I am trying different ways to write reviews. If you have any suggestions, please feel free to let me know, and I will continue to learn and improve. Today’s review is of the CYMA M4-CQB.
Battery:
XT30 (Standard configuration, can accommodate an 11.1V battery.)
Gearbox:
Unique V2 gearbox featuring a chamber positioned in the mid-magwell.
Features:
ESHOOTER red kestrel fire control system (gearbox upgrade with metal full threading, bearing bushing, bolt handle linkage ejector window/casing action), features magazine pre-load, metal gears, empty gear, and programmable functionality.
Material:
Durable nylon body with metal components （internal and external barrel, tail top mount, trigger, charging handle, receiver cover, front sling mount, weight compensator, rear sling mount, telescoping stock core, sear, metal gear）
External Features:
Barrel：
Included is an hop-up that allows for diy , with both the inner and outer barrels made of metal.
Rail：
2 short top rail, 2 short side rails and 1 bottom rail
Stock:
extendable, The battery compartment is located inside the stock (battery compartment length 15.4 cm).
Markings:
Directly UV print on the body (not laser-etched, many Chinese players have complained about this)
Thoughts:
The JD-100-3 M4-CQB version is really fun to play with. Its fire control system is extremely satisfying, and the overall manufacturing quality is also outstanding. Compared with the 2024 JD-100-2 version of the same brand, the JD-100-3 M4-CQB version undoubtedly offers a better out-of-the-box experience and manufacturing quality: it has upgraded from the fire control-free design of the JD-100-2 version to the latest ESHOOTER red kestrel fire control system. This fire control system can make the electric blaster more intelligent, reliable, and faster in response speed. At the same time, the shooting parameters of the electric blaster can be customized through programming, which is truly an amazing feature. In addition, the JD-100-3 M4-CQB version has added the action of the charging handle linking the ejection port and the magazine catch.
If you want to upgrade this gel blaster—for example, by replacing its receiver and gearbox with those from another brand (such as LDT)—you need to polish the receiver and gearbox of the other brand.
The airtightness of this blaster is not very good (CYMA intentionally made the airtightness poor, possibly to avoid exceeding the speed limit and violating regulations). If you want to upgrade the cylinder, after disassembling the cylinder, wrap it with raw tape and apply some airtight grease, and the performance score can be improved. The workload of the upgrade is moderate, but it has relatively high technical requirements.
In addition, CYMA’s magazine well is still relatively small compared to magazines of other brands. For instance, when using JINGJI magazines, although they can feed ammunition, they will be very tight, so this matching is not highly recommended.
Warm reminder: The water in the gel balls of the CYMA M4 fire control version must be drained thoroughly; otherwise, it may easily cause the pre-feeding function to fail. If the pre-feeding function fails, place the magazine and the body on the table to dry for a while, and it will return to normal. In addition, you must remember to remove the battery after playing; otherwise, it may easily cause the fire control system to burn out (this is a common issue with fire control systems).
Here are some photos I have taken. I hope this review is helpful to you. What do you think about this m4? Any upgrade ideas? Let’s chat in the comments!
Maybe it cannot find the gear index and after too long it stops.
When the gear makes a turn, there’s a sensor on the ETU that can detect the teeth and tells when to stop, when in semi-auto. If the ETU does not see the gear teeth, it just continues. After a while, there might be a safety logic that tells it to stop and make an alarm.
I can look into it but be patient with Rok is the best. They are fault codes. Rok knows what he is doing.
I can bust out my 9" on it if you want, that’ll really fix it. I told you sparky things don’t always work. You are in good hands. Have some patience young Padawan. For the sake of my brain
It will be on the bench this weekend @BME
Seems like trigger switch is depressed, I will find out. Have ability to contact eshooter now so one way or another it will be working!
Here is my video on it, good blaster with plenty of potential. I WILL be finding out how much at some point
I have problem to my gun, my shoot range is short now, when i bought this and my shoot range was wide range and now its short range is there a problem to my gun or what happen to gun?
M4A1
Sorry if I’m late, but what are the standard upgrades for a JD-100 v1 gearbox?
I’ve been trying to find out how do I maximise my RPS with 16:1 metal gearsets and tutorials on how do I maximise RPS.
The parts that I think I need are SHS Long Hi-Speed Motor, SHS 14 Teeth Piston, a thin shimming kit and an E&C gearbox v2 shell QD (I chose this one because it was the only one available at my country.)
And I also need recommended performance upgrades with a step-by-step tutorial. Do I also need a mosfet? If so then what mosfet should I get?( I am on a very tight budget)
Hey there mate, welcome to the Forum.
I’d suggest heading to the “Introduce yourself” thread and give everyone some background on where you are located and which particular Gelbaster model that you are needing help with.
More specific details will help the great community here to be able to recommend the right advice for your individual needs.
The cyma is a decent gearbox to learn on. A few points and questions for you.
Is the E&C gearbox the gel gearbox?
If so, they are okay just be sure to radius the cylinder corners, and aoe pad the head.
They last a good while, but have been cracking of late here in Australia after being in the wild for over a year.
As for parts… I would avoid the SHS motor. There are many cheap fake knock offs of them, and even the legitimate ones do not last as long as you would like. A Neo magnet Chi-Hai 480 motor of similar TPA/speed is a much better option. If it is your first build, a 30-35k motor and 18:1 gears is a better option.
Also, as a note, 16:1 gears are about 5% faster, but by design a bit noisier. I prefer to use a slightly faster motor and 18:1 than 16:1 gears.
You will not find a step by step guide, but I recommend watching shimming videos, and any videos that can give you some tips on the gearbox. The reason is especially for shimming no two sets of gearboxes, bearings/bushes, and gears are identical. The shimming process is the same but the shims used are NEVER the same.
As for mosfet, you do not need one. I use a lot of them, but they are the icing on the cake not the cake itself. Get the build right and then a mosfet can enhance and improve it, but if it is your first build it is more likely to complicate the build than help it. Get it running and right with the trigger switch, and add the mosfet once you are happy with how it works and you are done going in and out of the gearbox.
