from memory, they weren’t great performers…
Big ole gells, will have less fps than the smaller, lighter stuff…
But, like yourself, I got mine for purely aesthetic reasons.
They were pretty cheap too, from memory…
Challenge thrown down…convert it to CO2 bulb/ green gas conversion…!!
Give it a few herbs…!! 
Why, when you can just buy one that runs on green gas… 
Nah, like you, cosmetic only. In fact, seeing as how I ended up with two, one’s got the screwholes filled, new end cap, been painted and has half a squash ball up the spout to replicate a grenade ( sort of ). Can still be cocked and fired and can be made fully functional with minimal work, but seeing as how it’s hanging off a JM SCAR V2, doesn’t really matter. 
Greetings to all,ive what i hope is a simple yes no question yet i ve a feeling its a very oversized can of worms…and gears!
Ok:
If i take a standard v2 metal reciever on its own can i by rights buy any brand v2 gearbox and drop it straight in and she will purrr like an old 186 in a prem?
Yes for the most part. More so matching up right nozzle and t piece.
What he said 
Some receivers may need dremel clearing in places too… I seem to remember putting a MK V2 box into a Well CQB and had to dremel the part of the receiver around the mag terminal plate.
Just moved to avoid cluttered threads.
A v2 receiver will fit a v2 gearbox, except when it doesn’t… because gelball things. Some gearboxes are different enough to provide delightful requirement of filing and dremeling or the receiver. Also the mags and piece nozzle choice may require some filing of the receiver too.
The short version is, anything will fit with the right amount of filing and dremeling.
I’m trying to install some SHS gears in a P90 gearbox and I can’t figure out what to do.
The bevel gear is mashing on the pinion gear even though I have set it as high as possible without making the gear too tight. What do I do in this situation? It’s so annoying when dealing with gearboxes that are just too tight.
You will have to slim the upper bush down or likewise the back of the bevel
Just a shs gear width thing, you may be able to get it by running a bearing in that one position but depends on height👍
I do have some spare bearings lying around so hopefully those will work. Would shaving the bush down be as simple as rubbing it on sandpaper? I don’t have much in the way of tools
I’ve done it that way before… slow and tedious but you’ll get there.
Just make sure you keep the bush face square to the bore.
Slimmer bushes are available too, on ebay I believe.
As said it will take a while to skim the bush down manually.
Keep forgetting not everyone has a lathe:sweat_smile:
Sometimes, the crown gear section of the bevel can be thicker, doing my double bell AK last week which also had almost no room, I had to use low profile bushes, and I couldn’t use the bevel from a set of 16:1 gears I had as the teeth stood too tall to get a nice mesh with the pinion, but the 18:1 needed a 0.1 shim to sit nicely. Also chose a different pinion gear that was a bit better machined and had more profile to the teeth and space.
I have also bored the bushing holes to sit deeper, though this can come at cost of flexability of the gearbox shell in nylon boxes. I have also seen people bore out to accept 8mm bushes, and thus removing the “ring” around the bush that keeps it too high. Again, everything is a compromise! Alot of older nylon boxes had this issue with the spur gear.
And yes, I too have shaved the bush to be slimmer a few times, tedious af task. But its all gelball things we do!
The funny thing is I actually have a lathe, but it hasn’t worked in years. It’s sandin’ time
I’ve knocked them back with the careful use of a Dremel grinder with a small cut off wheel before too.
There’s always a way
Dremel’s have been the main source of so many Australian back shed inventions for decades I’m sure! 
I am about to upgrade my SRB400 internals such as the gears, piston, piston head and spring. I read that upgrading the air nozzle will increase the fps of this blaster a lot because the stock air nozzle doesn’t have any o rings inside of it. I also heard that some people glue their cylinder head with epoxy and was thinking maybe I could glue the stock air nozzle to improve the seal. What are your guys’ thoughts on gluing the cylinder head and gluing the air nozzle to it? I also found this air nozzle on aliexpress and am wondering if it will work for the srb400. It’s the blue 24.2mm one. Thanks for all the help! https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805667692808.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.1000014.13.728c7241sLZwwM&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.18499.332340.0&scm_id=1007.18499.332340.0&scm-url=1007.18499.332340.0&pvid=35951244-2b37-4c6e-8b24-5ecf113c5ae8&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18499.332340.0,pvid:35951244-2b37-4c6e-8b24-5ecf113c5ae8,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238113%231998&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!1.99!1.99!!!1.99!1.99!%402103200617070004918653837ebcae!12000034583666924!rec!US!2971043704!AB
Welcome mate. Many of us here are Australian, and in our market we just don’t have these as we have access to more replica styles, with basically cheaper low to mid tier airsoft gearboxes with changes to suit gel.
I am not familiar with the SRB400 at all, though I have seen (and tried it once myself) and I can’t recommend glue/epoxy on the cylinder head. You are better off changing the oring on the cylinder head to one slightly larger with a tight fit.
People also use plumbers tape, don’t just wrap the cylinder head and oring, take the oring off, then wrap and put the oring over the top. But I don’t recommend plumbers tape, in a gel blaster, for anything, ever.
Not sure what you mean by gluing nozzle to cylinder head… but Do NOT glue the nozzle to the cylinder head. It needs to move to feed gels. Unless you want to muzzle load like an old musket it is not what you want to do at all!
Provided an aftermaket nozzle fits the cylinder head, is the right length, it will be better, and then you can carefully remove the stock nozzle tip, and glue it to the aftermarket one. I have no idea what sort of gearbox or nozzle system these use, kinda looks like an old wells polycarbonate G36 v3 style with a proprietary nozzle. Good luck finding an aftermarket one, as wells use a nozzle diameter in between airsoft and gel “standards” (or total lack of!) The tappet plate won’t fit a 8mm gel style nozzle, or a 6mm airsoft style nozzle… its a wells style and thats it.
TBH, reddit has a lot of posts on SRB400, I would have a gander over there.
This 100%
Welcome to the group. 
DO NOT glue the nozzle to the t piece. The result would be catastrophic for your blaster.
The nozzle moves back and forth on the cylinder head to allow gels into the t piece when retracted and to seal against the gel when forward… all driven by the sector gear and spring loaded tappet plate. Fixing it in place by any method would cause damage to your gearbox by breaking the tappet plate, shredding your gears or worse case senario igniting your lipo and blaster when it jams.
It happens
As @RokSolid says, glueing the cylinder head in place should also be unnecessary. The o-ring and the gearbox shell do all the heavy lifting with sealing that item. You may also want to change that head one day.
Thank you guys so much this is great to know as I am quite new to gel blasters and airsoft
