Wisdom you have…
Guns you will make, young padawan… guns strong with the force…
Maybe a good ole gen8 would shoehorn in?
" Gearboxes…lead to ideas…
Ideas…lead to action…
Action…leads to frustration…
I sense many gearboxes, in you…"
Well its finally nearly almost complete. Tested and runs great on ihobby gels (no idea if this is “good” in current gel, its been a while since i played)
- looks great as well. Sunday well spent.
3 Likes
Bloody beautiful work mate, should be very proud of the finished results 
2 Likes
Wow, that is very cool 
One I did while the forum was down, so didn’t get any photos of inside even though it was ongoing for two weeks! Idiot!
It had a cyma metal gearbox, which came out of another blaster and just needed a cylinder changed and short stroking to drop fps to under 300 for indoor field use. Opened it and found it had internal bearing 13:1 super shooter gears, which I didn’t want to pour filings into and decided to change to 12:1 SHS gears.
Shortened by 4 teeth, I shimmed them up, and then decided to put a t238 ETU in to make quicker trigger response and shorter trigger pull and reliable semi auto for indoors.
At this point I discovered I needed to file down the trigger switch post. I had a spare cyma metal gearbox I got second hand that already had that done… so then changed to that… And reshimmed again into that one.
I then printed a new terminal plate to accept gen8 and SLR mags, and a tpiece extension for the cyma tpiece.
Then I decided it was in for a penny in for a pound… 28k brushless t238. Which didn’t play nice with the grip it had so got a different one!
Also filed the trigger and safety, so it has very short pull but safety works. And trimmed down the trigger spring so it operates with less effort.
It’s now 12:1 short 4 teeth, m100, t238 basic ETU and 28k brushless t238 motor. Does 285fps, super quick semi auto, and if you feel naughty it does 30rps in auto! I am loving these blue t238 brushless motors for $100ea, very good value performance and efficiency.
Now I have to decide what blaster the 25k long brushless will go in to test out.
Outstanding work mate, and quite refreshing to hear good feedback for the T238 products, as there’s many heroes online bagging the shit out of any T238 branded parts whether they have ever used them or not 
It’s all about real world performance, not GUCCI expensive name brand dick measuring competitions.
If the product fits and works to the expectations required at a good price, then would have to be an idiot to write them off just because of the brand name alone 
Gotta admit that that sight and riser is sending shivers down my spine though 
2 Likes
Haha yeah as I use a mask indoors it was either that or a drop stock, and as grandpa Simpson said once “I’ll be deep in the cold cold ground before I use a drop stock!”
I have had a good experience with t238 tbh. Yes I had one fail out of the gate, but it may have been something I did. I did contact them, and had I not owned it for months before installing it they would have replaced it so if you install it yourself, competently they are a good option… I am yet to have one fail from use and a couple are nearly 3 years old in were in workhorses.
The etus are getting better with time too, they have finally recognised they need to be insulated and include a sticker for the boards though I still use electrical tape as well. and for me the basic 1.9 ETU is about $35-40, easy to install, comes with a deans already attached just solder on the mag terminals, and I know it will semi auto everytime. If I have to replace a switch block this is easier and only a fraction more expensive in parts, and I know it will work. With a trigger trolley that’s having issues you don’t know how long it will take!
So far I’d prefer their brushless over warheads, and they also work with their ETUs that have hard wired active brake. Bonus. Admittedly I can’t say that for the long term as testing will take another year for that, but seeing Azraels ditch warhead in favour of t238 brushless makes me think they have the same experience.
Above all value plus, ETUs quite often have enough features you’ll be happy, where a perun or leviathan may be “better” they are in case of leviathan 2-5 times dearer depending on your application! That means alot when you have nearly 50 blasters! And most are set and forget, so in case of leviathan your are paying for a lot of functions you don’t use or need. They are good, but they aren’t for every case especially if you have value in mind.
2 Likes
Great advice
I had completely forgotten about their ETU’s !
Makes a lot of sense to use one over the stock setup with rocker arms, springs and levers being able to be deleted for a much simpler and reliable setup
I’ve heard of a couple of people who had issues with some T238 products being dud new out of the box and writing off the whole brand, but the reality is that it’s no different to many electronics out there in the world of mass production.
I learnt to bench test EVERYTHING when I was in the Hot Rod/Classic/Muscle Car building industry.
