Don’t know if it has been already posted but I am wondering what upgrades I should do on my cyma, I know that there are gears and springs and metal v2 gear boxes but what fits? I am a beginner and this is my first blaster and I have no idea what I am doing. Help.
Basically every Gelblaster is exactly the same when it comes down to the standard upgrades that are required, regardless of model or brand name.
Check out this video and apply the same parts and checks to get your CYMA up to the basic levels of performance 
*** EDIT *** Do not ever fit a metal tappet plate into a Gelblaster no matter whatever anyone says!
As a newbie to modding, I’d put gears on the backburner for a while and get your chops up with some easy mods first. Assuming your running nylon gears now (in the orange nylon gearbox), you can get pretty decent performance by looking at some basic areas to improve.
Those boxes are pretty good standard, and it’s advisable to take care of any airseal issues before anything else. Easy to do with upgraded parts. Swapping out the factory piston o ring to a better green or brown o ring and replacing the nylon cylinder head and nozzle with upgraded alloy o ring items should improve compression substantially.
Add a bit more oomph by changing the piston spring over from 1.1mm to a 1.25 unequal spring. You could use an M90 or M100 spring, but the unequal spring will be gentler on your nylon gearset. Your CYMA will easily handle 11.1v lipos, so should be snappy enough for a first blaster.
Those mods should see your CYMA hitting around the 280FPS mark and should be reliable and last a while. I wouldn’t dabble with metal gearsets just yet. The benefit is you can run stronger springs for more FPS but they require correct setting up and shimming. Get it wrong and you run the risk of destroying your gearbox or worse, causing a lipo meltdown because of a seized gearbox and potentially losing your entire blaster.
That is right, I am on nylon gears and the specific gun is this
CYMA Warhawk - M4 CQB Gel Blaster Rifle with hopup - Black - JD100BK – VIPERTAC.
The “Warhawk” is no different than the CYMA/JUND JD100 in the linked video above, just has been given a different name for some reason 
Any upgrades to any of the CYMA M4’s are the same across the board no matter what they look like or what they are called 
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Yep, what DocBob said. 
same gearboxes in the nylon CYMA SCARS for example.
Take your time, do your research (definitely watch the video Doc linked above, Low Guido’s videos on Youtube are really helpful) and don’t get in over your head with unnecessary mods at this point. It’ll just confuse you. Much better to stick to basics and understand how your blaster works so that if a mod or upgrade causes problems you’ll know what to look at to fix it.
We all started out knowing zip, the best way to up your knowledge is experience. Provided you don’t break anything, nothing is irreversible.
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Thank you for your patience, time and understanding!
What is the difference between a mosfet and a standard switch as stated in the review doc bob sent, I have the same trigger issue, will this fix it or not, and what is a cheap one
Standard trigger switches no matter how old the model blaster, including anything from the original Gen8 era right through to modern standard V2/V3 Gearboxes operated off of a mechanical contact switch.
These obviously work fine in standard blasters, but by simply adding 11.1V batteries, heavier springs or upgraded Motors will burn them out very quickly through the increased voltage/amperage/loads imposed upon them.
MOSFETS take the loads off of the trigger circuit that supplies power from the battery to the motor, which greatly improves electrical efficiency and reduces stress associated with the trigger switch.
Back in the old days with my insane “Little Piggy” 430-450 FPS Nylon Gen8 build, I originally replaced the original Gen8 trigger switch with a 10A unit, but even that pretty quickly proved that it wasn’t up to the task at hand.
From there I used my Electronics education and was making my own custom MOSFETS that I squeezed into those old Gen8’s and SKD HK416’s to make them handle extreme power loads to achieve those results without failing……… simple because MOSFETS/FCU’s were totally unheard of in the Gelblaster industry, let alone available to buy online! 
Think yaself lucky that this hobby has progressed so far that Leviathan/Perun/T238 products exist on the market as simple plug and play products
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Hi all,
New to gel blasters and new to this forum.
I just bought my first blaster (after basically zero research-stupid and not like me usually).
When you get to touch, feel and shoot with them for the first time that feeling is the best! Pretty much just bought with adrenaline! lol.
Anyway, have been creeping this forum the last 2 days since I got it. Awesome place btw.
Seems I have the CYMA m4a1 cqb (bought as as a Warhawk m4a1 v100 from oz blasters in surfers paradise)
This thread has the most info I could find for my blaster and best advice.
So keen to jump straight into mods straight away, and really just want to try and get it right. I’m thinking of just a few basic ones first. Not really setting it up for comp, just more shooting targets at home, having fun with it/making it look cool. I like using it on semi auto (not really into full auto all the time)
Below is a list of easist/coolest ones I want to do.
Any tips on where to buy or how to do would be awesome (also best tools/kit to buy for opening up and playing around)
I want to do…….
Scope (acog/red dot) probably something cheap, more for looks
Green O ring (will increase performance and should be easy to do?)
Larger mag (as an extra mag too)
11v li-pos battery (have the long blue 7v)
Longer barrel (I believe mine has an alloy barrel, hopefully increase range/accuracy?)
Silencer (do they actually work? possibly hides longer barrel?)
Rail mounted laser (hopefully can be setup to work on targets?)
Metal gears and spring (these seem hardest and I’m not sure at all what to look for/what I’m doing)
Anyway, any tips for a noob would be greatly appreciated. Thought I’d just post this essay in this thread as it seem pretty relevant to my style blaster.
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The thing about the 11v batteries is that using them with nylon gears with blow up your gearbox eventually. I’ve done this twice now.
That’s not a bad thing as the you can add a metal box etc, but a metal gearbox, a good one is not cheap, so after some research I got a metal CYMA type M4…the GBX.
It weights twice the nylon CYMA M4, runs a metal gearbox and is a solid performer except…when running 11v batteries I blew the trigger and now have to add a MOSFET trigger. 
Basically running 11v batteries which is lots more fun than 7v 
increases load across the entire firing mechanism, so expect to be rebuilding your nylon M4…alot…which in itself is a great way to learn, but if you don’t want that, then buy a full metal blaster.
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Welcome to the forum! 
I’m sure your journey down the rabbithole will be as much fun for you as it is for us. 
Here we go…
First off, not at all a bad choice for a first blaster. CYMA M4s are pretty solid units, even the entry level nylon ones. The orange nylon gearboxes in them are great for what they are and will last a while if you look after them and don’t overspring and punish them too much. I have a nylon geared CYMA M4 built up into an M16A3 and the gearbox is hanging in there just fine even after some months of use.
I’ve had no issues running an 11.1v lipo in it with an M90 spring, and I know @DocBob has had a lot of success with these gearboxes too.
Upgrades? Assuming you’re keeping it nylon geared for now, the main thing to address is improving airseal, so an alloy piston head with upgrade o ring, cylinder head and nozzle are usually the first things installed. Get your airseal tight and you won’t need to run big springs to get good FPS. I’d suggest something like a 1.25 unequal spring for the piston as unequal springs are gentler on nylon gears than equal springs.
Swapping over to a tighter bore barrel can be a quick way to up your FPS and improve accuracy, but be aware the tighter bores like 7.3mm and 7.2mm can be problematic with ultra hard gels that aren’t sorted by size. Larger gels may cause frequent barrel jams, I’d stick to the OEM 7.5mm barrel to avoid that.
That’s about it for a good way to start… swapping nylon gears and pistons for metal requires a bit of aptitude, and knowledge of shimming technique, but it’s a good skill to learn. Often blasters that come with full metal gearboxes need reshimming due to a dodgy job in the factory. There’s plenty of tutorial content on Youtube to give you an idea, I’d recommend Low Guido’s Chop Shop to any newbie looking to get into modding.
Have a crack, have fun with it… plenty of forum members in here who are happy to help if you get a little stuck or confused. Remember, there are no dumb questions… we all started out knowing very little.
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A few things I would note, longer barrel doesn’t really make them more accurate, just easier to get higher fps, but the barrel in these is sufficient to get the fps an m-rated spring states so I wouldn’t worry about it. Once you have done a better cylinder head and nozzle and green oring, the air will be making it down the barrel to send gels consistently which is more where you get consistent shots.
If you want to do metal gears, I would grab one of these
A quick look you can get a stock cyma nylon box for $30. My recommendation is to get a spare gearbox, a 480 motor with metal pinion, shims, metal rack piston with a piston head and a metal anti reverse latch. I would recommend starting with an m90 spring, but you could do an m100 on these boxes safely.
If you get a pistol grip also, you could build the gearbox and test it works before opening your perfectly working stock blaster, and once happy swap it over.
This way, you have a spare gearbox and if it all gets too much at once, you can at least run your blaster and still have fun as is.
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I have 3 CYMA’s that re used regularly in games. Stock gearboxes can handle an M90 on 11.1v without any problems. You will find that if you upgrade the spring you will need a good quality 7.4v battery or 11.1v.
The cylinder head and nozzle are unique to CYMA. Make sure they are for CYMA. 100% cylinder is a good option for CYMA/Jund M4.
Metal geared they can run M100/11.1v all day
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@Marnza
Yes the issue with 11.1V, heavier springs and Nylon Gears/Piston is the extra speed and torque applied over the 7.4V batteries.
Especially when using constant semi auto fire… which puts a LOT more pressure on the motor and gearbox 
Definitely get yourself a metal geared CYMA Box, especially considering how cheap they are, and you will have nothing holding you back from future upgrades
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Other mod that impacts usability is to replace the handguard with nylon SLR handguard and add pop-up sights (remove triangle front sight)
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Welcome aboard, quite a few here with good reports and knowledge on the Cyma models I see you are getting good advice from. Cheers
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Hello Everyone!!!
New to gel blasters as well but not new to modding stuff since I came from the foam blaster hobby.
I just got a Jund 100 that came with metal gears and a metal inner and outer barrel, everything seems to work well but when I took it apart I saw that the stock nozzle wobbles inside of the T-Piece and I’m not sure if the nozzle is just too small (it still has the rubber) or if the T-Piece is too large, what could I do to fix it and is it also possible to convert it to use other magazines instead of Cyma ones since it’s pretty hard to find in my country.
Is it an orange t-piece? Nozzles always seem to have a bit of wobble in them from what I’ve noticed but I’ve never payed attention to it honestly.
If the blaster was 2nd hand then it possibly could be miss matched parts.
As for the mag there’s a few on here who have gotten other mags to work in these blasters, it has to do with the mag catch location and food tube length as far as I’m aware.
It’s the orange t-piece, and it’s brand new as well so it couldn’t be from mismatched parts
It functions fine (haven’t chronoed yet to check for consistency) but I’m not just familiar if this is normal with gel blasters in general