Easy choice today.
Super cheap is just down the road, so septone filler/ primer it is.
140 sandpaper is also something I hadn’t used on 3d prints before.
Removing the paint with 140 has helped.
Any way, drying and about to give the filler a whirl…
I find that 120/140 grit is good for prints cause it doesn’t shred the surface but it does take material off at a reasonable rate.
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If you could be bothered, multiple coats of the primer you’ve got with light sanding in between coats would eventually get you there… just takes longer. 
Got the paint off, with wet 140.
that removes a fair bit of material.
A good coat of filler / primer, and dry. Tacky feel when dry.
I used wet 600 to get it down to a smooth finish, while trying to preserve the filler.
Dont want to sand it all off…
A lot of the lines have diminished.
I’ve given it a good coat of gloss black, lets see how it looks 2morrow…
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That’s it, you want to sand it down so you can actually see the filler…filling the line gaps 
The worst part about it is all the dust that comes off it sanding it smooth.
All I read was “worst part is sanding” 
i used wet 600 while sanding down, so it all was washed away…
or , splashed back on me…!!
Its had 2 hrs drying in the afternoon sun, some lines are still there, but no where near as visible than before…
Those ones will be deeper lines, like there was a fluctuation in extruded material and it wasn’t a consistent flow.
Gloss is going to be the worst for showing up ANY flaw too, as with painting any other object like cars etc.
Worst case if you can still see the lines after the initial prime and sand you can hit it a 2nd time just to get those extra deep ones.
…“the worst part is sanding” …
I put on a 2nd coat tonight, in the hopes of it covering sins…
Lets see what 2morrow brings…
I just don’t enjoy sanding! Probably close second by filing metal parts to fit together.
The joyous tedium we must endure to make average things into great things!
You can keep the sanding, but personally, fitting metal parts together that aren’t meant to go together is what I get the biggest kick out of. 
Years of doing it, I suppose.
Why god invented grinders for
Ok…daylight.
The lines are still there, but greatly reduced.
I reckon, good enough, for now.
I can always sand down again at a later stage, if it really bothers me.
The grip is easy to do, the muzzle is a bit trickier.
The horizontal vents keep filling up, with each coat of paint, and are very hard to get in to sand down.
Dont want to get painting, and clog it up…
I could always order another couple of odd pieces, from Traywick, if need be…
Still a bit tacky, from 2 coats, so out for a bit of sun drying.
I know, I know, PLA…dont get it too hot…
Morning sun, and afternoon sun, with passing cloud cover…
Being painted, sunlight shouldn’t affect it at all. PLA goes soft at about 55⁰ from memory so unless it’s unnaturally hot outside it’ll be fine. If you left it in your car in the wind on the other hand.
It doesn’t take much to warp PLA, BME…
I’d be really careful leaving it in the sun. A PLA handguard I had warped slightly out of shape sitting in Oz Gel’s display cabinet… 
Todays a good day.
Warm, but overcast… lots of passing cloud cover, so not full brightness.
I reckon black paint, in full sunlight, would get very hot, very quickly…
Ok, progress…
Ding Ding, round two of the paint, and good enough for now.
Still showing lines, but they are less pronounced than before.
Muzzle is better, more on the grip.
The grip requires a bit more fettling to fit back on. and function with the empty slide lock release lever…
Looking at the photos is stating to annoy me, so i might have to do something about it…
Grrr…supposed to be fun.! 
Don’t know why it’s being difficult for you (I say that as in it doesn’t seem to be working like it’s supposed too not that you’re doing it wrong)
This was was the last full paint job I did on a part, was printed standing up on the barrel nut so the layers run perpendicular to the length of it, same process I described earlier but practically zero visible layer lines
Stock is a different story, there’s clear layer lines at certain parts that were too deep for a once over with filler but the rest is pree5clean
I don’t know what printer or settings they used to do the parts but they could probably do a better job to start with, especially seeing as some parts were warped to begin with.
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By the time i take the grips off and muck around, they might end up marked.
If thats the case, i’ll sand down again, and try again.
I gave it a good coat of filler, and just a light (wet) sand afterwards…but who knows.
Its better than round 1.
As long as it’s improving, that means you’re getting better 