I had a few good roots today 
so Iām right for the moment. Appreciate the offer 
It would depend on what material is used. PLA becomes malleable at about 50ā° and only gets softer from there, so potentially it could of warped in transit depending on where it was stored prior to being dropped off. If nothing else was warped and the package was undamaged than Iād say it was packaged like that, but then as Mai said youād think thatās unlikely.
Also just from what I can tell from the pics theyāve print with the muzzle end down, so itās printed along the depth rather than length, if that makes sense, you can see the layer lines. The weakest point of a print will always be at the layer line so you want to orientate it so the direction itās under stress is perpendicular to the layer. I wouldnāt be surprised if that were to failed around the ejection port.
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Thatās interesting and explains a lot.
The 50c wouldnāt be hard to achieve if a courier had the heater blasting with this weird weather and frosts might have cranked it. But then the other parts youād think be warped too.
Must be more the layers which I have no idea about but makes sence as that is a weak area, even the real ones break there. Interesting.
Potentially, if the extrusion isnāt consistent and creates pockets within the walls and layers that sit could possibly cause it to shrink or expand with temperature changes, much like if you had air pockets when pouring metal into a mold, once cooled that air pocket will become a week point.
It shouldnāt be too that extreme but it could potentially be a factor. ABS is notorious for wrapping but not even too they extent.
But as said multiple times, if no other parts in the pack that are also printed have warped, that rules out temperature to me, cause the smaller parts would be affected more quickly.
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that sucks dude I was looking forward to seeing the final product, hopefully they send a replacement to get you back on track
I got an AUG A3 kit where the front receiver was warped like thatā¦ printed in PLA. I tried to gently heat it with a heat gun and straighten it out but it lost all itās shape completely and wouldnāt go near fitting. Binned it in the end. 
Thatās a real bummer, BMEā¦ I know how keen you were to crack on with that project. 
im talking to the guy, sending him photos etcā¦
He should send me a new oneā¦and im giving him a nudge, to print it in higher temp plasticā¦
The rest of the major components fit.
Its gonna be a big unit, when fully assembledā¦
The other robocop kit i have, to go on the electric beretta (when i get my b709), is a bit smaller. It must be a bit scaled downā¦
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dont know if i should go gloss black, or matte blackā¦
i suppose i can paint half and half, each side, of the buggered slide, and seeā¦
do you give it a light sand, to remove the very slight print lines.?
What grade paper.?
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Iād give it a rub with 600 grit, then a rub with 1000 grit, then scotchbrite.
If you wanted to get really picky you could give it a coat with high fill primer before sanding, thatāll fill a lot of the print lines. 
Have you considered spraying it satin or semi-gloss? Having a bit of light reflection on the finish will help make all the details pop more. I wouldnāt go full gloss thoughā¦ might show up any print lines you miss and make it look too plastic
Which, of course, it isā¦ but we wonāt tell anyone. 
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For colour seems to be more of a gunmetal grey.
Up to you of course. Bit of discussion about it here I found RoboCop Archive :: View topic - Robo 1 Colour help
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I found thisā¦.
But, could be a bit hard to replicateā¦.
Very dark grey, going on blackā¦
Tamiya Gunmetalā¦
If itās not dark enough hit it with some opaque Tamiya smoke until you get the degree of darkness you want. 
Itās what I used on my KELe Peacemakerā¦ youāve seen thatā¦ it came out great with a very realistic metallic look. 
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Yeah I canāt see any issues with the rest of the parts so that practically confirms it was on their side to me.
You can sand it down no problem, and as Friendly said you can hit it with some fill primer.
I usually do a light sanding then a coat of primer, then another sand with some wet and dry to smooth it out, then colour.
āStay out of Troubleāā¦
This thing is freakin massiveā¦
It must be bigger, than burtonās Deagleā¦!!
When a standard beretta, fits under the triggerā¦!!
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Looks cool and about right as itās based off the made years ago 93R with 3 round burst and more triangular/chunky slide, selector, 20rnd mag, extended trigger guard etc. As the 93R is not widely available a lot of the movies were filmed with modified 92ās converted to auto hence why you get some movie sequences with longer than 3 bursts.
Then all the prop barrel extension stuff and removal of the 93Rās foregrip.
One of my favs for itās uniqueness and rarity.
More about it here I looked up
The RoboCop gun AUTO-9 (robocoparchive.com)
Always loved how firearms that have a burst function (usually 3 rounds) always seem to have magazine capacities that donāt match.
like the 93r you get like 6 3 round bursts but then thereās 2 rounds left. And the FAMAS from memory was issued with a 25 round mag, that 8 plus 2 left, and wasnāt the M16s that were burst issued with 20 round mags too?
I never understood why that was
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Probably just economicsā¦ one mag fits all.
I guess it doesnāt really matter when the weapon locks back on the last round anyway. Unless youāre OCD like me and youāre counting your rounds in your head.
I think itās only Hollywood that grooves on burst fireā¦ in most real steel military applications itās generally regarded as a good way to guarantee at least one shot from a badly aimed burst is going to hit itās intended target. Quantity of fire not quality.
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Itās more to do with logistics. Boxes of ammo come in even round counts 20 or 50 mostly. They stack more neatly and easier to stocktake on.
With the burst functions, depending on their ratchet system they fire what ever is left in the mag, but wonāt reset on the reload of fresh mag so instead of getting your 3rnd burst you get one shot which for a range toy who cares, but in a military use that is not good. Along with trigger slap in the M16A2 where it pushes back against your finger every round is what killed the M16 burst.
Ruger AC556 is another of my favs that had it but again not widely adopted besides police agencies. Trigger was better for slap, but again you get that un matching round count.
Fast forward to today. I donāt know of any new ones being made with 3rnd burst. Burst if used is usually 2rnd like the Kriss Vector in a heightened rpm, also the AN94. The current Russian issue AK12 that got accepted about 5 /6 years ago has a standard fire rate 2rnd burst along with semi and full. The black one you commonly see in the current news.
From what Iāve read, trigger problems, more complexity and not much gain has led to itās popularity decrease. Good idea from the 70ās and 80ās. But simpler to have semi and full with a decent trigger and recoil mitigation instead is the more popular route currently.