Is that the spray on MX3 
like the more potent version of WD 40. We used to use it in maintenance as itâd get in better on your stuck bolts and things than WD 40 did out of an aerosol can.
Oh cool. Hmm looks like Iâll be shopping for another set of tyres and rims soon 
Gotta get paid first might help. Thanks for the info, bookmarked 
Wouldnât be the first time, Iâve got 3 times as many wheel sets as RC cars. I should line them up one day and take a photo. Itâs that bad
Same here mate, trying to guess wheel and tyre comboâs without actually been able to see them in the flesh and trial fitting them to various different vehicles before deciding what works and what doesnât. 
Just removed the flexidrive while waiting for a few more batteries to charge.
Very first time I have found water droplets inside the stuffing tube and actually beaded along the whole length of the shaft, so was DEFINITELY where the water inside the hull was coming from, and yet has been 100% waterproof the whole time Iâve had it using the INOX MX3.
Wiped off all the Marine Grease, flushed out the tube with INOX and resprayed the flex cable as I have been doing originally, with only a small dab of Marine Grease at the very end of the prop hub before sliding it back in.
Will be interesting to see if it suddenly stops getting water back through the tube again after this afternoonâs run.
OOTB Tool kit, using the little cable collet spanners is fine, but ainât trusting those little Drivers at all, waiting until I can get one of those INJORA kits before touching anything else!
After ALL the careful research regarding lubricants and their reactions to different plastics, such as the ABS Hull and Nylon lined stuffing tube in this boat, there was a big reason why I didnât use the Lithium Greases that are already in the toolbox.
Only just now look at the back of this âhighly recommendedâ Marine Grease to find out that its actually a LITHIUM based Grease 
Glad that I only used it once and have cleaned out the stuffing tube and wiped out the excess that managed to wick itself up the tube whilst dragging water with it into the hull. 
INOX only from hereinafter, possibly even their MX8 formula, as worn out stuffing tube linings and a brittle hull in a boat is definitely not something to be looking forward to! 
Mmm I agree some or nearly all kit supplied tools seem to be rejects thrown instead of the rubbish bin 
Nearly always scrabbling around for something that works and has some form of hardness about them. Besides cheese
Wow, youâve at least found the problem. Which is good. Trial and error youâll get it nutted out
Yeah⌠trial and error was against me in every single way this afternoon.
First run out in the boat, hit some chop and played Submarine for 20-30 seconds before reappearing on the surface again!
Luckily been practising the âAuto Rightingâ technique in the shallows since I first got it.
Typical NOOB UDIRC owner I lost the top hatch cover, even though I have this proper Marine Tape on orderâŚ
Iâve been impatient and been using my NITTO Vinyl Electrical Tape instead⌠which would appear not to be up to the task! 
Will hunt around for a replacement hatch and do my original thoughts about using not only the proper Marine Hatch Tape, but also connecting it to the Hull physically with a wire fishing line tracer lead. 
Anyrate, OVONICS 4S battery #2 decided to replicate its twin brother on only the 3rd use, so is also now out in the back yard with the other puffy pillow Twin.
Water now still getting inside the Hull, but not sure if from damage to the stuffing tube from running that Grease, or from the fact only have one top hatch cover now.
Dickhead me realised this afternoon that I still actually own TWO B6 Chargers, the Genuine SKYRC that Iâve been using, but also my Cheap Chinese Knockoff version!
Has been taking me hours every single day to get the 8 batteries charged, and then all night to get them back to a safe Balance Storage Charge after each afternoon on the Weir.
Gonna find my second charger to cut the time in half, but those OVONICS 4S Batteries have also seen my workload go from 8 batteries, to 7 and now 6! 
Not just dramas with the boat and batteries⌠also had half the fleet of RC Crawlers in the back for a bit of fun in between giving the Ducks a rest, but that didnât work out well either. 
The modded C-14 was going wellâŚ
Until it was behaving funny and looking a bit lopsided.
Brought out the White C-24 Hilux and was having fun until the rear tailshaft lock screw gave up and I didnât have a Phillips Head screwdriver with me to retighten it.
So the Red C-24 Hilux with the white canopy went fine until the battery ran flat, so then moved onto the MN-82 for a bit of fun. 
