Granted I haven’t bought any Sutton HSS drill bits lately so didn’t know they are now shit according to you… I’m still using Sutton stuff but don’t do as much drilling as I used to.
What’s shit about them?
Used some Irwin and Milwaukee sets and they’ve been good. But you pay for it too.
The breakthrough is like jumping out of an aeroplane, you think you are going to make it but sometimes you don’t.
Was working alongside a toolmaker as he was drilling a 3" hole with a HSS taper shank bit, that grabbed on the breakthrough, snapped the clamps on slab of steel for the wheel die. Made everyone look in the shop as it went bang like a gunshot. Supervisor came over, ah that was $380 for that drill bit you know. Oh well better get on the dog and bone to the Sutton rep.
At least with keyless chucks they just slip, or try to break your wrist. Taper shank, they do not slip, everything else breaks first. As long as you haven’t got swarf or coolant on the shank and smack em in with a copper hammer. Some lazy workers would half knock them in and start drilling only to have it fall out and go flying, chip the flutes and all sorts. Fun times
Cool video, but seeing that workbench, lack of commentary and the size of that wristwatch… I’ve got a sneaky suspicion that @LowGuido has quietly snuck into the hobby and trying to fly under the radar with this video of his!
Just planning out and some of the 4 link setups I’ve watched
Keep it simple trailing arm type that actually fit. So went searching for that, somebody must of done it before and sure enough that’s what I had in mind using the leaf springs. Should be enough to hold the torque twist of the diff so the tailshaft doesen’t drop out. I’ll see, who cares all part of the fun.
There’s certainly thousands of videos out there for these things showing all sorts of backyard mods using the standard parts which is what makes them so much more fun and interesting to tinker with
Have also seen blokes who have 3D Printed their own parts to screw on to turn them into proper rod linked rear ends with better aftermarket shocks modified to sit inline with the chassis instead of angled underneath, for even more rock crawler type flex
Had seen this leaf chop mod before, but they were on the trayback versions like yours, and I didn’t know how they would hold up to the weight of these particular models with all the crap on the back of them.
But this video seems to show that they will hold up just fine, so might have to give it a go and see what happens!
Front shocks are stiff AF too, so could benefit from some upgraded units both front and rear for sure.
Only difference is that I’m the same as you with that OCD thing about every having to be done 100% neatly and the correct way… probably something to do with years of building half million dollar Hot Rods to a very high standard!
I’ll be marking the spring lengths before I disassemble it, then using proper side cutters and files to shape the ends of the springs, possibly looking to see if I can reverse the springs to use the fixed screw end onto the chassis to locate solidly instead of using the Slipper ends… but will have to wait and see what’s going to work the best
I did watch somewhere a fellow swapped the standard rear coil springs to the front and they were much softer. Might be something to look at. This is for the MN82.
Have not seen a decent MN82 4 link rear setup yet. Some I watched they buggered your under axle ground clearance. I dunno keep looking, they tend to morph over time with upgrades upon upgrades.
Similar to the Red Girl, but this is the square headlights version with different grille of the original vehicle and slightly more off-road modified looking jigga.
Just gotta do the usual and stick all the small detail accessories onto it, give it a quick test drive/Inspection to make sure everything works and nothing broken/missing…then find my box of aftermarket/wheels/tyres and see what looks best on this particular vehicle.
First mod will most likely be the axle chop same as the Red Girl.
Mate’s doing a heap of work in the back yard, so have plenty of piles of sand, woodchips and sawdust from the wood chipper/stump grinder to muck around in
Settled on the white 15x8 replica more positive offset Sunraysia’s for now, want to swap out to the 15x10 negative offset rims once I’ve chopped the axles, which again both sets of white rims/tyres were ordered quite a while ago in preparation for fitting to this particular model.
Great performance for an out of the box rig, but good quality tyres and deeper offset 15x10 style replica chrome rims on the narrowed axles make the world of difference, tyres stick harder than grass seeds in ya socks!
Just gotta figure out a different gearbox or a skid plate for the original lump of a unit that hangs low exactly where ya don’t want it!
Amazing how all the tyres on these different rims are exactly the same size, yet the difference between the 15x8 and 15x10 type replica rims make them look so much fatter on the 15x10 design, which are exactly the same size as the 15x8 style rims, but the deeper offset just really sets them off!
The left over angle cut would do my OCD in.
