"Don't worry about the SCAR...this wont Wound the wallet! ( AKGelblaster SCAR)

Ok, here we go.
Short one for tonight.

With so much sun around today, it seemed a good idea to work on my TAN !!
:rofl: :rofl:

Full size pics…

Close up of the stock…retracted…

And, extended…wait…when did @AKgelblaster start selling shoes.??

Showing some leg…nice calves…!!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

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First impressions… Nice.!!

Its a reasonable weight, not too light, good for running around all day.
It has a mag prime, but no mosfet.

The longer inner barrel helps with OOTB performance.

I was using ihobby blues, and getting around 270 fps on semi…
Slightly less on full auto.

The fire select is NOT ambi, LHS only. RHS doesn’t move.
The stock is very rigid, locks into place well, and retracts back into the locked position and holds well there.

With stock fully retracted, you can just get your finger on the trigger…

Its a cyma…orange gearbox is mandatory.
Its also visible, in a few locations…

Nothing a quick flash of black rattlecan wont fix, when pulled apart.

Mag is standard CYMA fare.

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Performance…

Semi shots…

Auto…
No blowback helps higher ROF from a 7.4v

Being sub 300 fps, grouping is quite good.
Not much spread…able to hit about a 1m target, at 15-20m.
Standard lower fps fare.

Its also quite quiet.

Its the best performer of the new batch out of the box.
Both in term of ROF ( no blowback) and FPS ( longer barrel).

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A bit of a burst, on the back end / battery.

The rear rubber pulls off, and there is a pin retained cover.
Battery then inserts inside.
The turnigy ( good choice) fits very snugly into the appropriate battery slot, no annoying rattles.

Enough room to compress the wires fairly easily, and get the cover on.

NOW…

I did have a minor problem with my power cable, in the stock.
One of the internal battery connectors had come adrift.
It did fire, if the wires happened to touch.
I couldn’t get needle nose pliers in there ( too long/ cramped) so i had to pull the stock off.

This was easy enough, just tap out the retaining “pin” from the top down.
It not really a pin, a round thin metal piece.
It comes out easily enough.

Then, pull the little black plastic tab out., and pull the wires through.
Reconnect firmly, then reassemble…

What is really good, is the flexible wire shroud.
Pinched wires are a thing of the past.

Just be careful undoing your battery, brace the plug, so you dont pull too hard on the cable and dislodge it again.

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So…
Final thoughts…

A bargain banger.!!

Much better quality than the previous budget model, this performs well OOTB.
I’ll pull it apart, and do a stage one upgrade…

New O-ring( maybe), and M100 spring.
That should be all it needs to get it up around 300fps, if other models are anything to go by.

My JM AK, does 315 fps, on a M95! (very long barrel).

Its quiet, performs well, good accuracy standard…would be perfect for young kids as is…!!

Price is very good too…a turnigy battery is what $25?

Local Warranty support would be good to…i wonder what message’s ill find when i open it.?.? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I’ll post more, post upgrade…

Get into it!!

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Looks very nice! I thought gelballnobody changed something but he said it’s OOTB tested but nothing changed!!

i’m almost tempted to spray some flat lacquer on it…see how it looks

I might try just the magazine.

More mags coming, second shipment.?

I always reckoned SCARs look better with a black mag… M203 UGLs look good on them too.

For reference, a JM SCAR with black mag.

You’ve got a CYMA M4… try the mag from that in your SCAR. :+1:

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Your wish is my command…!!
:rofl: :rofl:

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“Ooops, i did it again.!!”

The battery was a little tight in the slot, and i pulled a bit too hard on the cables.
popped out again.

Thankfully, with the (intelligently placed) service hatch, its one minute to reconnect it…dont even need to pull the stock off…

Black service tab out, run the wires through it, hook it back up, and re-insert the tab.
1 minute fix…

Good idea, for cable access…

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And should you wish to change the plug type you can just make an adaptor instead of having to permanently change it.

Quick preview, of the Mosfet M4…

Bit of mag swapping , going on…

I think the G36 is the first candidate for a pull apart…
Disable the blow back…

These other two are doing about 220 fps OOTB…that was kinda expected though…

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Looks like I need to go through and check the “crimpyness” of the battery wiring on these.

