Ok…
1: PARTS FROM OVERSEAS.
You can get all sorts of parts from Kyairsoft, in Hong Kong. Go to their website, look at Parts,…WE pistols…Biohazard / M9 series.
You have to look at exploded view, and order the parts via part number. Gen2 biohazard shows you everything, and #79/80 is the left and right standard grips.
You can get all the other bits to spec up a Burton as well…moderator, rail, mag extender etc.
You DONT need a b709 for these parts, but final discretion is at border forces disposal. Smaller parcels are easier to accomodate.
Anyway, the grips go straight on, and thats that.
Gen 1 Biohazard, has All black STARS grips as well…
2: BARREL TO CHROME.
Remove the black paint, and primer underneath, to get to shiny metal.
First, remove the barrel and use thinners / paint remover to get rid of the black paint, rinsing frequently. You will get to a yellowish primer underneath, which is harder to remove. I used wet/dry sandpaper 600 grit then 1200 grit.
Do it under a running tap, it takes awhile. Try to avoid circular rubbing, best to aim for " lengthwise strokes" up and down the barrel. 600 to remove, 1200 to smoothen.
Then about 10 mins or so of metal polishing, with a good quality metal polish. Keep going until it gleams. Scratching is unavoidable, but you can always go back with 1200 sandpaper to smoothen again, if required.
When it gets its gleam on, it stays like that for a very long time before tarnishing. If it does, just metal polish again. The final result looks good, with scratches only visible if you look REALLY closely.
The final result is better than a painted silver DB barrel : the silver painted ones scratch their barrel, and colour change easily…
3: THE MAG FIX.
Bloody DB mags. Most leak from the bottom, due to a circular o-ring, going onto a rectangular base slot. It can leak past the seal, and out of the retention pins.
SOLUTION : Coat o-ring with 5 min epoxy, for permanent sealing.
A bit nerve wracking the first time you do it, the troublesome step is getting the retention pins aligned and back in properly, before the epoxy sets.
Definitely do some “dry practise runs” first.
So…
A: knock out the 2 retention pins from base. Take note of which pin goes where, and direction of removal / reinsertion.
B: Remove O-ring, and clean up o-ring, base, and inside of the magazine area.
C: ready everything for timely re-assembly.
-place o-ring back on its rectangle base , fully dry
-Mix up 5 min epoxy ( it goes off quick in the heat)
-Apply a layer of epoxy, all around the outside of the o-ring. Enough for a good coating, but not too thick.
-Put base back into magazine, align and get pins in. Sometimes this is easier with two people.
-You can put some epoxy over the outside of the pins, to cover the pins and seal them as well.
-Let it set for 24 hrs…no gas filling.
All going well, this should fix the leaks.
You wont need to pull it apart again , but can if you have to ( 5 min epoxy never sets 100% rock hard). All going well, you wont need to.
The fill valve is not epoxied, and can still be screwed out.
Once again, this is @Friendly_Fire technique, and done right fixes these bloody leaky mags…!!
Or, just wait till TAC edge brings in more WE TECH mags, and grab a few…!!
Phew, what a mouthful.
Anyway, hope this helps for anyone wanting a RE blaster.
IF no more WE techs come in, this is the only way to get one…
Warning though…
If you want a Burton with its lower rail and moderator, they will NOT FIT onto a DB.
DB have a squared off frame, with slots for torches. Burton needs a rounded frame to fit. Thats why i had to get a Guarder frame, for my Gen1 Burton, and the wesker was KEle rounded lower frame as well.
(That’s the reason i have several beretta’s !! 
)
Enough from me for now…if anyone does anything, put up some pics to share…!!