Which done okay bog standard, but those previously mentioned WPL C-64 good looking rims and tyres simply have no grip whatsoever.
Gonna leave them on there though, as they suit the look of the Cruiser so well, and will be planning to use it for towing the boat trailers rather than Rock Crawling anyrate.
Thatâs the trouble with those red alloy rims and tyres I got with the alu chassis kit, the rubber tyres are just too hard, slip everywhere and no flex in them. Might aswell glue on a WD 40 lid and turn it into a drift cruiser on cement
That sucks with those Ovonics batteries, Iâll be steering well clear of them in the future for sure.
Ah the tailshaft lockscrew, need that Injora driver kit, has a #2 phillips as well and neatly packs in to itâs own zipped case to throw in with you. USB C charged like your phone or just use it like an unpowered one. Good magnet so your bits donât fall out, sharp and hard enough tips for the job it seems. I wouldnât use it on the tractor though there not any screws that small on it. Has 4, 5 and 5.5mm sockets too. One to add to the RC kit.
Cheers mate, is DEFINITELY on my âmust aquireâ list, and no doubt have the ability to add extra drivers to the kit if needed to cover all the RC Vehicles and Boats as required. 
Yeah those box standard C-64 tyres are the same hard plastic type rubber, but they suit the Cruiser so well just gonna leave them on and hopefully they are good enough to put a boat trailer in the water!
Wonder if I can buy some right sized tyres for those alu kit supplied rims, as once I replace the screws that were doing my head in and got the correct driver bits I do like the look of them and offset is about right.
They are well made, just the screws are very soft compared to the Injora screws which are a different size again. 1.5mm hex for the alloy red rims. Hmm something to look in to more but I think from my initial searching I couldnât find the right ID to mount on the rim. Not sure, more research required.
Hmm thatâs the problem I ran in to before. Injora states their tyres only fit on their rims with no specification of the id in mmâs of the tyre seat diameter. Which I need to size up to get the right tyres to fit on the kit supplied rims. Which are no name brand so I can physically measure it up.
Hmm maybe even just buy some tyres to add to the collection
Iâll keep an eye out too mate, as Iâd love to be able to find some nice soft rubber for the âbeadedâ C-64 rims myself. 
Hmm that damn finger, ordered some 1.3". Canât find any definitive info, had a good look. Looks positive enough for me to give it a try anyway I thought. See what happens
Or more tyres to add to the ever growing pile amongst the sand paddle tyres for the Baja, the billet aluminium gold coloured rims for the Super Hot Shot and dozens more Few more wonât hurt.
No big loss anyway, I can always buy the 1.3" correct rims later to fit.
You got anything some pink Sunraysiaâs would suit @DocBob
Yeah can only really go off of what I have shown in pics of different vehicles and my advice, but Iâve been happy with them and at least is pretty much straightforward with INJORA gear when they say âthis tyre suits 1.3â rims" or â1.2â rims etc.
Yea I can see itâs a cross manufacturer compatibility thing to sort of corner the market type thing.
Finding a Company that actually has standards across all of their products takes out a lot of guesswork compared with trying to mix and match parts from various different sources⌠but Iâm sure that we are all VERY aware of this from the Gelbaster hobby anyrate!
For sure not only that even from the long gone automotive industry. Ford and Toyota standardized on a common 114.3mm pcd for wheel studs, GM said no they are doing 120.00mm pcd for their passenger cars. Yea no worries. Happens everywhere.
Yeah for sure!
Amazing to see INJORA manufacturing so many products that are completely compatible with each other across the board, whereas the opposite is true with competitors.
âOh you run one of our earlier ESCâs, Iâm sorry, but to be compatible with our new Motors you will now have to update to this latest model to run it.â
Happens across the board, same as Gelbaster manufacturers constantly changing specs to make sure that you HAVE to keep spending money on their proprietary parts and systems instead of simply making everything compatible with everything else.
Yeep and why I farm with a tractor made in Australia in 1978 At least I donât have to wait 2 weeks for a technition to come out and reset some fault code on a quarter million dollar tractor that does the same damn thing. Actually mine be doing more as itâs running all that time