I’m surprised at the fps, especially given how quiet and sedate they sounded in testing!

Thanks for the write up it’s all good to know stuff.

I’d love to go through and thoroughly test every thing on every blaster but then they wouldn’t be “new” in my mind.

I did plug a battery in and test function on all blasters before shipping but that is a basic safe, semi, auto, semi, safe, and mag prime sort of test.

And if there is any issue I do have the buyer covered for warranty. Option of swap or repair… knowing my skills though I recommend repair!

The service hatch is a easy save…

Even the most basic person could self fix it…

Maybe include it, when you do a video.

Could save some returns…

(Actually, I’m just thinking of my tenants down the coast. Even with a video, they wouldn’t be able to do it…:rofl::weary:🫩)

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I was going to say… I’ve met a lot of gel ballers… and even something this easy could ABSOLUTELY be a disaster!

Good advice on the video, and thanks for the notice of it, I’ll check all the remaining stock… more work when I could be finishing someone’s ZB26 :rofl:

(Hoping to finish it this weekend all the same!)

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Well I’ve got no idea who that someone would be at all :roll_eyes: :+1: :rofl:

Beemer, good time to brush up on your soldering skillz or pop some shrink wrap over your joins will help out. Or just pull on the connector more definitely so you don’t pull everything else apart :rofl: :+1:

That fake silver wiring is not the best for strength like copper silicone coated wiring. It’s a bit brittle and hard to get a good crimp on it. And it’s not silver anyway LOL

Morning, @RokSolid .

I figured out, what the problem is, as to why there is ‘pull’ on the wires…and the stock is difficult to move at times.

It has to do with the length of the battery wire available, vs extending stock…

Explaino, with photo…

Here is the battery wire running straight out ( lotsa wire)

Stock Retracted.

Stock EXtended…( wire consumed)

Now , that is with the wire running “straight out”.
With a battery in, it doesn’t run straight…it has to loop over and lay down.

When the battery is fitted with the stock RETRACTED, there is plenty of battery room, and cable room.
As you extend the stock…it reduces the amount of spare cable / pulls on the cable.

Depending where the wire loops over…you can run out of cable / pull on the wire. It also shows up as interference…hard to extend the stock. more photos…

In this shot, battery is out. XT30 connector is laying low. Not enough cable, to place the battery back in, and maintain the XT30 connector in this position…

BATT IN, FULLY EXTENDED.

As you can see, fully extended draws on the available battery cable length, and pulls the XT30 connector back. This pulls on the cables.

So, i think the solution is to extend the length of the available cable on the battery. Extra length would give extra cable running length, while leaving the position of the connector alone.

Aren’t you glad, i have sleepless nights, ruminating on solutions to your blasters problems…!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Thats gotta be worth a free blaster, next round…!!

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

But seriously, it’ll happen to all the blasters, as is…
Battery cable length fix for the Scars, could knock this design problem on the head…
And save a whole bunch of returns…

For a trial, i used this battery, with a longer cable.

Different connector ( your favourite!!), but i taped them together to try the length.

Worked perfectly, cable sat in position, Connections didnt move ( the battery moved in the slot).

The cable is about 5cm longer.

As mentioned, this battery is slightly physically smaller than the turnigy.
This allowed battery movement. As the turnigy is a firm fit, it would end up having cable movement.

But, the cable is now long enough, so it shouldn’t matter,

The other battery , is also a turnigy Nano-tech…

I know what I’d be doing if it was mine. :thinking:

I take it the XT30 connector’s too large to fit through the aperture on the buttstock? :person_shrugging:

Not having seen it, I’d be thinking about hardwiring straight through to the XT30 and opening up the aperture if necessary. One less connector in the circuit’s always desirable.

But I’ll concede that that as a fix for @RokSolid as a distributor isn’t a good solution.

Yeah…the xt30 won’t fit through.

A slightly smaller battery size, non binding, , allows movement of the battery within the batt compartment, as the stock extends. Batt Cable length is then not an issue.

Longer batt cables also give it a solution, if the battery can’t move/ does bind…

I’ve gotta get better at soldering…!!
:rofl::rofl::rofl: