic, from a scan of the above. Cheap, and plentiful…but water based acrylic.
Brown bess custom lacquer bottles. Some person has gone mad, trying to get it “right”, and this is their best effort. Sold in 30ml bottles, and apparently already thinned for spraying. I’ll grab some bottles from the local shop, and see what it looks like dried. High Hopes, and long lasting.
In the meantime, here is the mag cap, being compared to 2 coats of bunnings brown on paper and a plastic cap. The bunnings is a bit darker, but still a pretty good match…depends on different lighting conditions…
It all looks different under different lighting angles, and 2 coats applied by gloved finger vs air sprayed on.
Comforting to know its at least pretty close…
Local hobby shops have a total of 12 bottles, which i am grabbing, so hopefully 360mls is enough…
I’d go so far as to say that looks damn close… 
Ok, got the jars of brown bess.
Only time for one quick coat now, for a quick comparison…
The brown bess lacquer, is the smaller patch on each…
Except in the mag cap. The lacquer is the larger patch.
And herein, lies the problem/
Upon closer inspection, the mag cap i have, was originally olive green, painted by the previous dude.
Who knows what paint he used, and how accurate it was.?
Also, one coat of lacquer, vs 2 coats of acrylic…
I have my HCG original brown bess at my unit in clayfield, that would be a good a genuine match as any.
I’ll do a bigger sample area, 2 coats of each, and then compare…
Also, i got a darker “gun metal grey”, for darkening the stock / barrel shrouds…
Lacquer paint is stinky…!!
I’ll bring this photo down, for closer reference…
But once again, this is his “bitsa brown”, own paint…
Haven’t you got yourself in quite the conundrum. I like the darker personally.
You’ve got more than one pulse rifle. Do one in each and compare
Yeah, i like the acrylic so far, too…
the “Blasta Brown Bess” is not really popping, so far…
I’ll colour match off my HCG hero ( located at my unit) , which is probably based off the most colour accurate version.
At the end, just find a colour your happy with…
Here’s another pic of a HCG Brown Bess M41A…
I think the lacquer is a better match… 
It definitely should have a hint of green about it.
Hey if we start up a new thread for this under “Creator” can we title it…
“M41A Pulse Rifle Repaint (Or… Takin’ It Down To Brown Town)” 
Doing my head in already…!!
Someone mixed up two tamiya’s… brown and green at a 60/40 ratio…
I’ll do a larger 5x5 cm sample of each, to get a better idea…and see what this gunmetal grey looks like…
Dont talk me into getting another one…!!
Baby shit brown, or heavy constipation…??
Im crapping myself already…!!
If you use water based acrylic it won’t be as durable but you can always shoot a coat of flat clear over it after you weather it.
Ah, no guts no glory… jump in, it’s only paint.
In all honesty…the shroud doesnt cop that much handling or wear.
The grips, the pump etc handle most of it.
Maybe a lacquer base, and acrylic on top…??
When it finally wears through, it reveals a lighter, more durable brown under.?.?
Acryilic will work good as long as there is no flex in the plastic it tends to crack. Clear will help lock it in somewhat.
With this
as an example. Hard body ABS, with crashes will snap I did 4 coats of lacquer (Tamiya TS) for the colour. Let dry. Applied the stickers. Then 6 thick coats of TS13 clear to seal the stickers and everything. It’s held up well to multiple rollovers and endos.
The clear on top really helps . I’m not sure about lacquer then acryillic on top. Lacquer is more flexible and acrylic tends to be more flakey and less durable, but then depending on what mix and what it’s on. Acrylic you usually use on static models that don’t get hammered.
Not an expert in painting models etc just sharing my exp.
Do some trial sections first with both, inside somewhere that doesn’t matter. Then see what works best.
To add: with Tamiya PS paints for polycarbonate bodies that are flexible, that is lacquer too but bit different mix and spraying on the inside of the RC body so it does not get scratched off the outside. No clear needed. Polycarbonate bodies are clear. It’s different to what you are looking for I know but some does transfer across.
I wouldn’t overthink it… a well executed airbrushed brown of your choice should do the job.
Don’t forget, light weathering will totally change the look anyway. 
