Keeps jamming. fired 4 mags worth and could only count on one hand gels that made it more than 5 meters. Most broke in the mag lips.
Honestly a disappointment.
I’ll make some fresh harder gels and try again.
I am new to this and have a p226 what does that do? where did you get the grips from?Are there any other upgrades you can suggest, all advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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The suppressor is purely aesthetic. If anything, it stops the slide from cycling properly, and the grips I got off eBay. About 110 inc. shipping from Europe.
As for upgrades, it’s one of the better pistols I’ve used, and isn’t really in need of any, but a hop up and a polished barrel would go a long way
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Thanks, where would I get a hop up and polished barrel, I thought it came with a built in hop up but as I’m new to this I’m still trying to suss it out
The easiest way to secure parts is to ask the company that supplied you this blaster.
They should have the knowledge and parts available to suit this rifle, or if not, you can research/google any compatible accessories as long as you specify this exact model in your search bar 
Sorry to maybe shoot down your enthusiasm, but this is still a Gelblaster, not Airsoft……. So the expectations of decent accuracy are not guaranteed and will only be best achieved by trial and error with your own particular rifle.
There should be information available out there in the wild wild web where others have found the best specific parts to upgrade these particular rifles, whereas the information available here relies upon the rest of us to actually own one of these and have had the knowledge/skills to find the best parts to improve their performance.
Just bought a 2nd hand double bell m203, factory tan/brown but painted black.
Being 2nd hand I feel it’s a perfect candidate for some tinkering. I did add a seperate post the other day requesting some input from the forum on this blaster.
@Grubfac3 has already raised the limited throw of the firing mechanism which will be one of the things I’m planning on looking to mod and will post about once I pull it apart and see what I can do. Also contemplating cutting it back to a shorter version and a new paint job.
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Nice work mate, will be interested to see the final results
Sometimes can be difficult asking for advice with particular model blaster when others here don’t own one or have modified them in a similar manner.
Luckily for us, blasters are still pretty much all the same in the way they are designed and operated……so normally whatever works best with different modified parts for one model normally translates across the board 
The Holy Headache 
I’ll take a Singularly Box anytime thanks! 
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What is it? The insides of a cordless drill? 
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Not gel ball related, but picked this up yesterday. Was intending to get one of them ge gbbrs, but this popped up and couldnt say no.
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Absolutely beautiful! 
Guitar ain’t bad either!
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Upgraded to a laylax high torque motor and a leviathan V2 optical MOSFET… But now my mags won’t feed and the grip heats up so fast. Help what do I do
I take it that you have a Gelblaster Leviathan with the electric mag feed wires hooked up?
What size battery are you running, assuming everything else is in good order, it’s possible that excess heat could be from a battery struggling to provide enough output for your upgrades 
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Have you gone into the levi settings and set the external output to motor?
what are your gears/springs and has the gearbox been shimmed?
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the hell why isnt that default ill give that a go tomorrow and see the effects. but i did spend hours shimming the box as perfect as i could so that the gears were smooth but not loose.
its the gel ball specific version with the terminals hooked up and the battery is a 11v that fits in the buffer tube (probably 1200mah). dont have it with me at the moment. but its weird that the upgraded motor gets so hot with a stock spring.
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Could be the battery…… but sounds like something else isn’t right if you are getting issues with a stock standard spring
What gears, and spring are you using? What rps is it doing?
Also, try turning active brake as low as possible, or off. Active braking heats motors much more significantly and punishes your motors brushes and commutator.
Generally, if you have a setup that doesn’t double tap on semi, you don’t need much, or any active brake.
If you have precocking up high enough that you need active brake to prevent double tapping, the amp draw required when firing will be greater, also leading to more heating, and if up high enough that you need alot of active brake, the heat up effect will be more significant.
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I know ze personally, stock hk416 spring no clue what it would be rated at, 16:1 shs gears, and a 1000mah 11.1v battery doing around the high 20’s for rps is the setup right now, at one point the ab was at 100% but told him to turn that down pretty quick. from memory, it’s at about 20% (?) any lower than that and starts overspinning if you are too fast on the trigger.
oh and no precocking either
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