The amount of new parts, from simple LED lights right through to MSD ignitions that were faulty brand new was quite common.
Better off to bench test everything first instead of completing a full build and having to go back through the whole wiring systems to try and find out why something isn’t working
2 Likes
Got the handguard printed, still needs a sand and see how this wood filament goes with a stain but it printed pretty good, definitely has that raw timber feel to it.
Stock pieces just finished this morning but didn’t get to check those before work but looked good too.
6 Likes
Interesting. What is it exactly, surely can’t be wood 
Looks really good
Started tearing down the aug from ausgel sales… radiused gearbox and put a 2mm aoe pad in. To avoid the gearbox breaking. Got a spare so not a huge deal!
Also super strength epoxied the rack in the piston, the JG piston isn’t bad but I’ve always used SHS instead and have a boat load of JG pistons so why not send a few!
I have since the photo replaced the bushes with better ones, started shimming 13:1 gears though waiting for a 25k brushless t238 to come to keep shimming.
Also discovered why it originally sounded like a bag of bees. At maximum adjustment the pinion was still nearly 2mm to deep. Shouldn’t be a problem with the brushless, I did press the pinion down so I can ballpark the shimming better while waiting for brushless to come.
Slow progress but in no rush.
Also got an approved b709a for the APC 9K so ordered that on Friday. Actually quite excited for that. Always nice to have something not m4!
1 Like
yeah it’s a wood infused filament, i.e. they blend in wood “particles” (basically sawdust) into the plastic to give it the look and feel of wood and it allows you to stain it like wood too cause the particles absorb said stain. I’ve used other brand stuff before with pretty good results but that stuff goes real brittle quickly if you don’t use it, but this is a new blend from Bambu and there’s like 5 different shades/colours.
yet to give them a sand and stain so will see how well that goes. the raw prints have almost no visible layer lines but that’s usually where the stain wants to sit so will probably come through more in the end.
5 Likes
Nice work on the upgrades. Kicking myself for not grabbing a spare gearbox myself, great idea. Noob question here, I can’t seem to find anywhere online that states the inner barrel dimensions for the JG Aug . Would you know off the top of your head RokSolid? I am looking to fit a slim hop up inside the flash hider or a mock suppressor but it seems to be a loose fit. Is the inner barrel smaller than a 9.5mm OD?
Ausgel still have some AUG gearboxes available, not sure when the sale ends though.
From memory they were a 9.5mm od and 7.3mm id, about 500mm long. I am going from memory, will have an actual look in the next few days, as my plan was to use a sweetheart hopup, shorten the inner barrel by about 40-50mm so it is hidden behind the flash hider. I had noticed a bit of movement in the standard outer barrel which is only held in by a grub screw, used a bit of aluminium tape to tighten it a little to remove some movement.
My endgame is to design and print a outer barrel/handguard to shorten the overall length to just in front of the standard foregrip to make it a “CQB”. Main reason is to shorten the inner barrel to a more optimal VE, under 400mm ideally. Currently looking at freely available files. Would be nice if I can just find one that works and modify an existing model rather than design from scratch but either way I can figure it out; I just prefer to be lazy where possible!
I may pick up a spare tpiece and another barrel, then I can easily swap back to original form if wanted. Would be pretty versatile in shorter form though, I just like options.
2 Likes
Yeah I found running a 7.3 IB makes the VE on any bullpup better… for obvious reasons. And the better quality gels currently available make that tighter bore a more viable option these days.
Run those on all three bullpups I have (Steyr AUG, FS2000, QBZ Type 95) just to balance the scales a little.
Oh that made me remember, how do you get the inner/outer barrel out of the handguard assembly on those JG Augs? I can get the front end off no problem but the rest doesn’t want to come apart.
The outer barrel comes out after removing a grub screw above the front grip. Also recommend a little Loctite on that grub screw.
Inner barrel should come out easily through the rear once the upper receiver is removed.
Hmm ok, will have a look for this grub screw, according to the sheet that comes with it there’s a little nub on the underside that sorta rotates and is supposed allow the barrel to rotate on a couple of lugs and slide out, I can see the lugs and the cutouts for it to pass through but it just doesn’t want to rotate enough, it must be that grub screw locking it in then.
The inner barrel/t-piece is pretty well locked in for me, will have another look when I get home.
Thanks.