33V @ 120A = 100 kilometres an hour + small wave = high speed Submarine = water and electricity donât mix = LUCAS smoke gets let out in a BIG way!
At least being 10 metres underwater at the time, it didnât burn a big hole through the Hull!
This is old damage, but just getting around to planning whatâs required for the rebuild seeing as Iâm getting back into the TYLOSAURUS custom build and having a little break from the Aircraft.
(Until the next ones arrive.)
The FW190 is to partner with the British adversaries in the collection, just as the ZERO partners with the F4U CORSAIR.
Unfortunately the BF109 Messerschmittâs are now extinct in the 1100mm size.
BTW @BME ⌠had to dig out the Speedboats to get through to a pile of boxes looking for those MP5 folding stocks!
Must be In the storage unit as not in the odd few boxes in the spare room.
Got quite a few flights in but had to retire the HUSKY early in the afternoon.
Was wondering why it was handling like a Jellyfish halfway through the 2nd flight and having trouble with coordinating turns and getting it wings level for landings.
Wasnât until the 3rd flight I threw in a fresh battery and did the usual control surface checks before takeoff that I discovered that the Right Aileron Sevo had given up the ghost.
Back at home and now obviously have some tinkering ahead to test or start replacing all of the Servos with my new metal geared waterproof units.
Had to dismantle all of my beautiful tidy wiring to access the leads required to run the Servo Tester, and somehow the bastard started working again!
In my opinion, not politically incorrect at all, Doc.
As you said, itâs historically correct if you repaint Biggles to look more Japanese, and Rising Sun hachimaki are an undeniable part of that era in history.
Plug/wiring kit to enable making tidy custom length Servo leads to delete the loop piles and mess with leads that are simply too long for their purpose.
I did my best cable management with the extra lead lengths so far, but being able to cut them to length to plug directly into their relative positions will be the proper way to finish off the wiring.
(still gotta clean up all that aluminium swarf!)
Unfortunately the side effects of adding Floats and Steel Frames to what are essentially ground Aircraft wreaks havoc with weight CG and trimming flight characteristics, so having these Gyros are pretty much essential to achieve safe and stable flight whilst trialling out different mechanical trim settings.
Run it up to full throttle on 4S with only the Flybar paddles fitted, and despite only originally designed for 3S, was able to adjust the Tail Rotor trim to perfection ⌠but found out that the new Tail Gyro is a piece of shit, so will remove, rewire and fly without one.
Got the F4U CORSAIR back on the clothes hoist âworkbenchâ as the Motor mount was flopping around like a cock in a sock even though itâs brand new and has only made a few ground loop tests to ensure all the electronics and controls were working as designed and has NEVER left the ground now nor in the immediate future until Iâm 100% confident that everything is as solid as I can possibly perfect.
Now have to make some bracing to align the motor plate firmly in place.
Can see here where the factory loose motor mount has driven the prop axle into the front radial engine cover plate and chewed it out.
Again, this hasnât even left the ground yet, only taxied around whilst checking out my controls after the initial build.
This is why I am so pedantic on spending weeks on setting up and testing Aircraft before I even think about taking them into the air due to the amount of factory inbuilt faults that are guaranteed to keep every new owner crashing and having to order a heap of new parts that shouldnât be necessary if they were designed and built properly in the first place.
Cheers mate, and yes, I have the Gelbaster Industry to thank for teaching me patience and low expectations to the point where nothing surprises me any more!
Forgotten how much work goes into these damned things.
Every single part needing cutting, trimming, sanding, test fitting and trimming/sanding again just to get shit to fit together and functioning properly.
All good when you are retired and have nothing else to do, but Iâm working on a deadline goddammit!
Plenty of painting today and on the home run having the main engine together, now just a few more hours work adding the final auxiliary parts and finer details.
Was pretty wobbly on the provided plastic Engine Stand that was only held together by glue, and the motor only sat on top which caused it to rock and roll all over the place.
I ended up solid mounting the engine to the frame, then made the executive decision to make up a sturdy base plate to fix it all to something more solid and adding a bit more weight.
Big chunk of Marine Ply did the job nicely, then added some old Brass Handles for the finishing touch to make it easier for him to move it around safely.
Now it doesnât move a millimetre when cranking the Engine and canât fall over or get damaged as easily.
It also has exhaust manifolds, but I left them off as they basically covered up the sides of the engine block and heads, which sort of defeats the whole purpose of being able to see inside the engine!
I caved in and fitted one exhaust manifold to the right side of the engine, mainly to add some protection for the Dipstick that was hanging out in the breeze, but also gives a more finished look on that side whilst keeping the other bank open for viewing.
Happy that I didnât paint the Engine Stand Red/Orange like they have in the Instructions.
Now mounted to the black marine ply with the brass handles added, it all blends in seamlessly and leaves the Engine to shine as the main show piece on its own.
