Well that was an expensive day on the water, with 2 brand new batteries now cooked, losing the hatch and having to invest a couple of hundred dollars in some hopefully decent replacement batteries and parts… will definitely be securing the new top hach better and possibly purchasing some different props to try out on this UDIRC 022 TYLOSAURUS, but at least all those parts will also work on my second UDIRC 005 ARROW Speedboat as well.
Wasn’t too concerned about the aesthetics of losing the smoke/clear top hatch, but it does provide a second layer of waterproofing and the shape is also designed to assist with the self righting function… and after submarining it TWICE today about 150 metres offshore, I do think that it’s definitely important to have a new one refitted rather than losing the whole Boat!
Looking the goods, tight fit. They won’t be rolling off the rim in a hurry.
Got some longer screws to pull the halves together evenly, then I was in business.
Try them without foams to start with as it’s not a fast basher truck see how they go. They might not stand up but I can whack the foams in if so. After a bit of belly and flex in those tyres.
I was impressed with them in your first pics still in their packaging!
Definitely great quality and good looking gear for the price compared to what we would have had to pay for such Rims/Tyres back in the old days.
Really interesting video that only confirms my prior comments, along with the reasons why I always measure Ohm resistance in all my batteries from brand new, only charge at half C ratings, always storage charge and have my chargers set to 2.1V per cell.
The rims, yes the machining and dimensions are faultless, screws seem to be stainless as don’t stick to a magnet. Don’t need to be cranked to 80ft/lbs anyway The Injora driver made short work of the many.
I’ll have to watch that battery vid. I’ve always stuck to 1P charging and mostly balance. ie if it’s a 3300Mah lipo set the max charge amps to 3.3amps.
Some come 2p rated so can charge that one at 6.6A technically but I don’t bother. Not in that much of a hurry while I get everything else organised. Don’t leave fully charged Lipo’s for more than 24hrs, bring up or down to storage charge of 3.8v per cell.
Not following the charger set of 2.1V per cell perhaps you could elaborate when you get time.
Same with different Gelblaster models, I’m doing the same with these RC Speedboats, acquiring the “classics” in each ends of the scale and looking to keep one stock and modify the other.
This is the most expensive of the lot being a “proper” Outboard Prop Drive, but that’s why it’s waited to be ordered as the last hurrah to the Hobby collection.
They are pretty old now, which makes them very difficult to find, and the prices reflect their rarity.
Plenty of internal space to modify with the box full of aftermarket ESC’s and Outrunner Performance Brushless Motors that I’ve already got stashed away for such projects.
I still LOVE the old 1980’s Balsa Wood outboard powered model that I had as a teenager, but that’s been shelved as a Display Piece, despite my original intentions, it simply cannot withstand the stresses of modern drivetrains to stay in one piece on the water.
But am extremely happy that I have been able to find a couple of modern versions of these Classic “Outboard” Speedboats to be able to safely enjoy instead.
Cheers mate, yeah I don’t blame ya!
It’s been my little getaway spot for decades and is only just on the top edge of town in the hills, so quick and easy to get to, even on my pushbike!
That’s what I’m worried about when my sister and I do our lap of Australia hopefully this year, might get to QLD and not wanna come back!
I had a thought surely they must have RC boats that have similar 2 stroke 30cc motors similar to my Baja, did a bit of a search and yep sure enough. I was like hot damn! Oh O hahaha
Earlier original model of the Speedboat that I already have, was hoping that it did have the older basic simple uncluttered "Gen8 Style " running gear as advertised that I pictured above previously … but unfortunately they have retrofitted the latest modern “V2 style” updated internals into these older models.
Definitely a “Win” for the average punters getting the very latest running gear in such an old model, but as an experienced custom builder chasing the more basic open plan parts to be able to remove and modify… it wasn’t what I was hoping for.
So now gotta change plans again, as there’s technically no difference between modifying this one over my original latest model Speedboat in terms of design simplicity.
Would make sense to modify the most modern version, as at least everything hanging off the Transom is Alloy and Stainless, whereas these early models are mostly Nylon and plastic, albeit much better improved design than what originally advertised as.
Won’t touch anything until I can give it a few runs on the water, but the biggest difference is that these older models are 3S capable only, whereas the new version is 3S-4S capable out of the box.
Already have higher KV Brushless Outrunner motors and a few different ESC’s in the parts pile that are up to 150A 3-6S compatible… so will just experiment and see what bits end up getting fitted to what!
At least have the Factory aftermarket support to be able to purchase and fit the latest model Alloy and Stainless parts to this older Plastic/Nylon equipped Speedboat if needed.
And I did not link that twin 350A ESC I saw, only the twin 2 stroke. I was only looking anyway and didn’t wan’t to hurt your shoulder to much by going oi oi we need this, I want one far out… killer beans
wtf I’m a long way from there. 
