Oh… uhhh I just put some loctite on there thinking it should be a shook proof glue… guess I’ll have to switch that out later.
So I removed the sector delay and the double feed on semi was fixed. Ground out the back even more and redid some of the electrical tape on the cables. I asked Stariver and they only do servicing on their mosfets, no cables for sale. Probably from people messing it up and then asking for refunds. Thinking about getting the new LDT mosfet and just sending in this one for service.
Haven’t chronoed the ROF yet but some quick maffs says it should be around 40. The AOE discussion has been around for a long long time so I’m not going to comment, the AOE pad, like you mentioned, is more for cushioning the piston head slamming into the front of the gearbox.
Another tech did say that I should consider removing teeth off sector and piston. Firstly for smoother operation and secondly might be overpowered right now since legal limit in China is 80 mps.
40rps I would absolutely be short stroker and bumping up the spring. In my experience one slightly larger gel a little jammed in the barrel while full auto that sort of rof will be a catastrophic failure from pme.
One of my favourite builds is 35k warhead with 13:1 gears short four teeth with an m120. It gets 350fps and 36-38rps depending on the battery used. An m100 with full stroke I would say is really only safe to 30rps… I have done 36rps with a full stroke and m110 but it was short stroked two teeth to bring power down to 330fps.
In higher rof you really want the piston to absolutely be all the way forward before the sector comes back around to meet it again.
I too have never played with high rof and short stroking. I’m interested to have a go but have read too many differing stuff so I don’t know a damn thing.
Maybe a bit of a guide for the laymen one day would be appreciated. I sort of get from what you’ve said so far, but what teeth. Do you do the ladder or sector Yep NFI right here
I should do a guide… I take teeth off the pickup side, for higher rof that is the best bet but you do need to do a neater smoother job. On normal 11v speed you can take a tooth or two of release side but generally if you are short stroking it is for higher rof. Too much hassle for a standard rof build.
Also there is no need to take teeth off the piston. Unless you are looking to shave mass you just don’t need to. Again, you can but more work that makes no difference.
I also have very little experience with high ROF builds, as I preferred more realistic ROF in my own blasters, and most of my customer work were more the standard upgrades in FPS and stronger internals.
Any higher ROF builds were only mild increases from different motors/gears/batteries, but not to anything higher level crazy speeds.
Damn… four teeth? Doesn’t that drop your performance a lot? Now I’m scared to even fire the thing. Also, I heard you’re supposed to take teeth off the piston as well but no good explanation as to why.
So uhh can I remove the gear teeth with some hand held power tools like a dremel or do I need to take it to a hardware guy?
Or should I just buy a slower motor? 40k is a bit too high
Four teeth and m120 is to get good fps and be safe.
I still don’t think a 40k motor and 16:1 would be 40rps. Maybe just over 30. If that is accurate. Worth chronoing it to see what it is really doing.
Some motors are rated speeds at 7.4v, some at 11.1v. not all brands are equal.
30rps with m100 is safe provided you don’t use oversized ultra gels that jam.
I have generally had 280fps with short barrels, ported cylinder, m100 and four teeth missing. If course you can start with 1 or two, you can’t put em back on is all I’m saying!
Chrono’ed yesterday, sitting around 36 rps, 75 to 80 mps. According to the more experienced guys, no need to cut teeth off. Oh and it’s an M80 spring.
True… the teeth can come off but don’t go back on there hahahaha. I think for now I’m keeping it as is. Played a game yesterday with it and all went fine.
Mid range MPS, but with only an M80 spring, thats to be expected
As long as it’s firing straight and smooth without any misfire, it should be a long lasting and reliable blaster
Just figured out how to use my mosfet and there is a setting to put the full auto speed at 80%, or even lower. How does that work exactly and does that cause any harm to the motor? Funnily enough neither Solink nor Stariver knows if this speed reduction causes any long term damage to the motor.
I tried putting it in 50% and it was very much to my liking, but I’m not sure what that does to the motor exactly. My very unprofessional and limited knowledge of electronics says this is bad for the motor in some very complicated way.
Being a brushless motor, it won’t have any detrimental impact on the motor itself, but can add loads to the wiring/battery/electronics if the motor power is reduced to a point where it is struggling to operate the gearbox/main spring efficiently.
@RokSolid is your Guru to answer these types of questions though, as my knowledge is far from up to date with the latest products on the market.
I know warhead motors (don’t know for solink) say to not use rof adjustment on mosfets. This may be due to various MOSFETs using different methods of changing the speed, some may be incompatible with the circuit on the brushless motor.
Most of them are running a programmed speed of semi auto rather than regulating the voltage.
Best way I can describe it is, it times one cycle, and adds a rest period between relative to the cycle time.
So essentially it is spamming semi at a speed relative to one cycle time.
I guess warhead saying to not use the feature may be just them covering their arse? More likely it is easier and cheaper than them buying a heap and testing against various brands and tiers of ETU.
On the other hand the T238 brushless motors have a speed adjustment on the motor. From what I have seen it is essentially a voltage regulator of sorts. It may be more complex I don’t know but thats how it appears in videos where someone holds full auto and adjusts it up and down.
Either way, in a perfect world you get the motor that does the speed you want, I think these are more options for tuning. Getting the right motor is better than tuning the wrong motor to do what you want. It is a bit expensive to experiment when motors can be one of the pricier parts of a build (especially brushless) so it really isn’t a part you want to just buy a few different ones of and use the best for the application, then have a bunch of expensive things left over…
I kinda do that now, but only as over time I have accumulated way too much stuff and parts!
Well I did a chrono again yesterday and the SLR reached 42 RPS, but MPS was decently stable at around 75 to 80. I put the gels through a sieve too and only fed perfect size gels, so that’s probably why it was more stable this time around.
Yeah I guess I did a real rookie mistake since the Solink budget line has 30k, 35k, and 40k I think? and I just went with the highest thinking big numbers mean moar powah baby. I was also forced to get 16 gears not 18, so I’m a bit scared of this ROF now, but everyone around me is saying it’s fine lol.
Yeah I do get that feeling too, since nobody wants to take the responsibility, everyone just says uhhh don’t do it. I mean then what’s the point of your own mosfet having that function?
I have a Solink 5 in my other blaster which I can adjust the speed on, but that one was like 600 RMB, this motor was just 260.
But if it is just spamming semi… is that a problem? As long as it’s not using the light sensitivity trigger there should technically not be any issues right? Or is it engaging the built in braking mechanism in the motor?
I’m inclined to just run it at 80% or even as low as 50% and see what happens.
The most important thing is to research the details about your particular motor and the different functions of your MOSFET/FCU.
Some brushless motors will fry themselves if Active Braking is applied to them through the MOSFET/FCU programming.
Every pull of the trigger on either semi or full auto will apply AB to stop the motor if this function is turned on, or with some FCU’s, is a feature that can’t be turned off or adjusted.
I’d say it’s the electronics and features built into the internals.
Things like AB and a host of whatever the FCU functions are able to be applied into them
Yep NFI right here 
