Do you really wanna gamble the Crown Jewels, in a medinchina, remote controlled, appendage gripper…??
Do you really trust the remote to even work.??
Would you trust the tighter / looser knob to work.?
How do they test em for QC…??
Do you really wanna know…??
Now, if they could make a fully functioning blade runner replicant, to Darryl Hanna specs, they may have a winner…!
Actually, Rachael is more of a classic beauty…more my taste…
Just make sure the mute button works…!!
Santa Clause drop-off today, even though I was out of town attending appointments…
MOAR POWER 4S to wake up the full potential of the RC Speedboats I have on the way 
Awesome bonus addition at no extra cost is this large waterproof fibreglass lined LiPo battery bag to carry around the many batteries that I will be carting to the local Weir for the maximum play time possible.
Just hanging out for some boats to arrive to enjoy before winter sets in!
I meant Darryl Hanna, as she appeared in Bladerunner…
Not the contemporary version…
Forgot to do an “unboxing” of the latest RC model to hit the workbench.
UDIRC O22 TYLOSAURUS.
3554 1800KV brushless motor.
120A watercooled ESC.
3S and 4S capable.
“Gyroscope” type Receiver.
40mm 1.4 pitch stainless prop.
All externals Stainless and Alloy.
In typical Doc Bob Gelblaster fashion, pulled brand new out of the box and immediately hacked into it with the power tools to do some modifications I had been planning for it. 
Battery tray sits high and has been the only gripe in the reviews, trying to fiddle with the Velcro strap getting batteries in and out of the hull…so Strap and tray were the first to disappear. 
Then need to cut out the old battery tray posts, once I could get a cut-off wheel fitted without breaking it. 
Pretty daunting attacking the brand new hull with power tools and a wobbly shoulder! 
End goal was achieved to clear a surface to mount Velcro strips directly to the bottom of the hull so that various size/shape batteries could have Velcro added to each of them to be easily mounted/removed/accessible, plus fore/aft moveable lower CG and plenty of depth to fit under the waterproof top cover.
Have bigger Amp aftermarket ESC’s, higher KV bigger diameter motors and other upgraded parts here already, but am waiting for the similar model UDIRC OO5 ARROW boat to arrive before making any further mods, as that boat’s open layout
seems to look easier to modify than this more integrated newer version
Oh yeah… haven’t seen the little Hilux dual cab for a while, but its still progressing slowly and not been forgotten, certainly looking a little different than stock. 
So yeah… after a whole afternoon on the water, came home to recharge all of the battery packs, and can still confirm that the standard supplied battery and the couple of TURNIGY packs WAY outperformed those OVONICS “performance” batteries.
Stock and TURNIGY batteries still showing 3.46-3.6V per cell after the LVC cutout kicked in, whereas the OVONICS were all WAY below minimum, with great patience to even be able to get the boat back to shore at less than 3.2 volts across each cell.
Was a waste of time making that DEANS/XT60 Series lead, as wasn’t able to physically fit the two hard case OVONICS 5200mAh 50C 2S batteries within the Hull. 
Gonna go all hillbilly mechanical engineering on them and cut open the hard cases, remove the LiPo cells within and simply tape the bastards together as a stacked pack in single configuration.
Recharging everything now, but the standout of the day was my ancient old TURNIGY 2200mAh 20-30C 3S with the dodgy Ohm cell resistance way outperforming the brand new OVONIC “performance” batteries.
Plenty of leftover voltage after the LVC kicked in, and recovered amazingly fast on the SKYRC Charger.
Got to fiddling around with the Hilux Dual Cab while attending to the multiple battery charging chore, and I think have finally found the ideal candidate for the MKT Monster Truck wheels.
Like any project, same with the Gelblasters, gather a big stockpile of aftermarket parts for “planned” builds … but then find out that nothing ever goes to plan, so just keep mixing and matching/trial and error until the end result finally reveals itself!
So yeah, happy with the scale looking results on this, even though the parts were meant for a completely different build, that didn’t work out but this kinda does!
Never seen a HILUX Monster Truck before, but if there was one, I’m pretty sure this is how it would look.
Disassembled the rims/tyres and removed the shitty internal foams, leaving some decent quality soft pliable tyres to work well on this lightweight vehicle.
