Hey guys,
I have a new metal CYMA magazine that came with my daughters SLR ION.
Having an issue where it jams usually once every magazine to the point where it needs to be taken apart and cleared. Using Gladiator gels grown for 4 hours that run fine in all other blasters.
This is what I’m greeted with when opening the magazine, any suggestions on how to rectify?
Thanks
Those gels look huge, can you measure them at all?
Odd for cyma mags to come with a SLR Ion, thought those were JingJi. CYMA mags don’t usually fit anything other than CYMA cause of the mag catch location on the mag, at least none of mine so.
Quick sample of 10 with the verniers
7.51
7.36
7.44
7.60
7.33
7.49
7.37
7.48
7.41
7.39
Hmmmm those sizes shouldn’t cause a problem, except maybe those two bigger than 7.5 might jam in the t-piece or something and cascade down to the mag, they just look bigger in the pic.
Have you tried those same gels in other mags with the blaster?
That’s what I thought but states the DYTAC SLR with Cyma gearbox uses CYMA mags.
Unleash Power with Dytac SLR ION 4.25" Gel Blaster – Tactical Edge Hobbies
This is the only CYMA that I have, I do need a couple of spares but for now I’m trying to edumacate myself on what’s going on here.
I’ve taken the metal shell off the mag and inserted it into the blaster and you can see the feed wheel (terminology?) spinning continuously, yet when the metal cover goes on and gels are fed as normal… jam
No broken gel shrapnel in the T-piece area or barrel?
Nope, once I clear the gels from around the feed wheel and put the mag back together it runs beautifully for say 50-100 gels then packs up again.
Could it be the torque behind this particular magazine motor is weaker than it should be, causing those 7.5 gels to jam?
Guess there’s only one way to test that, get it to jam again and pull out the offending gels and measure them
Could be the odd oversized gel holding things up.
I’d think the mag motor and speed should be fine running 3S 11.1v.
Hopefully some of the more knowledgeable will comment if they’ve seen it.
Those motors are pretty basic, unless there was a serious manufacturing fault they’re almost impossible to kill.
I’m wondering if those odd oversized gels are being pushed against the shell as they’re being fed and causing a jam.
As you said try inducing a jam and measure the gels caught in the feed wheel and see what size they are.
Yeah never noticed that, only other SLR blasters I had seen were the JingJi ones so just assumed they were the same.
Might be a similar thing to Classic Army and the other one I’m drawing a blank on that are actually Wells just rebranded cause they have such a poor reputation or something. But CYMA don’t have a bad rep so don’t see why they wouldn’t put their name on it, if anything it would help sales.
I’ve found this same issue over the years, mainly just coming down to poor manufacturing tolerances when assembled.
The height of the motor/wheel can sometimes sit slightly higher and be tighter against the side of the mag, or the gap between the base of the feed tube and the wheel itself much smaller than comparison with the exact same brand/model mag out of a different blaster of the same make/model.
This works the opposite side around as well, where all the tolerances are much wider than standard and cause bad double feeding jamming through the wheel or leading into the feed tube.
The fun of Chinese kids toys is endless! 
Easy way to find out what’s going on is running a full mag out of the blaster with a battery hooked up to the mag terminal.
If gels feed and then stop, check to see if your mag motor’s still cranking. If it’s not something’s physically stopping that feed wheel rotation. If it’s still spinning with no gels coming out check the worm gear engagement on the motor shaft… might be not fully engaged or spinning on the shaft. I’ve had several CYMA mags with worm gears that have shifted out of gear engagement and have needed realignment and a dab of CA glue.
That said CYMA mag motors aren’t known to be the gruntiest either. 
Yes a different beast to the early SLR’s we are thinking of. Read somewhere the Dytac SLR shell was used and that’s about it.
If anything, mag reliability and quality are probably the only negative to CYMA blasters.
The only issue I have with the M4 mags are the wires snapping at the filling door cause they kink every time you open and close and they eventually just break inside the insulation.
Yep, common issue. Easy to rewire but definitely shouldn’t have to.
I’ve had more than a few over the years with dodgy motors though.
Had plenty of stock mag motors that just keep stopping randomly.
Can fire a few full mags and then nothing.
Open up the mag, give the motor a little spin by hand under power and boom… away they go again!
But subsequent use has them failing to start again several times, so in the bin they went!
Possible tarnish building up on the brush contacts meaning that depending where they stop rotating, they might power up again or hit a “dead” spot and not. 
Aftermarket motors are available dirt cheap by the bucket load, so why put up with a dodgy motor when it’s just as easy to replace 
Cyma mag things.
It is usually the wires, they barely have any wire in them at all… the metal mags also seem to be more problematic than the nylon ones.
If it isn’t the wires the mag motors are a bit weak compared to other brands so if there is a bit of resistance, the motor combined with the wires being poor will just stop.
The last metal cyma I bought had a faulty mag out of the box. It quite literally did the same thing as what yours is doing… Or rather isn’t doing!
Thanks for the replies everyone. Upon checking the paperwork I picked it up 28 days ago so I’ll try for a warranty claim. If successful I’ll request a nylon replacement.
Good idea… Those CYMA metal mags usually end up filling the mag pouches of my chest rig while it’s hanging on the wall. 
The nylon jobbies are far less trouble. 
