That’s where I always recommended jamming one of these little puppies into the stock where possible.
Always scared the crap outta the kids when it starts screeching like a Banshee in their ears when the batteries reached the preset LVC! 
For sure they are cheap too. Also run on some of my RC stuff that doesn’t have LVC ESC/Mosfet/Etu or what ever it is plus you can see the individual cell voltage so you don’t drop the LIPO too low. 
Mr multimeter tells me all of these are binworthy. 
Showing less than 1.5v on the cells and being 2S that ain’t good. Can’t hook them up to the Skymax B6 either, keep getting balance errors.
Shame because the two non-chequered lipos are half decent. Ah well… glad I didn’t just rush in and start soldering XT30s on them.
the checkered ones look like 21700’s cut them open and try them individually
The easiest way to revive old LiPo batteries is to make an adaptor cable and plugs to allow to connect a good LiPo directly to the dead LiPo through the output leads of each battery.
The good LiPo will dump voltage directly into the cells of the dead LiPo to “wake them up” enough for your balance charger to detect the cells and not throw fault codes.
Just be cautious as always, double check your polarities and only connect the two batteries for 30-60 seconds at a time, then test the dud battery on the charger between runs until it is good enough for the charger to recognise.
… Or just buy new batteries. 
Then what, be a factory and replace the dead cell.
Na fkit just get a new one and look after them 
Depends how much time you have to fiddle around.
The checkered batteries are recycled used ones from China anyway and don’t have much life in them why they fail. Already used!
They’ll be going in the bin for sure. 
I don’t feck around with lipos.
Not a recent purchase, quite the opposite.
Haven’t used the torch on this, for a very long time…
It runs off 2 x cr123a batts (6v).
Not quite as many lumens, as the 1300 lumen wesker…but its still pretty good.
Its the “really bright white dot in the centre” type…
The trees are about 20+m away…still a good beam.
At around 70-80m you lose the peripheral light, but the white central dot is still pretty good, but not overly huge…
They make some pretty cool rechargeable batteries on ebay.
These ones have a built in usb-c charger slot in the battery…
Lets see how they go.
The annoying thing about the torch, is it is the momentary touch on type…
You need to hold down the switch, to keep it on…
Also, it has a flash function on the rear half of the switch.
The 1300 lumen wesker is my preferred torch / laser…
1 Like
Absolutely the best switching method for a rifle mounted torch.
If possible I convert all of my pic mounted tac torches to momentary… providing I can reach the switch easily that is.
I understand why they make it so.
However, this is a 2 selection switch bar.
Just saying…they could have made it 3…
And, some parts require more / less pressure than others.
But, its gel.
Real ones are much better, im sure…
Looking to sell my current 3d printer in favour of different printer.
1 Like
Package from @AKgelblaster today.
Some 5.56 Rx ak mags, solink brushless motor and some slim hopups.
as close to the 5.45 mags as we get in gel land for the APS and DB AKs.
And they look much more right than the curved 7.62 mags.
Hopefully I can get one of these slim hopups in the original booster and ditch the suppressor.
4 Likes
Pity that fella isn’t around that was 3d printing AK booster with integrated hop up that is on my APS AK. They work great too.
X-Force have the cheap-arse lever action Winchester 1894 gel blasters back in stock… one on the way. Good times.
Been wanting to do up a Western display for ages, give the tactical military stuff a break.
That Winchester will sit well with the Colt Peacemaker and gunbelt, lever action 1887 shottie, Bowie knife and tomahawks.
bit of an impulse purchase
APS on top
Double bell 021 on the bottom
first impression is a bit eh
the dust cover wont stay on. the sight block is supposed to hold it in at the front but it has some play so it literally just falls off.
the fire selector is mushy compared to the aps. i cant tell if im in semi or auto unless i look.
lots of rivets and not many screws so im not sure how it comes apart
also bought from WAT and heard they dont like to honor ACL so i think ill keep it together and field it at least once to see if it explodes.
im liking the CTR a lot more than the M4 style stock tho
side mount and RK3 in the mail
performance out of the box is decent and shoots a lot straighter than the aps
the stock is riveted on so the quick change spring still requires an entire teardown so easy swaps arent a thing.
a bit less well thought out overall vs the APS i think.
Both brands make a good ak. I think I prefer the aps, but double bells are still solid, little bit “looser” but you can put em together well.
Aks aren’t too hard to put apart once you’ve done one. This might help, pretty similar.
If you are pulling it down, grab a full cylinder 
But other than being massively under volume the seals and shimming are usually pretty good.