The aftermarket brushless motor/ESC/3S power train along with the aftermarket 2 speed Alloy/Steel gearbox and Portal Axles has more than enough power to turn the bigger tyres with a shitonne of torque.
Will keep swapping and trying out many different aftermarket parts between the many different model RC Crawlers I have in the fleet until finding what suits what the best.
In the meantime… absolutely destroying every single LiPo battery I own chasing ducks at the local Weir. 
Spent last night turning the two hard case OVONICS 2S batteries into a single soft case 4S battery that will fit in the Speedboat
Cut the cases open to remove the innards
Removed the outside foams to bring down the widths
Kept the foam on one battery to act as an insulator between the two packs
Even then, still gained much more space in comparison to the original hard cases
Finished off with a good healthy wrapping of my favourite quality NITTO Vinyl tape and now fits nicely within the Hull
VOILA! Now a 14.8V 100C 5500mAh 4S soft shell battery 
Was thinking of redoing the wiring to finish it off as a single lead output, but can’t be assed at the moment and just use the Series lead that I’ve already made up.
Will look at chopping the plugs and leads off the Pillowcase 4S, before it meets a small lead weight at high velocity, and use them in the future to turn this into a proper 2 lead 4S configuration.
Aye now ya talkin! Top job doctor.
Did my round trip to the big smoke, voted for Humphrey B bear, mates 60th, Mum, Dad, Auntie, Uncle, visits, Paella, Vodka, copious amounts of beer. Oh and the post office
I’m sure I ordered red Injora Sunraysias for the Landcruiser crawler. 
Either my eyes are buggered or they are bloody pink! That’s not going to last too long in my neck of the woods 
That Injora electric driver bit set looks fantastic(yes I can hear the Doc you lazy bastard you had to get an electric driver) well I couldn’t buy the driver set by itself. Either a manual 1/4" hex drive with the bit set which includes the elusive 1.3mm hex I needed to fit these in between sizes on these mini crawlers. But I’ve already got 3 manual 1/4" hex drives and a beefier cordless rattle gun that is overkill for this hobby stuff. $10 more why buy another manual hand one. Oh bugger it. Very well made for $40 ish dollars delivered the quality seems very good. Time will tell.
I like the driver box says, “Make more fun for RC” I was hang on are these guys at Injora taking the piss or what Gave me a chuckle none the less.
Oh and the ClodBuster beadlock rims look fantastic. Too many screws for me to rip open the packet and disappear most of them into the vortex of a few thousand acres
Great update mate and figured you must have been busy the last few days as had gone quiet on here… but now we know why!
Yeah, Red… Pink, it won’t matter with your custom painting skills, sure that you will get them exactly as you desire
I won’t give you grief about the INJORA electric set, because all that matters is getting those correct sized drivers in something that isn’t made out of recycled dog food tin cans!
I’ll definitely be looking to do the same down the track, as trying to work with shit quality fasteners and tools is just a complete headfck.
PS: After a big day running all over the region with Doctors and Specialists, finally managed to get back to the Weir around 4:00 after picking up my Marine Grease from the Post Office that doesn’t deliver anything.
Really strange that been running the INOX lubricant in the stuffing tube/flex cable in the boat for around 60 battery packs so far whilst I was waiting for the “proper” Marine Grease to arrive, and never had a single drop of water inside the hull.
Ran 8 battery packs this afternoon after finally being able to use the “proper” Marine Grease, and got water ingress straight away from the very first run?
Thinking maybe grease is too thick for a lightweight electric boat, and all the “experts” just recommend it from full sized boats?
Similar scenario to putting 90-120 weight 4WD/Truck Hypoid Diff Oil into your 1/10 scale RC Crawler…that shit just don’t add up!
Also noticed that the speed of the boat dropped, along with temperatures on the whole electrical system getting hotter, which equals restrictions and power loss compared to running lightweight INOX oil over thick Marine Grease.
More food for thought and more experimentation, but so far the Marine Grease seems to have no place in RC Boat performance at all.
