Here’s a link to my fuck up (sorry HIS fuckup) and they are already on their way 
It’s the classic white set BTW, not the Black ones!
A SHITONNE cheaper than the genuine Clodhopper replacement tyre set, as I’m sure that you’re well aware!
I’m gonna wait until the FMS GLACIER arrives, but by looking at my trusty wooden ruler and doing some kindergarten level mathematics… I’m 99.9% certain that there’s nothing I have in the fleet that can handle these big bois! 
12mm Hex=Check
Standard cloddys are around 150mmx100mm outside diameter but 1" smaller is all good.
They can be put to use here. Trump couldn’t make a deal today so let’s make a deal 
Jokes aside PM or phone to work out the details full price and post.
Around $100 for a pair of tyres and foams for cloddies.
Or the original TXT-1 tyres which are the same tyre but different rim I bought new for quarter of this price holy fk TAMIYA TXT-1 VINTAGE NEW TIRES & WHEELS TAMIYA CLODBUSTER JUGGERBAUT | eBay
I got a huge shock when I seen what was the going rate for a single pair of Clodbuster type tyres online, just 2 tyres, no wheels, no foams… just a couple of tyres for $1- $200 bucks! 
Will shoot you a PM when they arrive, and even being a bit smaller, I’m sure you’ll definitely find something to bolt them onto and destroy them!
Oh yea I’m hopeless you can blow some money on these things. But eh gives you reason to live 
I sure do not spend what some do or I would be dead by now from starvation
Have only just seen a little bit, but already blown away by all this modern RC stuff that I never knew existed!
I know I’m gonna be busy on YouTube tonight checking out all this stuff
The RC Crawler YouTubers do the same trick when filming model vehicles off-road, slowing down the footage to create smoother and more realistic scenes compared to fast moving jerky small replicas…,… certainly makes a huge difference when viewing 
You want to try shopping at this place Crawford Performance Engineering
I have… after I sell a few hundred sheep They make good gear though and they used to sell that exact rim/tyre you got coming. Can’t see it listed atm, maybe the manufacturer has left overs or something. Doesen’t matter to me.
That’s some killer gear, but a bit over my pay grade and a bit extreme for 1/6 scale $50 Chinese toy trucks
I always say there’s no harm in window shopping, costs you nothing
Girls do it but some seem to lack restraint and go ham 
Exactly what I seen on most videos when fitting INJORA wheel/tyre combo’s.
I can understand their excitement in fitting these great products, but they really gotta step back and think…mmmmm, does this actually look right?
I’ve also got the exact same products, but the difference is that I did something about the rediculous looking offsets and done whatever mods required to make it look right!
I watched that one get the grinder out to shorten the axles which brings them in a bit but ehem…
bit like this
Where dafuk did that idiot “learn” to use an angle grinder?
I could see that coming a mile away from the very start! 
I used a small fine toothed precision hacksaw on the metal axles, then attached a drill to the opposite axle to spin the diff whilst facing off the chopped axle end on some 400 grit sandpaper 
Everything was going great, until I had to use the 1.5mm drill bit to deepen the wheel locking screw thread hole to suit.
The drill bit hit something and decided to snap off perfectly flush with the end face of the axle. 
That’s when I just packed everything away and ordered another set of Portal Axles to try and do the same mods on, but maybe this time, find a mate with a bench vice and some non Bunnings quality Taiwanese drill bits!
The Red Hilux stock white nylon axles were much less work indeed.
Yes it happens, I thought you’d find it funny.
I’d like a dollar for every broken screw I’ve extracted I got some good techniques to get the buggers out when there is no option as I had to get machinery ones fixed yesterday. They broke everywhere from the constant bashing of production. A mig welder was a good friend with an allen key. So was a set of Cobalt drills. But they had to be sharp and don’t overheat. A lot of people can’t sharpen a drill bit properly and that’s half the problem to start with. I was taught well when young.
Drill bits this small though my techniques would destroy the whole car Does pay to spend the quadruple price on quality drill bits, can get a decent half inch set from Bunnings for about $100.
I too bought a complete set that was supposed to be nitrided. I think they just spray painted the fkers yellow they are shit and snap if you sneeze on them. They were $100 too. Got ripped, not even straight. I just use them for bash around jobs now until they are gone.
These are good Kango 19 Piece Cobalt Drill Bit Set - Bunnings Australia
and these SUTTON 1-13mm M2 HSS Bright Jobber Drill Bit Set - 22 Piece D101SM22RD | Total Tools
During my many years as a mechanic, working not only in my own business, but also whilst employed by other Hot Rod/Custom/Classic and Mining vehicle workshops, which were equipped with millions of dollars worth of machinery and tools, the old Sutton drill bits used to be the go -to for many years.
So dickhead me here buys nothing but Sutton drill sets from proper trade suppliers at big costs, and then only find out that they are now no better than Bunnings $12 Chinese sets
For the love of God, somebody PLEASE point me in the right direction of ANY quality tools available these days, because EVERY single brand I’ve come to rely on paying big money for over the last 40 years have all gone to shit!
Fine getting quality SANDVIK gear for my lathes and milling machines, but when it comes to basic toolbox tools, everything seems to have turned to custard, no matter the quality brand name or the higher cost you pay for what SHOULD be reliable gear.
Unfortunately that 1.5mm drill bit sitting wedged flush in that Portal Axle ain’t ever coming out, simply too small to even think about extracting it! 
you really just pay for the branding at that point.
I still reckon this is the best video out there explaining the rabbit hole that these things offer
And YES, I had every single model shown in this video plus some!
3d printers are a huge tinker trap for those who have a “just plug in and print stuff” mentality.
Powertool close calls… had a few. 
One time at Boeing we were drilling a 17mm hole in a steel jig frame.
The magbase drill was being used elsewhere, we were at the end of a long overnight shift and dead tired. So to just get the job done and go home, I grabbed a big electric hand drill and went to town on it.
Of course you know what inevitably happened… I’m no dummy with handtools, took all the care in the world, lubricant, slow approach, etc. But I was knackered and not firing on all cylinders. Everything was going great until that big arse drill bit broke through the 6mm thick steel and bit in.
No way to stop that big drill breaking out of my grip… the trigger lock got punched in as well so it kept spinning, the electrical chord wrapped around the drill and wound on neatly until it ran out of length and oh so neatly pulled the plug out of the socket. When the drill stopped, it was sticking out of the jig frame at 90° with the chord nicely wound around it, so without missing a beat or reacting I pulled it out of the hole, put the drill on the roller toolbox, packed up my tools and said “Yep… time to go home.”
Everyone watching said it looked like I’d done it on puepose… the next day when we went back to finish the job, they had cardboard signs made up with scores on them… 9.5, 9.2, 9.7, etc.
oh so it was you who stranded those 2 astronauts on the ISS.
