That is something worth looking at. Often not a issue in modern metal boxes, but can be.
With SHS gears or equivalent, they are tougher than people think. You don’t need every bit of tooth contact you can get, you are actually better to have clearance and a bit of lateral movement with slightly less contact than having it super close.
This often means having a bit of extra clearance between the spur and bevel, as the sector often needs to be low, which also means the spur needs to be lower.
You are always better to have clearance and free spinning gears, than having maximum tooth contact. Over time, I have preferred to have a slightly larger gap/clearance vs maximum contact. I used to go for just “seeing light” between the gears, now I go for that plus 0.1-0.2. Though sometimes things do need to be very close, every box is a little different.
Plenty to do and check before I start over the top half is done though with a new T238 piston and one of these piston heads. Fortunately this gear box comes pre radiused
We’re heading off for 4 days of hunting and fishing so that’ll be a next week job
Cool so am I but be team blue crew, blow some euro trash katoomies away Going to be wicked with pro racers. Infiltrate sicktoria. pick @Deadsquid up at around 100klm/hr See @BME I’ll just ride over and get him Kidding of course but most about right.
Couldn’t get the slightly damaged 13:1 gears to play nice so I chickened out and bought new ones
For sale: Slightly damaged SHS 13:1 gears - interesting trades considered
New ones are in and I think they’re set up right. Hard to tell from pics and videos, I know — but if the good folks here in the know wouldn’t mind having a quick look before I hook the motor up, I’d really appreciate it
Looks and sounds like it’s getting there mate.
Looking good! As you say hard to tell from photos and videos but looks good and hope the rest goes well too
Back together and the gearbox was sounding fantastic, could hardly hear any “gear” noise at all, so that was great.
Blaster reassembled then started test firing and had the same intermittent feeding issues as before, seat magazine and it would fire the first 5 or 6 rounds, then maybe 2 or 3 at a time. After about 3 or 4 magazines worth I’d figured out it was something to do with the magazine seating. That little nubbin that pushes down when you seat a magazine and lets the gels past the feed tube appeared to be not getting pushed down far enough. I taped that nubbin down with some duct tape and it fed almost flawlessly.
At this point the gearbox started making unpleasant noises so I pulled up stumps, that was Friday. Took it apart this afternoon and fortunately I haven’t broken anything this time. Cant see any visible damage on gears or piston rack.
Here’s a quick video of the gears after it started marking unpleasant noises, doesn’t appear to have seized up.
Test after the unpleasant noises with the top half of the gearbox off
At a bit of a loss at this point, the handgrip has been a bit dicky getting the motor sitting right so possibly its a motor height issue when the motor is installed into the grip.
Could it be a premature engagement issue with the 13:1 gears? running an M100 spring and at this point it is not short stroked.
Just remembered — with the top half of the gearbox off, I ran the bottom half on and off for about 15 minutes to simulate gameplay. The motor got so hot that even the motor adjustment screw was hot to the touch. Could it be that the motor is working too hard due to resistance somewhere in the gears?
Motors get hot, even if run with no load for some time. Energy being turned into rotational force through magnetism/induction will do it just a fact of life. Especially if an 11.1v is used with no load.
As for the gel stopper, commonly on my cymas running ldt tpiece and gen8/SLR mags I add a couple mm of material to the gearbox to contact the stopper. One of those annoying gel things.
If only all manufacturers could agree on one style of mag and tpiece/gearbox location.
27rps will test mags capability of feeding too. Drums? Not without faster motors in them. And even then they struggle to keep up near 30rps.
Same for any with an intermediate gear between the worm drive and feed wheel like gen9 mags.
Thought the ldt mosfet was being a bit dicky so swapped it out with an eshooter basic that I’d pulled out of another blaster. While installing that I broke the trigger switch on it, tiny bloody thing that I’ll never be able to repair.
On a more positive note fitted a different pistol grip that we had spare which seems to be giving me a more consistent motor height.
Broke a battery terminal…
May have found a possible cause of the feeding issues, the t piece was too long causing the upper and lower to be extremely difficult to put together. Trimmed down the t piece (I have a spare!) to give that a try.
Time to put it all back together tomorrow and try again
Yeah the fit and functionality of the eshooter is good, but the trigger switch is so shit, an unless your are a professional electronics wizard there is no chance of replacing it successfully.
If only they had a nice switch like the ldt or t238 basic… easy to replace.
Unfortunately there is never all positives for anything in mosfets, some part of it always has a down side.
And that applies all the way up to the most expensive ETU.
Good to hear mate, might have been the old grip just slightly misaligned with the motor and gearbox once in the receiver.
My easy solution is to cut a ton of little squares of aluminium tape, and just keep placing it on the nubbin and insert the mag and check until it pushes it down enough.
Also… nubbin… if like to move that it is now the official name of the gel stopper pusher thing for us all from this point on!
best name I could come up with. Second that motion
