@DocBob I get they wont ever be terribly accurate, not by any measure. Assuming porting, seals, gel fit, ect are correct if we can expect a change. Very general question.
My preferred weapon is a measly 100mm barrel, and its fairly accurate for the girls I go out with. If I can add I few cm and likely blow my shot better, I would. Its a fair trade off any guy would take, right?
Just donāt blow it to early 
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Yes adding a few cm to a 100mm barrel will work better.
Yeah, a 100mm barrel is going to take a little bit of work to try and improve accuracy unfortunately 
That length doesnāt give the gels much time to āsettleā within the barrel before being rapidly expelled out into the open air.
Thereās all sorts of forces at play upon the poor innocent gels once they are fed into the T-piece, jammed up into the barrel and hit with quite a large force of high pressure air up their arse! 
They will deform out of shape initially and push up hard against the ID of the barrel, making a 100% seal if you get your barrel/gel size combination right.
Then as they accelerate along the barrel, the pressure upon them drops and they tend to revert back into more of a round shape, allowing the air to hopefully start moving around and past the gel, which hopefully centres the gel within the barrel if the air passing around it is even around all sides.
This air pocket also stops the gels from rubbing along one particular surface of the inner barrel, which causes friction that can make the gels start āspinningā within the barrel ā¦ā¦ which causes the gels to exit the barrel already turning off in a completely different direction
Longer barrels tend to give the gels much more time to deform/reform and then centre themselves in the air pocket than short barrelsā¦ā¦ where the gels can be ejected into the air flight whilst they are still deformed from being fired.
Thereās still plenty of things like FPS, ROF, Gel size and hardness that also come into playā¦.but they are all a whole other book just in themselves!
I tended to stick with 300-350 7.5mm barrels as the best all round performers when matched up with the right gearbox built to suit.
Donāt know whyā¦ā¦ but thatās what I found worked out for me in regards to accuracy and no feeding issues.
I also spent much time and research regarding muzzle brake designs and how they effect the āprojectileā as it leaves the barrel and enters a different āstillā air environment, yet still trying to deal with the massive force of air behind and around it.
This is why sometimes hop-ups make accuracy worse in some designs, and yet work well in others.
Where the inner barrel ends inside the outer barrel is also not a good design.
Yet correct inner/outer barrel length combined with well designed muzzle breaks can work miracles for accuracy, along with getting everything else right as mentioned at the start of my ramblings.
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Ty @DocBob that was the type of information I was looking for. I can wrap my head around that idea.
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anyone know what the name for the motor connectors are Iām replacing the wiring in my wells
Iām guessing it the female spade connector but I wanted to double check
thanks
Yeah spade connectors are what youād be looking for 
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Taken from a facebook group. In the post, he stated expect losses in the 3-5% range.
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Are you sure that chart is based off gel blaster information?, because in the a/s world the āmā rating is how fast you can expect it to shoot in m/s out of a 6mm barrel but because we used 7.3-5mm barrels it should shoot slower because more volume and whatever or is it too insignificant to matter?
I wish ssrotel was here because he had experience with this, but in an arp9 with an ldx expert and an ldt tpiece, which cylinder head should I use? apache is giving me el big aids
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A/s is usually operating at higher v/e than us too, so Iād be expecting everything to remain within a relatively close margin.
I was getting the 3% results on a m90 back when Iād use them
From many of my old previous buildsā¦ā¦ the numbers are looking quite on point right through to the M120 spring FPS expected results at the various percentages, but from there, they seem to start seeming to stray away from what is possible in a gel blaster.
I had built SSG blasters with good quality gearbox internals which ran M150 and above springs, but they definitely didnāt get anywhere further than 430-450 FPS no matter what barrel sizes were used or fitting even higher rated springsā¦ā¦ that just seemed like the end point for any SSG AEG Blaster could physically produce, no matter what parts could be fitted.
There may be others here that were able to do betterā¦ā¦ but I certainly havenāt ever seen anything get above those results? 
At any point, 280-300 is the most ideal and accurate FPS that any blaster performs best at anyways, so more than that it really just a waste of time and money 
iirc he used a wells head, but that may be very wrong, only going on what I remember and then that might have been for something else he had. Another downfall for what happenedā¦
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Yeah I think that was the one thanks
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Was taken from a gelsoft facebook group. There was the impression the poster created the chart.
If it is accurate, its a decent tool for us less experienced folk to estimate seal efficiency.
Does anyone remember witch gen 8s had semi auto
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M4SS, mosfet/switch driven?
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Yup, was actually the very last model M4A1 V8 full nylon receiver/gearbox Gen8ās that actually had a functional semi auto selector switch.
I had all the earlier model JinMing blasters with ABS Plastic that had only the safe/full auto useless selectors, but the V8 model actually functioned as intended
The STD HK 416 and M4SS were way ahead of their time and were the very first Blasters to be fitted with fully functional mag priming and MOSFET controlled FCUās 
Hence STD were my favourite manufacturers for many years.
If you can find an old M4A1 V8 Gen8, you will get a fully functional safe/semi/auto fire selector 
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Thanks for the help Bob!