Oh yea it drove me around the bend as I posted before. Hang on never heard of a 1.3mm hex head made of cheese. Anyway just tools I’ve never had to use before, never ever stop learning
Even a 0.5mm hex. I’ve never gone that small before 32mm sockets and farm stuff I’m normally going for And a bigger hammer. Got great reviews that driver and bit set. I think I mentioned as I couldn’t find anything like that size from my normal go to tool suppliers in Australia. Or my search fu is UTS. Got the gold fake titanium paint on em so must be good
Then bumped in to the Injora store, aha here they are. Just wanted the bits really but they don’t sell alone. OhUh oh finger slipped. It should be all good now. Just that bloody pink…
Cheers for the feedback mate, will definitely follow your lead and chase up the exact same set myself.
Next project… some Boat Trailers to attach to my various RC 4WD’s to complete the whole setup. 
Will be made out of Sausage Factory aluminium profile strips, pop rivets and whatever spare rims/tires/parts I have floating around in the spares piles.
I’ve found that too, some of the lubricants are just too thick because they are smaller machines than what we are used to.
Like I chuck 80W/90 30 litres of it in the back diff of my tractor but just not in the back diff of the Tamiya Grasshopper.
So I started paying more attention to the kit Tamiya supplied lubricants, I’m like that’s thin use it as lip balm. But no specs on it as Tamiya secret sauce.
Last few years I’ve gone for inox mx6 with PTFE food grade machinery grease. Not cheap but you don’t need much and it’s working a treat over last 5 years. Fully synthetic and has anti corrosion oxidation additives and it lasts well too and seems to be thin enough without flinging off to the never never not doing it’s job. Plastics friendly and you can eat it why it’s food grade certified. Handy to know when I run out of food
Proper marine grease might be just a bit too thick. My thoughts anyway Worth a trial run perhaps 
Oh and PS in the Injora bit driver set have a looky here
hmm that’s where my problem was. All about that 0.03mm difference. Then I’m thinking they just throw imperial in for fun Bloody fun alright
Fiddling around with rims and tyres.
That Injora driver is great for this. It locks up nice so you can use it like an unpowered one to nip up the last bit by hand. Liking it.
Also discovered the faux wheel screws that clamp the halves together are indeed imperial, use the 0.05" bit. See that on a few utoob videos as well. Strange to me, I didn’t know as first foray in to this scale and haven’t seen it before on RC. Live and learn
Hmm, might be a trip to the paint booth. Diameter looks a bit wierd. The red ones are bigger rolling diameter. These Sunraysias are same rolling diameter 62mm as stock.
Thanks heaps for the comments and pics, and am definitely adding one of those INJORA kits to my shopping cart!
About 8 different sets of good quality Allen Key Sets in my mates toolbox, and am sick of not being able to work on stuff properly, just like the other day where I couldn’t remove a metal driveshaft because the little grub screw rounded out
Been too scared to touch anything on the boat until I get some decent tools to prevent the same thing happening, even though it was supplied with a Driver kit to suit, I just don’t trust the quality of factory included tool kits!
As for the INOX range, yes, I did a tonne of research regarding the different lubricants available and their affects on ABS/Nylon plastics, heat ranges, pressure specs and water/corrosion capabilities.
I had to settle on the MX3 as it was the only one available in the Rural Hardware Store here in this small town.
Looked at the MX6 as well, and might just order some online to have on hand as well.
Only ordered that particular Marine Grease as it’s what ALL the online RC Boat performance channels use and recommend, but with the knowledge that I learnt during my Oil Consultancy Course all them years ago got me questioning its use in these particular circumstances.
Probably just gonna go with what I know and stick to using INOX in these RC Boats instead.
Yeah I had the same when they rolled up, being smaller than I imagined.
Which was fine on the smaller 1/16 scale C-14 and C-24 1980’s Hiluxes, as they were actually more true to scale than the larger 70 mm stock wheels.
The MN-82 Cruiser is a 1/14 scale though, which has much larger wheels than the others, which is why the rediculousy large looking wheels off the C-64 White Dual Cab Hilux fitted onto the MN-82 looking the exact right replica scale for that particular vehicle
From memory, it’s around 70/72mm and above for the MN82’S, but you would know that from measuring the Wheels on yours
Those INJORA carbon fibre/chrome rims I got for the Dual Cab Hilux should be the right size for your MN82 and come in many different designs, and are also reversible to allow for changing offsets.
Will try and find a link to them and post below 
Any of INJORA’s rims/tyres at either 1.2 or 1.3" should suit the Bruiser nicely mate.
