The one he has pictured has a different gearbox end design to the CYMA?
Its been a while, but I thought those t-pieces with the two locating slots are not only a smaller diameter but also don’t locate in the front of the CYMA gearbox because of those slots and diameter difference? 
Might have to go digging through some parts and see if they work or not, as I do have some of those t-pieces and a few CYMA boxes somewhere!
The CYMA t-pieces don’t have the locating nubs on the gearbox, it was the LDT. The CYMA just has a wider cutout around the nozzle that it sits in but it had bigger wings I think.
That’s exactly what I was trying to say, that the t-piece he pictured won’t fit the CYMA gearbox, because the opening in the front of the gearbox is bigger diameter, designed to have the CYMA t-piece to recess/locate into.
The t-piece pictured has the two locating lugs, which gearboxes have a smaller diameter hole in front of the gearbox with the locating slots cut out.
If he tried to use that t-piece in a CYMA, it wouldn’t fit, wobble around and not be the right length for the nozzle travel/seal anyways 
Apologise, couldn’t load or watch that video previously, but that orange t-piece is definitely the correct CYMA part 
Of course it’s not locating properly because you have the Blaster disassembled.
The spring that sits between the barrel and handguard locks the t-piece into place once the Blaster is fully assembled 
If you push the t-piece home into the gearbox and seat it using the spring over the inner barrel and barrel adapter, then the t-piece will not wriggle about. It hasn’t been seated home in the video. T-piece and nozzle look normal
Apologies Bob - didn’t read your post above before replying to video
One thing I should have mentioned about changing a cyma box to run ldt tpiece and nozzle is that you have to change the barrel adaptor, or make something up so the tpiece sits as the wings on the cyma tpiece are thicker than the ldt one. Meaning it won’t locate true, will have movement and the feed tube can rock a about. All things you do not want.
The cyma tappet, nozzle and tpiece is good. Capable of very high rps and fps and will feed reliably.
The 3d print model I have is for the cyma metal box, but I should see if it works with the nylon one. If it does need modifying it would only be slightly. Makes it very easy to run gen8/SLR mags, but does mean cyma mags won’t work.
Fortunately it is just a friction fit sleeve with a piece that clicks on the gearbox to push the gell ball stopper.
I’ve never seen any reason to change the CYMA setup either… unless you’re doing specific mods like RokSolid.
@Omu if you want to check how solid your setup is, poke your finger up the magwell with the blaster assembled and push the t piece forward. It’ll move forward against the spring slightly and spring back against the gearbox, but I’ll guarantee you won’t feel any wobble.
Yep because it’s an LDT T piece. Can trip up the new. I never did it by accident to find out LOL
For the record was a supplier fk up not mine.
My apologies too mate, I was only commenting on the black LDT piece in his pics, as I couldn’t down/watch the video at the time, so didn’t see the proper orange CYMA t-piece he was talking about
I tried just now and yeah it is solid, albeit with a bit of an leak between the nozzle and the t-piece so I might need to know how I can solve that
@RokSolid I have a 3d printer so I could give that a try
The old o-ring in the t-piece trick will fix that, if it’s leaking really bad?
is it possible to place an o-ring inside a nozzle with no grooves for the o-ring?
Oh my bad I thought you were referring to the vid, I didn’t even recognise the images on the previous posts 
Not sure what you refer to grooves. Most effective is space the rubber out from the nozzle. Manufacturers did it.
Any suggestions to improve trigger response on the CYMA nylon box. Want to reduce trigger weight and the distance before engaging.
I think what you are describing is trigger sensitivity, which really can’t be done with the traditional trigger block/trolley setup, especially if you want the safety to still work and have a reliable semi auto.
I have been using loads of these T238 DTU V2 BASIC(V1.9) For V2 Gearbox
You can shave the trigger and bend the switch arm to make it as sensitive as you like, also eliminates the pull through and reset. Works well with a “speed trigger”, or you can make your own by just tapping a m3 grub screw in the trigger to reduce the travel if you like, I personally like a little take up, and can just have the trigger ready to activate the switch but still be confident to have an ND, as I am a clutz haha.
Trigger response is what I define better as “cycle time”. Response from when trigger is pulled until a gel is lobbed over there. This is best done with high speed gears and a high torque motor. I prefer to do this first, the finish a blaster with an ETU, as a blaster with an ETU but no other mods still has a slow response time, even though the sensitivity is higher.
I was comparing the trigger weight and length of travel between the BF MP5K and the CYMA. The BF has lighter trigger weight and shorter travel before it fires the gel. Cycle time is fine on both, (the CYMA already has metal 16:1, M100 and upgraded motor), but the CYMA has a higher trigger weight, longer travel and longer reset. This is primarily for semi-auto use. In real steel it would be a sear modificaion
Cymas do seem to have a very pronounced pull into wall, and long reset. I like how they feel but they are not good for frequent semi only use.
One thing I have done to change trigger weight is modify the trigger spring. Shortening the long arm slightly will reduce it, or just place a small bend in it. Doing it in small increments is best, as if you go to far it won’t reset in semi.
