There’s only one way to do that, Beemer… just gotta get in and do it. 
Instead of buying your next blaster, buy yourself a decent solder station and a bottle of Baker’s flux, go to town practicing with some old wiring. You’ll be surprised how easy it is if you get the iron to the right temp and use flux. It’s a shitload easier than welding or brazing, so there’s that.
Then you’ll have all the soldering skills necessary to maintain and service your vast collection… 
Detective Beemer, as I’ve already said, that silver wiring is brittle, hard and does not like to flex. I am explaining again in more detail.
Dats why you piss it off and replace with copper silicone coated wiring. You know the stuff electricutions always use all throughout your appliances and house. Make spaghetti out of it and bob’s your uncle it works.
I never extend the battery cable length to keep them standard and cross compatible with everyting, always modify the appliance to suit the power source.
You can get rolls of it at Jaycar very easily. Bunnings even, uh oh time for another snosauge 
Yeah, I don’t like silver wiring either… way too inflexible when you’re trying to tuck your wires into whatever compartment you’ve got.
Like you said, silicone coated copper wiring from Jaycar’s the bomb. Flexes easily,you can tie knots in that stuff… not that I’m recommending that, of course.
Got rolls of that shit here, various gauges. Good shit. 
Here this has been my go to for a few years now. You know I’m serious as I threw an UGG boot in for good measure which I never do for just anybody.
Oh look I can plug a 3S lipo in it so I can use it in the middle of bumfuck nowhere to solder a 400hp tractor cable back on which it does nicely. Adjustable power to more than enough for 1/2" cable and tone it down for the finer stuff on what’s those things again, oh yea blasters. It’s a good one Zehamish put me on to many moons ago.
Thanks for the investigative work @BME
Definitely gotta look after this customer 
Well any really is the plan.
I couldn’t agree more about silver wiring… marketing tripe, but nearly every manufacture falls for it! I have always used the silicone wiring in my builds, or the proper silver coated copper core stuff, depends on what fits and works but the silicone wiring is definitely the best for battery area where flex and movement is a desired trait!
I may need to get some slimmer batteries for them specifically, the work never ends
In the rush to get batteries these were chosen as they fitted in everything, albeit a little tight and had a good capacity and amp draw headroom.
We are looking at battery options still, as shipping them overseas is a similar headache to blasters at the moment as they are now regarded as dangerous goods.
More work to do… 
That’s such a South Aussie thing to do, throwin’ in an Ugg boot for mass appeal.
We aim to please Dunno about some of the other fkwits down here though
It’s thongs 365 a year for us up here in Bananaland, matey.
I’m waiting for the frost to stop freezing and I’ll be dusting my pair of workboots off.
They are great for plowing through the sand out here
Is looking at Hobbyking an option 
Last I looked they had them all in Australia warehouse and at very discounted prices. Just a thought.
Just had a quick look myself out of curiosity, yep
Airsoft Batteries - Lipo Battery Packs for Airsoft Guns
Got the ‘quick n easy’ solution for the existing batteries, @RokSolid …
Just lengthen the existing battery cable by about 5cm… and all is good.
Not as good as replacing all the cabling…but a quick fix to use existing batteries.
went to xforce to look at other battery solutions…
They kindly did a soldering job, on the original battery cable, and lenghtened it. ( Thanks Jamie).
It now fits in properly, stock moves without binding, and xt30 connector barely moves from resting position.
Photos when i get back home…
Ok…
Batt cable extended.
Batt connected…stock Fully Retracted…
And, Stock Fully Extended…
The original battery can move around a bit, in the compartment.
The XT30 Connector barely moves.
Easy Extension / retraction…no pulling on the wires.
Not the ideal solution, with regards to permanent wiring solutions…But…
Quickest and easiest way to get blasters out the door, using existing batteries, with no dispatch faults and nothing snagging causing returns.
Now, where’s that G36…??
That’ll have to wait, when im back from jetskiing.!
This days too good to waste, no wind, sun, and its actually warm.!
Looks like winters back’s broken…!
Wait… . you guys actually aren’t barefoot all year round like us Waussies? 
Not here it’s not, another frost this morning… kick the tyres and light the fires big daddy.
Been meaning to ask, did you get around to a set of Vessel JIS screwdrivers @BME ?
Or is the jury still out on those 
You wanna be careful you’ll have everything apart and forget what goes where
[quote=“DocBob, post:33, topic:2584, full:true”]
Don’t downplay yourself, I never thought of you like that bahahaha
Yeah, i got a set from Sydney tools, on sale.
Combo of phillips, and flat edge.
The phillips have the rough, corrugated super grippy heads.
I leave them for the stubborn screws…that grippyness would shred virgin chinesium screws, if its not called for…!!
Well, yeah… pretty much but we keep the thongs handy for formal occasions, Doc.
Wouldn’t want everyone to think we’ve got no class
Oooh… they’re not JIS though, Beemer.
Be careful, Phillips strips screw heads. 
Here’s some of the Vessel drivers…
3 Each, of phillips and flat.
The others on the right, were bought for long reach etc.
If you zoom in on the Vessel phillips…they have a rough corrugated head.
For extra grip, on stuck screws.
Get em out…then get rid of the screw.
I’d only use these of stuck screws… I figure they would mark normal screws if used with force.
Hence, standard screwdrivers used, most of the time…
