I wanna say it’s normal, but again I haven’t really taken notice of it cause any issues I’ve had weren’t related to nozzles.
Stock they should be around 230-240 fps from memory, depending on gels.
Although if it’s the metal gearbox shell one it might be more up around 300fps, housemate had one of those and I had to lower the spring in order to play at our local field with a limit of 300fps.
Gears stripped after only a few sessions and had to swap them out for proper CNC’d gears, yet the orange nylon gearbox one I had ran like a champ till I decided to upgrade it.
Make sure the t-piece is properly seated in the gearbox. Sometimes the lip catches on the end of the gearbox which won’t seat the nozzle fully.
Gen 8 magazines can be used but you need to get an adapter to extend the length of the t-piece. Not sure where they are available at the moment but it is a 3D printed part.
I thought that too when I started tinkering and made up a sleeve to take up that space… it didn’t work.
There should always be clearance between the nozzle end of the t piece and the the nozzle itself… a fair bit actually. How neat the nozzle is in the t piece isn’t relevant to sealing.
The nozzle’s straight line trueness of travel is dictated by the cylinder head. If the nozzle’s wobbly on the cylinder head, that’s not good. But if it’s fairly neat but still free all the spare air around the nozzle doesn’t matter. The tappet spring pulls it out to it’s sealing position against the gel which should be sealed against the barrel end of the t piece and all’s good.
That’s why sometimes we space out the nozzle rubber to get a better seal on the gel.
Was this an upgraded blaster as the Jund 100 normally has a nylon gearbox with nylon gears?
One mistake people make when they upgrade a CYMA is to use a Gen 8 cylinder head. This will cause a loose nozzle as the gen 8 cylinder head has a longer inner nozzle that doesn’t match the CYMA tappet
I bought it brand new like this, I was even surprised that aside from metal gears it also came with a metal inner and outer barrel, what other nozzle/t-piece/cylinder head can I use with this? or do I strictly have to stick with Cyma stuff?
it’s fairly straight inside of the T-piece, I just got surprised that it doesn’t fully seal against the T-piece since I thought it’s where an air leak would come from
It does seal but it’s the chambered gel that creates the seal.
It can be tricky swapping V2 and Gen 8 components for sure. I stripped the nylon gearset on my UMP Gen 8 today, threw in a blue set of CYMA gears, cycles fine but that V2 sector gear doesn’t play well with the Gen 8 tappet plate. I kinda knew it wouldn’t but you can dream.
Big difference between blue CYMA gears and Gen8 tappet plates in their timing and travel.
Certainly easy to modify the CYMA to run Gen8 higher flow cylinder heads and nozzles for big air volume shifting, and also handy to have some cheap old nylon outer barrels to use as mag tube extensions @Wombat
Yeah, I knew it wouldn’t work but I was frustrated, hot, sweaty and waiting to be called to the table for my slow cooked smokey Texas brisket… so I threw them in anyway.
Tomorrow it’ll get a Gen 8 gearset and be choochin’ again.
When the Nozzle rubber bottoms out in the T piece that is when the air seal happens on the front surface or tip. Forward of the feed tube.
I think the circumference size you refer to definitely does not matter in your case if it’s stock. You need some play there or it’ll bind up during it’s stroke.
As for the T piece solid against the gearbox usually needs to happen or you can get variation in the sealing of the nozzle tip when it bottoms out in the T -piece. The use of o rings to space the nozzle out or in the seat of the t-piece is a common hack.
It’s also amazing how many blasters came across my work bench with t-piece sealing issues, because the midnight fairies had been in there and forgotten to put the barrel spring back when they reassembled the handguard
Basically replicating a .50 cal reciprocating inner barrel every time they fired it
If I get this nozzle and T-piece would it help? and would I still be able to run a Cyma mag along with Gen8 mags with this one? or is it better to just get the nozzle since it looks the same as the stock Cyma one
Don’t go buying any parts until you ask a few questions here and show evidence of the particular problem you think you are having.
Take a video of the wobble that you are talking about, and then we can see if you actually have an issue or not, as well as give advice on how to properly fix things instead of just wasting time and money buying random parts for something that you aren’t even sure about
That looks pretty normal honestly. Usually the t-piece is held in place by the barrel and a spring (as Doc mentioned) over the inner barrel pushing it back onto the gearbox, it’s always gone have a bit of play in it.
If you look at the inside of the outer barrel where it goes into the receiver there’s cutouts where the wings on the t-piece slide into when it’s together and that’s what aligns everything.
CYMA have that lip on the gearbox side of the t-piece that holds it in alignment, LDT uses little notches and grooves to do the same thing, most other brands do either one of these methods.
