I am understanding completely! I originally put bullet connectors in the handguard, in case I wanted to re-route to a PEQ box. Given the efficiency of a 25k brushless and 12:1 gears, I likely won’t be running a PEQ box, a butterfly battery or even a small lipo is fine.
I’m thinking another set of bullet connectors, or just a deans plug; in between the gearbox and front trunnion so I can disconnect the upper receiver.
Once doing that it will be a very easy to disassemble blaster. 4 receiver pins, 6 screws in the grip and everything is apart for tinkering! That with a dangerously easy to change spring, and the light yet solid feel of a blaster from yester-year… that also shares mags with the j12… might have a new regular use blaster!
Don’t worry the only thing I am shaving is… gel blaster parts!
…and my face, but nobody wants to see that anyway!
Might have to create a thread for this “Gel Ball Nobody” nonsense, and thanks for all those watching my nonsense, I enjoy making the content, and appreciate all the views etc, thanks everyone!
Currently trying to finish the ACR/R and at least get that video onto the computer, then in good time you can see the results. I didn’t film alot of the build though, as it has been chipped away over the last week while a lot of things have been going on at the same time.
The results are what we are really after anyway right?
Time to flog this dead horse one more time!
ACR/R is done. Rewired it but didn’t bother with a connector between upper and lower, nothing I had was small and convenient with decent amp carry etc it isn’t that hard to punch two pins and a few screws if I want the gearbox out.
Main reason would be to change the spring anyway, which I can do by punching three body pins and lifting the stock!
Video will come… also made good progress with the new blaster, though needs one more open up to change a nozzle, cylinder head and tpiece… decisions have been made!
The ACR got the metal barrel upgrade, new O-ring and M95 spring.
Got the old plastic barrel out with the hot water trick. epoxied a new 7.5 mm xforce barrel in. Same length as old barrel, i didn’t want a longer one.
Old Oring was buggered, 6 yrs old, no surprises there.
Plenty of gear grease on the gearbox shell, that got recycled and reapplied.
Air seal was crap originally, new oring was an improvement, but nowhere near airtight.
Still, i just kept all the old piston, cylinder head, tapper plate etc…this was just a quick upgrade.
Quite a few spinner screws re assembling the gearbox, they must have been over tightened at the factory.
Thanks to @Friendly_Fire for the super-glue/screw reattaching trick, it should hold together for awhile yet.
I figured out the rear stock / door trick…after it caught me out.
It wont go on later, attach the stock when putting the gearbox back in the receiver.
I had to pull the box apart again anyway, anti reverse latch wasnt holding properly as i was getting some backwards running after finishing a burst, and one or two dribbling out…
They are a decent blaster, even all these years later held up pretty good. As for the spinny screws… seen a few straight out of the box like that! Worst is when the nut that holds the grip screws spins in place, had a few of them!
As for the wire… Heat shrink if it fits… or replaced the offending wire and terminals is the best but the most work.
If you don’t mind leaving it overnight… some liquid electrical tape is a good fix… messy to use and sometimes you do get the results needed the first time but it does work. Not cheap stuff though. It’s actually cheaper to buy wire, terminals, and heatshrink and do it properly.
For @shadow187 , if you see a ACR 2nd hand anywhere, id reccommend grabbing it.
If you can pick up one for $50-60 or so, its a steal.
Easy to pull apart to work on, even if the gearbox is stuffed, thats ok.
Ihobby / xforce sell new gearboxes for these still, for $45, so if you need to replace the whole gearbox, its still affordable.
There are plenty of teardown videos, showing how to dissassemble the blaster, and also the gearbox. If you replace the gearbox, you can keep the older one, as a practise pull down gearbox.
Then, miminal parts for a barrel upgrade and spring/o-ring upgrade.
Then, viola , 300 fps blaster…! Very sturdy and solid too…
Give it a crack…!
Yeah most are going for around $100, some in better appearance condition than others. Definitely something I’ll be looking into, I do love a good high fps blaster
Those damaged wires… as RokSolid said, heatshrink.
One good way to guarantee it doesn’t happen again is to dremel a slot into the gearbox shell so the wires can tuck into it well away from the pinion. Maybe a dab of hot glue to secure. War Interest boxes suffer from the same problem… same fix for them too.
Also don’t recommened overspringing Gen 9 boxes. Had one across the bench today with SHS gears that’s running an M110 spring. Way oversprung for the flimsy shell. It’s noticably warping near the sector gear bushings and is almost interfering with the movement of the selector plate.
Don’t believe it’ll be chooching much longer. Still, it’s a very old blaster… it’s amazing it’s hung in this long.
Can you slice it down one side to open it, push it over the frayed wire, and then successfully shrink it on.?
i.e. cut off a small section, say 1cm long…then slice it lengthways down one side.
That would enable placing over the affected wire, without feeding from the top or bottom. Then shrinking.
Still, it’s a very old blaster… it’s amazing it’s hung in this long.
